Asteroids has sound, no picture. g05801

asteroids79

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Recently picked up an asteroids game. it powers up, and the game will play blind. no glow in the monitor neck. it's a GO5-801.

Big blue has been changed out, no change. 33.5 volts going to the GO5801(6 pin molex)

If i run a dedicated 120volt line with a transformer to a swapped monitor, would another monitor work? or do i have to work with only g05 EH?

Thanks.

g05801/g05-801/go5801/go5-801
 
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If i run a dedicated 120volt line with a transformer to a swapped monitor, would another monitor work?

No, it will not work. You need to use a vector monitor, that is wired correctly for that cab. The easiest will of course be a B/W vector monitor, but a color vector monitor can be used with some modification.
 
Thank you.

How much should i expect to spend to have somone do a rebuild to my chassis? Or do it myself? Since i can source parts from bob roberts.
 
Do it yourself.

i'd like to do it myself, but no experience/zilch with vector monitors. does bob roberts sell a rebuild kit, or do i buy the individual components (1 which he is out of stock on)?

all chassis fuses are good, including the one under the high voltage cover/section. no neck glow (is it noticeable on a vector monitor?)

thanks again.
 
801

Neck glow is more visable on a 801. The glow you see is actually a heater that runs off of a seperate 6.3 volts. You need to do a search on here to find out some one that has had a similar problem. You can fix it if you have a DVOM. There is a difference between the 801s and 802s as far as the schematics, voltages and harness. Bob sells a kit that allows you to run an 802 or a lv2000 in place of the 801. The tubes are the same between all 3 BTW. Does yours have the owl eye coin door and the yellow lettering on the bezel? What is the serial #? Probably 16,000 or lower if it has the 801.
 
Neck glow is more visable on a 801. The glow you see is actually a heater that runs off of a seperate 6.3 volts. You need to do a search on here to find out some one that has had a similar problem. You can fix it if you have a DVOM. There is a difference between the 801s and 802s as far as the schematics, voltages and harness. Bob sells a kit that allows you to run an 802 or a lv2000 in place of the 801. The tubes are the same between all 3 BTW. Does yours have the owl eye coin door and the yellow lettering on the bezel? What is the serial #? Probably 16,000 or lower if it has the 801.

owl eye coin door, yes. serial number, cannot find (no labels on back of cab, no serial number on PCB or audio regulator board). bezel writing is white.

thanks.
 
Bob has what you need, but you need to positively identify the monitor as Aaron has stated first.

GO5-801. 2 seperate labels attached to the chassis.

yes, game plays fine, just blind. it's set on free play. i get typical noise from the monitor when the game is powered on. no neck glow, no picture.
 
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just searched the forum, with no luck, where can i find the serial number on this game, if the label on the back is gone? thanks.

none on the power supply, and i don't see one on the monitor chassis or the pcb.
 
Here is a couple that will help. BTW how do you know it is playing blind if it has no sound or picture.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=92282&highlight=asteroids so he had a dead board, and i don't?

http://www.google.com/7146aaron_

I never said i have no sound? it plays fine blind. the sound works, all buttons work. As for the link, the first one ended up with the guy having a dead board, which i don't think i have...i measured the X and Y inputs, and they were reading correct. Voltages read correctly from the regulator board, the harness going into the PCB, and the power supply has a new "big blue" installed, power readings are within specs for that as well. I read up on these for about 2 hours before joining and posting my questions.

the LED is not on at D507, if that helps.
 
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ok, if i pull the video input on the deflection board, then power the game on, the spot killer LED comes on. when that video input is plugged in, and the game powered on, the spot killer is off.
 
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Asteroids

Sorry. I thought you said it no sound. You have a HV failure or a bad tube most likely with the spot killer acting like that.
 
OK, I just noticed your first post said...no glow in the neck. These monitors have an external heater voltage....it's the same 6 volt line that supplies juice to the coin door lights. Is the coin door light illuminated? Do you have 6 volts (give or take) at the lamp socket? Is fuse F6 blown? If your heater voltage is dead...the monitor won't lite.

Edward
 
Sorry. I thought you said it no sound. You have a HV failure or a bad tube most likely with the spot killer acting like that.

very cool, thank you. i'm betting on the high voltage failure as well. should i get the transistors on the chassis changed out as well?
 
OK, I just noticed your first post said...no glow in the neck. These monitors have an external heater voltage....it's the same 6 volt line that supplies juice to the coin door lights. Is the coin door light illuminated? Do you have 6 volts (give or take) at the lamp socket? Is fuse F6 blown? If your heater voltage is dead...the monitor won't lite.

Edward

no light in the coin door, and the socket is getting nothing on my voltmeter. fuses check out fine, though. i hate to ask, but which one is F6 (my power supply is not marked at all).
 

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