Asteroids question- not deluxe

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I have a regular asteroids machine. I have no picture, but the game is playing blind.

What I have checked:

The spot killer is NOT lit.
I have neck glow.
I have 10.3vdc, 36vac, and 6.3vac out of the power supply.
I have 2.5vdc and 3.3vdc on the x and y video pins when in test mode.

This is my only vector game so Im unsure what next to try. Any ideas would be welcome.

Thanks!
 
And ... what about the high voltage? Does the monitor "crackle" when you turn it on? Can you feel static on the FRONT OF THE TUBE? (don't go near the HV anode if you don't know what you're doing) :eek:

(assumptions: you don't own a Scope nor a High-Voltage probe)
 
Do you have HV on the monitor? (Can you feel static on the front of the tube, if you can't measure it with an HV probe?)

Measure the AC and DC voltages on the XOUT and YOUT test points on the game board. Post all four values here (two AC and two DC values). The DC values you posted seem high.

Also, measure and post the values on the +15V and -15V test points on the game board.
 
I don't have a hv probe.


With the game in test mode.
If I measure the negative lead to the gnd point on the pcb.

Y-out on the pcb
2.5vac
.028vdc

X-out on the pcb
3.3vac
-.2vdc

Z-out
.8vac
1.7vdc


I don't see where to test for 15v, I only have a 5v on the game pcb.
 
Those values look ok, as those DC values are more in range, and the AC indicates you are getting valid XY signaling being sent to the deflection board. (Which is also supported by the fact that the spot killer LED is going out, but you can't always trust the spot killer, so it's best to measure the XY output voltages directly.)

The next most likely thing in that case is you have no HV. Usually if you hold your hand up against the front of the tube (without touching it), you can feel the static electricity, if the HV is there. Else in your case I'd guess you are probably feeling nothing.

Do you know what monitor you have? It'll be either a G05-801, G05-802, or 19v2000. Google pics of each to see which. You'll either need to start looking at the HV board/cage, or have it repaired. (FYI, I repair them. PM for details if interested.)
 
Those values look ok, as those DC values are more in range, and the AC indicates you are getting valid XY signaling being sent to the deflection board. (Which is also supported by the fact that the spot killer LED is going out, but you can't always trust the spot killer, so it's best to measure the XY output voltages directly.)



The next most likely thing in that case is you have no HV. Usually if you hold your hand up against the front of the tube (without touching it), you can feel the static electricity, if the HV is there. Else in your case I'd guess you are probably feeling nothing.



Do you know what monitor you have? It'll be either a G05-801, G05-802, or 19v2000. Google pics of each to see which. You'll either need to start looking at the HV board/cage, or have it repaired. (FYI, I repair them. PM for details if interested.)



G05-801

And when the monitor powers up I hear slight crackle and some chatter but no chatter after that.
 
You can try reflowing the solder on the pins for all of the connector headers on all of the boards, as maybe you can get lucky and it's something simple. You can also try a cap kit, which should be done anyway if one has never been done.

Beyond that you're going to need to get into deeper troubleshooting, or have them looked at.
 
If you remove the HV cage, be careful as you did hear "some crackle".
Do a visual inspection first. In particular look (but don't touch) the HV diode.

Might want to research best methods to discharge the tube.
 
If you remove the HV cage, be careful as you did hear "some crackle".
Do a visual inspection first. In particular look (but don't touch) the HV diode.

Might want to research best methods to discharge the tube.



I'll pickup an hv probe to discharge the crt and probably just have the board repaired if nothing looks obviously wrong
 
I'll pickup an hv probe to discharge the crt and probably just have the board repaired if nothing looks obviously wrong

I've always done the screwdriver method with the 10 resistors soldered together method (google it) and had no ill effects on both the asteroids I've owned. It'll cost ya $3 in resistors. And try what others have said first before you go sending the board out. You'd be amazed what re flowing headers and replacing caps does. It's cheap and fun!
 
I've always done the screwdriver method with the 10 resistors soldered together method (google it) and had no ill effects on both the asteroids I've owned. It'll cost ya $3 in resistors. And try what others have said first before you go sending the board out. You'd be amazed what re flowing headers and replacing caps does. It's cheap and fun!



I've done a few cap kits but never on a vector
 
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