Asteroids issues

Reddogg

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Hey KLOVers, wondering if someone can help here...

I'm trying to get my Asteroids up and running. I've recapped the power supply, the audio/regulator board, and the 2 monitor boards (deflection and...brain fart), and also replaced the 2 x,y transistors.

I also just had the board repaired by fellow KLOVer road.runner, so the board is now good.
But, on power up, I get a flashing white dot on the monitor that only stops flashing when I hit the Hyperspace button. There is no sound, the game does not play blind, does not coin up, and my start buttons are NOT lit or flashing.

I've searched the internet as well as the KLOV forums for help, but I've yet to come across a similar situation, or even one where the start buttons don't blink or light.

Anyone have an idea?

Also, I get a clicking sound "in" the coin door on power up, and down. Is this normal?

Thanks as always!
 
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No it wasn't, but thanks for the suggestion! I had 3 bent pins I didn't know about in the harness. I fixed them and now the game is playing blind. :)

I've still got some issues though. The 2 player start button starts a game but does not light (= bad led on start button I believe), and the only thing on the screen now is 2 white dots side by side. And when I play it blind, the 2 dots have something moving back and forth between them (like Kit from Night Rider). I replaced the x,y transistors, but to my understanding, the symptom I have now is due to bad x,y transistors.

Can anyone confirm before I order new ones and try again?

KLOVers rock!
 
Stupid question but did you resolder all the molex headers and check all the fuses on the deflection board? ALmost sounds like the yoke isn't connected.
 
Yes, the header pins on the deflection board have all been re-soldered, and yes the fuses check out.

But still a spot killer.

Forgot to mention the monitor is a g05-801, and it's also getting bright neck glow.
 
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Make sure the wires from the transistors are properly seated and not maybe a pin off or something. Also check the plug to the yoke.

You can also check the x and y gain pots on the board...see if adjusting the y pot does anything.
 
The 'clicking' in the coin door is the lockout coils activating/deactivating. They prevent coins from being accepted when the game is turned off. But if you ask me, if you didnt know that the game was turned off before you put a quarter in, then you didnt deserve said quarter.
 
You said you replaced 2 xy transistors on the monitor. I believe there are a total of 4 monitor transistors.

No, I replaced all 4 transistors.

I've also tried playing with the monitor wires to see if there's a bad one while powered on, but nothing changes.

I've also checked the yoke, and I can't even budge it. It's on very tight and won't come off. Doesn't seem like it's ever been taken off either.

I do have 2 fuses on my monitor wires that go to the deflection board. Is this normal for a g05-801? Both fuses checked good, but not sure if this is normal to have.

Still just getting 2 white dots side by side in the middle of the screen with something moving between the 2 dots (ala Kit from Knight Rider), while playing blind, with the spot killer on.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far, but still scratching my head here.
 
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If spot killer is on, then the x y signals are not getting to the monitor. Measure you x out and y out DC voltages.
 
If spot killer is on, then the x y signals are not getting to the monitor. Measure you x out and y out DC voltages.

I imagine there perfect. road.runner knows what he's doing with the Asteroids boards, and does great work, but it couldn't hurt to test. What reading should I get?

Thanks.
 
I don't doubt RR does good work don't get me wrong. But we need a starting point. Voltages should run anywhere from 2.6Vac in X, and around 3vac in Y. This is in test mode of course.

If those are good, then the spot killer thinks you aren't getting signals.
 
A logic probe can be used to confirm the board is outputing an X and Y signal (assuming a scope is unavailable). Since the output waveform voltages fluctuate from +10v to -10v a voltmeter may not be able to reliably confirm the signal is always valid. If the spot killer circuit is seeing a voltage level out of range it will activate to protect the monitor.

The signal then needs to get from the game board to the deflection board (could be bad pins, connectors, wiring)

From there the problem must be with the monitor (likely the deflection board). Like Talon, I am not a monitor expert, so I am out of my element at that point.
 
I don't doubt RR does good work don't get me wrong. But we need a starting point. Voltages should run anywhere from 2.6Vac in X, and around 3vac in Y. This is in test mode of course.

If those are good, then the spot killer thinks you aren't getting signals.

In test mode I'm getting -8.2 on "X", and 3.4 on "Y". The readings aren't fluctuating either, they're holding.
 
A logic probe can be used to confirm the board is outputing an X and Y signal (assuming a scope is unavailable). Since the output waveform voltages fluctuate from +10v to -10v a voltmeter may not be able to reliably confirm the signal is always valid. If the spot killer circuit is seeing a voltage level out of range it will activate to protect the monitor.

The signal then needs to get from the game board to the deflection board (could be bad pins, connectors, wiring)

From there the problem must be with the monitor (likely the deflection board). Like Talon, I am not a monitor expert, so I am out of my element at that point.

In test mode I'm getting -8.2 on "X", and 3.4 on "Y". The readings aren't fluctuating either, they're holding.

But, like you said, "since the output waveform voltages fluctuate from +10v to -10v a voltmeter may not be able to reliably confirm the signal is always valid."

"could be bad pins, connectors, wiring"---Yeah...I'm going to do an overhaul on some header pins and connectors (ala Baby Pac-Man). Even though I re-soldered them already, they could still be the issue.
 
Okay...after removing the heatsink with the X,Y transistors to inspect my work, when I put them back, I now only have one dot in the middle of the screen. I used to have 2 side by side with something moving in between them.

Also, now I have a buzz in the speaker, and the game still plays blind.

But, I think I noticed a problem on my deflection pcb.

I do NOT have any fuses at F600 and F700. Instead, at both F600 and F700, the holes that the fuses go into are connected by what looks like a piece of a leg from a capacitor. No fuses found.

I read that a 2amp slow blow can be put here and that it wold work fine.

Can anyone confirm that both what I have on my board is incorrect, and whether or not a 2 amp slow blow can be placed here as a replacement for the original 2 amp pico fuse?

Also, could this contribute to the problems I am having?

Thanks again for all the input and suggestions guys!
 
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Okay, finally got pics taken. I went ahead and put 2 pico fuses at F700 and F600, but here is the before shot which shows them missing and a capacitor leg(?) put in instead.

Unfortunately, there's still a white dot and a spot killer happening.

It must be my monitor.

What's the final test to determine whether or not the monitor is dead? Is there on simple reading that will tell me?

Thanks.
 
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