KorbenD
New member
Picked this machine up a couple of weeks ago. Doesn't need a ton of work (unlike the Marble Madness cabinet) but it still needs some minor wood repair.
The G05-801 had zero volts coming out of the regulator board. Started checking components and found that Q100 was open, and ZD100 was shorted. ZD101 also had a resistor tied in series with it for some reason. Went ahead and replaced both TO-3 transistors, both zener diodes, and all capacitors except for the two big filter caps (both tested good). I also replaced a 25A fuse with the proper 5A slow blow.
That got the 25v and -25v coming out of the board as needed. When power was applied, the fuse on the HV board blew instantly. Took the board out and found that the leads on capacitors weren't trimmed when they were installed by some previous owner. Clipped them, replaced the fuse and tested again. Got the spot killer light and ~12kv output from the flyback. Turned up the brightness and got a dot in the screen. Yay.
Also found a blown deflection fuse and replaced it. Tested the monitor in my BZ machine and it's working perfectly. No burn on the screen either, although it's filthy, haven't had a chance to clean it yet.
The cabinet had a crack on the left side by the marquee. There was also some dings and minor water damage on the bottom. I was hoping to save the side art, but decided finally to start over.
The inside edge of the crack was fixed by clamping the hell out of it to straighten it, then pouring wood hardener into the t-molding channel to set it in place. After drying for 24 hours, it was nice and sturdy. The outside edge was built up with bondo, as well as filling in the existing t-molding channel, then sanded flat.
The bottom had the rotted wood cut away with a razor, then sanded flat (do this BEFORE wood hardener, learned that the hard way on Marble Madness). Then hardener was applied in several coats and allowed to dry. Bondo filled in the missing edge and was sanded.
The side art was *barely* on the machine. The adhesive used completely dried out, so it all came off in about five minutes. I then sanded off all the old adhesive down to bare wood and filled in a few scratches and dings.
To do:
Repair back bottom edge and apply vinyl
Strip and repaint coin door
Repair right side
Send game PCB for repair
Order new side art, plexi bezel, cardboard bezel, control panel overlay, find good marquee
Repair fluorescent fixture
It'll be next month at the soonest before I can afford the repro stuff, so it's going to be cabinet and repair work only till then.
The G05-801 had zero volts coming out of the regulator board. Started checking components and found that Q100 was open, and ZD100 was shorted. ZD101 also had a resistor tied in series with it for some reason. Went ahead and replaced both TO-3 transistors, both zener diodes, and all capacitors except for the two big filter caps (both tested good). I also replaced a 25A fuse with the proper 5A slow blow.
That got the 25v and -25v coming out of the board as needed. When power was applied, the fuse on the HV board blew instantly. Took the board out and found that the leads on capacitors weren't trimmed when they were installed by some previous owner. Clipped them, replaced the fuse and tested again. Got the spot killer light and ~12kv output from the flyback. Turned up the brightness and got a dot in the screen. Yay.
Also found a blown deflection fuse and replaced it. Tested the monitor in my BZ machine and it's working perfectly. No burn on the screen either, although it's filthy, haven't had a chance to clean it yet.
The cabinet had a crack on the left side by the marquee. There was also some dings and minor water damage on the bottom. I was hoping to save the side art, but decided finally to start over.
The inside edge of the crack was fixed by clamping the hell out of it to straighten it, then pouring wood hardener into the t-molding channel to set it in place. After drying for 24 hours, it was nice and sturdy. The outside edge was built up with bondo, as well as filling in the existing t-molding channel, then sanded flat.
The bottom had the rotted wood cut away with a razor, then sanded flat (do this BEFORE wood hardener, learned that the hard way on Marble Madness). Then hardener was applied in several coats and allowed to dry. Bondo filled in the missing edge and was sanded.
The side art was *barely* on the machine. The adhesive used completely dried out, so it all came off in about five minutes. I then sanded off all the old adhesive down to bare wood and filled in a few scratches and dings.
To do:
Repair back bottom edge and apply vinyl
Strip and repaint coin door
Repair right side
Send game PCB for repair
Order new side art, plexi bezel, cardboard bezel, control panel overlay, find good marquee
Repair fluorescent fixture
It'll be next month at the soonest before I can afford the repro stuff, so it's going to be cabinet and repair work only till then.