asteroids-no sounds when shooting

[DarrenF]

Be careful citing IC locations on Asteroids. The locations are different, depending on the PCB dash-number. The black callouts apply to late revisions of -01 thru -04 PCBs, the red to -05 & -06 PCBs. That 555 was at 3 or 4 different locations over the entire run of Asteroids PCBs. The snap from a schematic posted only shows a couple of them.

As I mentioned in post #5, nine months ago, you need to determine your PCB's dash-number and perhaps revision letter in order to know which of the 7 printings of schematics will match your board. Then we can post the saucer sound section of it, and all be on the same page. I get the feeling the OPs PCB is an older type...

 

[tron guy]

Be careful citing IC locations on Asteroids. The locations are different, depending on the PCB dash-number. The black callouts apply to late revisions of -01 thru -04 PCBs, the red to -05 & -06 PCBs. That 555 was at 3 or 4 different locations over the entire run of Asteroids PCBs. The snap from a schematic posted only shows a couple of them.

As I mentioned in post #5, nine months ago, you need to determine your PCB's dash-number and perhaps revision letter in order to know which of the 7 printings of schematics will match your board. Then we can post the saucer sound section of it, and all be on the same page. I get the feeling the OPs PCB is an older type...

it's a -05 (hand written on the board) I assume they are all hand written in.

yeah I haven't looked at this game in a long time, until I tried to turn it on a couple of weeks back and had blown a fuse. I was looking through some manuals last night and saw that I have a schematic for asteroids. Guess I need to see what revision it is for.

 

[DarrenF]

Are the columns of ICs labeled (along the bottom edge) 1 thru 12, or 2 thru 13?

Is column 8 totally unpopulated (no chips in it)?

Is there a letter, likely either white or yellow, silkscreened in a corner of the PCB, perhaps inside of a square? A? B?

 

[tron guy]

Are the columns of ICs labeled (along the bottom edge) 1 thru 12, or 2 thru 13?

Is column 8 totally unpopulated (no chips in it)?

Is there a letter, likely either white or yellow, silkscreened in a corner of the PCB, perhaps inside of a square? A? B?

2-11 with a couple of ic's in column 12, a few in 13

column 8, totally unpopulated (yes)

letter B screened in yellow and white both. The yellow B has a 2 outside the box almost like saying B squared.

I can shoot a pic or two if this isn't enough info.

(thanks for your time by the way)

 

[DarrenF]

OK, you have -05 Rev B PCB. -05 (and -06) are covered by printings 6 and 7 of the schematics. Unfortunately, there is a discrepancy between them. Someone has already posted a shot from the 7th printing. Here's a shot of the same circuit from the 6th printing.

Does this (the red text) more closely match what you see on your board? Specifically: 555 @ M9, 4016 @ M10, LM324 @ L9?

Or does the one posted earlier (red text again) match better? That is: 555 @ L10?

 

[tron guy]

OK, you have -05 Rev B PCB. -05 (and -06) are covered by printings 6 and 7 of the schematics. Unfortunately, there is a discrepancy between them. Someone has already posted a shot from the 7th printing. Here's a shot of the same circuit from the 6th printing.

Does this (the red text) more closely match what you see on your board? Specifically: 555 @ M9, 4016 @ M10, LM324 @ L9?

Or does the one posted earlier (red text again) match better? That is: 555 @ L10?

had to get kids to bed, I"m going to check right now.

 

[tron guy]

OK, you have -05 Rev B PCB. -05 (and -06) are covered by printings 6 and 7 of the schematics. Unfortunately, there is a discrepancy between them. Someone has already posted a shot from the 7th printing. Here's a shot of the same circuit from the 6th printing.

Does this (the red text) more closely match what you see on your board? Specifically: 555 @ M9, 4016 @ M10, LM324 @ L9?

Or does the one posted earlier (red text again) match better? That is: 555 @ L10?

Mine is exactly like this:
555 @ M9, 4016 @ M10, LM324 @ L9

 

[douglasgb]

It will help to know if the saucer fire sounds are working. If it does, your +12v is fine.

(Note that the second posted portion of schematics is for the sauce firing section of the board.)

For the player ship:

Pin 9 of LS259 at M11 will go high when the player's ship is supposed to be making the fire sound. If you can put a logic tester on that pin while someone pushes the fire button, see if it does. Verify by checking pin 4 of 555 time at L10 for the same behavior. If they don't go high the LS259 maybe bad... you can force the sound to be produced by jumpering the pin to +5v (make sure you have the right pin!) to verify. If that makes the sound work it's the LS259.

If the pins do go high or you jump it and still get nothing, it's probably the 555 at L10. Check pin 3 for pulsing output when pin 4 is high (jumpered/button is pressed). No output = bad 555.

If you do have output on pin 3, check the diode at CR8, resistor at R66 (2.7K), cap at C48, and the resistor at R84 (100K).

 

[tron guy]

It will help to know if the saucer fire sounds are working. If it does, your +12v is fine.

(Note that the second posted portion of schematics is for the sauce firing section of the board.)

For the player ship:

Pin 9 of LS259 at M11 will go high when the player's ship is supposed to be making the fire sound. If you can put a logic tester on that pin while someone pushes the fire button, see if it does. Verify by checking pin 4 of 555 time at L10 for the same behavior. If they don't go high the LS259 maybe bad... you can force the sound to be produced by jumpering the pin to +5v (make sure you have the right pin!) to verify. If that makes the sound work it's the LS259.

If the pins do go high or you jump it and still get nothing, it's probably the 555 at L10. Check pin 3 for pulsing output when pin 4 is high (jumpered/button is pressed). No output = bad 555.

If you do have output on pin 3, check the diode at CR8, resistor at R66 (2.7K), cap at C48, and the resistor at R84 (100K).

I don't have any equipment to do this type of testing. All sounds are fine except the shooting sound. It just makes a blip in the speaker when firing.

 

[DarrenF]

I don't have any equipment to do this type of testing. All sounds are fine except the shooting sound. It just makes a blip in the speaker when firing.

Well, we're not going to pinpoint the problem w/o some sort of equipment (a scope or at least a logic probe). Just replace the 555 and we'll go from there. It's only 8 pins, easy to find, and reasonably likely to cause the symptom described. If that doesn't do it, next up would be the 4016 or maybe the tantalum caps.

 

[tron guy]

Well, we're not going to pinpoint the problem w/o some sort of equipment (a scope or at least a logic probe). Just replace the 555 and we'll go from there. It's only 8 pins, easy to find, and reasonably likely to cause the symptom described. If that doesn't do it, next up would be the 4016 or maybe the tantalum caps.

So Darren I am changing the 555 at which position? M9?

thanks gentlemen I appreciate the input.

 

[DarrenF]

Hold the soldering iron! I f'd up. I was apparenly confused between the SAUCER firing sound and the SHIP firing sound. (In my defense, those two circuits are almost identical). Ignore my post #25, that was for the saucer, which is not your issue.

The schematic in post #12 (RED ID callouts), or the one linked in post #5 (which is the same thing) should be applicable to your -05 board. So you should be looking for the 555 timer @ L10.

Sorry for the confusion...

 

[tron guy]

Hold the soldering iron! I f'd up. I was apparenly confused between the SAUCER firing sound and the SHIP firing sound. (In my defense, those two circuits are almost identical). Ignore my post #25, that was for the saucer, which is not your issue.

The schematic in post #12 (RED ID callouts), or the one linked in post #5 (which is the same thing) should be applicable to your -05 board. So you should be looking for the 555 timer @ L10.

Sorry for the confusion...

thanks pal, I wasn't confused, I appreciate all of your efforts in this thread. I will work on it tonight (hopefully) and report back.

 

[tron guy]

changed the 555 at L10, same exact issue.

Is there a handful of "known" parts I can shotgun and replace, without having to use a scope to analyze which one is good or bad?

thanks again guys

 

[duffer69]

check the lm324 @ L9 - I think you can piggyback those. Also check usbdesigntech.com for a lot of Asteroids info. - good luck