Asteroids Multi Kit Help Needed

Samelak

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I have the multi kit on my Asteroids so I can use the LL thruster. I am not able to configure the game while in test mode. When the game configuration window is accessed, pressing buttons kick me back to the test screen. Also, I am not getting the normal test screen with the grid pattern to adjust the picture. All I get while in service mode is a "OK" and a "S"…nothing else. When the cabinet is in game mode, I can cycle through the games and they "seem" fine.
 
I'd suspect an issue with the kit first. But you'd need another board to test it in (or another kit). I'd also just remove the kit and make sure you don't see the same behavior in stock test mode (which would suggest a game board issue). I'm not aware of any obvious issues (that I've seen anyway) that would cause that behavior.

Other things:

Make sure you have good 5V on the game board. Remember that Asteroids AR's read artificially high when measured on the AR with no game board plugged in. You should get about 6.2V on the AR's 5V test point with no load, which will come down to around 5V on the game board when it's plugged in. Ultimately you want to measure on the game board and set the AR pot so it's 5.00V, using the game board's 5V and GND test points.

Make sure you don't have any CP buttons (or coin switches, or the slam switch) stuck on. You could try just unplugging the whole CP, as the test switch will still work on the coin door.

Also, if this is a Braze kit, make sure you have an LS08 on the smaller kit daughterboard, not an ALS08. See this thread:


Also, you said in the OP, "so I can use the LL thruster". How are you doing that? Do you have douglasgb's A/D interface installed?


If so, that could be another variable. I'm not really familiar with it, but you could try removing it, and seeing if that makes any difference.
 
Testing the AR, all I can adjust to is 6.07 with no load and maxed on the dial, but did get the board adjusted to 5.07. The service screen did boot once to the cross hatch, but not again. I already disconnected the control panel…same results and I do have the interface. I'll try removing the multi board and reinstall the processor back in by itself.
 
Normally an Asteroids AR-I-01 should have diodes in place of the two 10-ohm sense resistors that are usually found on AR-II's (at R29 and 30). Those diodes are what push the voltage up to 6.2V with no load.

In the end, as long as you have 5.00V on the game board, that's all that matters. But I'm curious why you aren't able to set it to 6.2V with no load.

Any chance you can post a pic of your AR? (And is this one you got from me?)
 
I took the multi-kit out and was able to get the crosshatch while in service, but not sure if it was still completely working. When I pressed buttons, I would just get a chirping sound on all the buttons. Not sure if that is normal or not. No screen image changes when pushing buttons. Here is a screen shot of the service screen. As for the AR1, its original to the cabinet. Upon closer inspection, I see that a diode got really toasty…but still checking good. Not sure If should just go ahead and replace. I do have a rebuild kit.

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Test mode is working properly. There's only one screen on Asteroids (the crosshatch), and that's it. And you should hear a beep for every switch/button press. So that's normal.

Yes, that diode is toast. Someone (if not you) already replaced the caps and 2N3055 on that AR, but missed the obvious. Just replace that diode, and you should be able to get 6.2V with no load. Use a 1N4007. (though 4001 through 4006 will also work.) I wouldn't replace anything else, save your rebuild kit for a different AR.

As for the main issue, I'd say things are pointing to it being the kit. Unless there's a socket or some other connection issue with the board, but I'm not even sure how that would cause the behavior you're seeing.

The only way to be sure would be to put the kit on another board. Did you get the kit recently? If so, I'd contact whoever you bought it from. Worst case you could send it in, and I could test it for you.
 
I have working board in an Asteroids cocktail. Can I use that board in my upright to test?
 
Yep.

Asteroids boards are all functionally the same. There's a pin on the edge connector that is tied to ground by the harness in cocktails, which tells the CPU what type of cab it's in, so it knows to flip the image for cocktail mode or not.

That said, there are some very early Asteroids boards that lack the flipping circuitry. These were only shipped in uprights. Technically these will still function if you plug them into a cocktail, but they won't flip the image properly. However any board in a functioning cocktail will NOT be one of these, so it'll work fine in an upright. (So in your case, you're good.)

It won't apply in your case, but if you want to be able to identify these upright-only boards, see pics here:

 
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Replacing that crispy diode definitely helped with adjusting on the AR. Had no effect on the service screen issue. I need to pull my other PCB to check the kit
 
I have the multi kit on my Asteroids so I can use the LL thruster. I am not able to configure the game while in test mode. When the game configuration window is accessed, pressing buttons kick me back to the test screen.

Which buttons are you hitting to save the game configuration window? I fought with something similar with Brazes multi-kit when I installed mine (finally) in February. When I would use the "fire" button to try and save the configuration, it would just exit back out and not save the changes. I had to use the "hyperspace" button to get the multi-kit to save the game configuration changes.

I searched but couldn't find it documented anywhere that the hyperspace button was required to save the configuration changes, but that is what worked for me.
 
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