Asteroids G05

csa3d

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I have an asteroids cocktail table where i still have some board issues, but I've replaced caps on the power supply, monitor, and all pcbs. It's failing self test now, beeping low on the first ram. I have an order in for new ram, but my question about the monitor is:

When should I expect to see test patterns appear? Are they dependent on having the board 100% working first before I see anything more then a dot on the screen?

I do not have the spot killer LED lit up, I have neck glow, I can hear minor "chatter", and there's a single point of light in the center of the screen.

Also, I've heard that the D904 diode causes a lot of issues. Is this one of them? At this point, should I look into replacing it? Is there any other testing I could do to narrow down any monitor related issues?

Thanks
-csa
 
If you have the "spot" in the center, that sounds to me like either the board is definitely not functioning or you still have monitor work to do. If the spot killer is off that sounds to me like the monitor still needs help.

Have you resoldered all the molex plugs on the monitor pcb, make sure all the fuses are good, and while you're at it, test both R100 and R101 and if either is bad, just remove both and solder a heavy piece of wire in place of them (later revisions got rid of those huge resistors).
 
Have you resoldered all the molex plugs on the monitor pcb, make sure all the fuses are good, and while you're at it, test both R100 and R101 and if either is bad, just remove both and solder a heavy piece of wire in place of them (later revisions got rid of those huge resistors).

I have not resoldered any of the plugs. Fuses are all new. Those resistors mentioned look terrible on my board. I have not tested them.. not quite sure yet how to test them. Do you know off hand? I've attached images below:

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This being said, does that mean that if everything was working on the monitor, I'd see test patterns despite a bad game board?

-csa
 
One more question:

What gauge wire would you reccommend replacing R100 and R101 with if needed?

-csa
 
You test them the same way you test any resistor: with the Ohms setting on your multimeter.

And unless there's a doc somewhere stating to replace those resistors with wire, you need to replace them with another resistor.
 
There is several docs - the B&W Vector Faq, and Wells-Gardner 19v2000 schematics for Rev 5. :)

I'd put $10 on that right resistor (the one thats *not* burnt to a crisp) being bad. What happens is one goes open and the other sits there and bakes trying to supply enough current to run the monitor. (being bent so close to the pcb doesn't help either)

Make sure to resolder EVERY PIN on every molex plug, its not that much, and they ALL get bad solder points. You can do that first just to see what happens before dealing with the resistors. If anything bend the one resistor back up a little to get it away from the board.

I'd say maybe a 16 gauge wire or heavier should do if you do decide to remove the resistors. Again - although its uncommon, they DID remove them later and simply put jumpers there while they were still being made. I have pics of boards with the jumper.

Here's the vector monitor faq - Page 17 if you want proof :)

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/FAQ Black and White XY Version 1.1 dated 7 Feb 02.pdf
 
Also - in that pic with the resistors, I see 3 fuses missing, you sure you have them all? This chassis has I think at least 3 to 5 (another unusual vector tidbit).
 
sounds like you have a board problem. I would try and get it playing blind before messing with the monitor. The monitor might be ok but you KNOW the board is bad.
 
Also - in that pic with the resistors, I see 3 fuses missing, you sure you have them all? This chassis has I think at least 3 to 5 (another unusual vector tidbit).

Yes. This is an older picture of the board during disassembly. I did a continuity test on all the new fuses I put in.

-csa
 
sounds like you have a board problem. I would try and get it playing blind before messing with the monitor. The monitor might be ok but you KNOW the board is bad.

100% agree there. Hopefully the RAM which is on the way squashes all the board issues.

-csa
 
I just placed and order for a new tube since the one I has not one, but two different burn in patterns offset slightly. My plan is to get everything working with this older monitor, then do a swap out once I know it's all up and running. I picked up a 15ST4730R from Video Display Corp for just under $60 shipped. This is the same tube the B&W Vector Monitor FAQ references on page 21.

Does anyone have any links to any info outlining how one does the actual swap?

-csa
 
Wha.....? You can order brand new vector tubes???

Swapping a tube in a B&W X-Y monitor is easy. After discharging the tube & removing the "suction cup", take off the neck connector (it will have some sort of glue holding it in place, cut the glue off if necessary) and unplug the yoke from the deflection board. Then remove the 4 bolts from the corners where the tube mounts to the frame. Put the old yoke on the new tube and install it in the frame. Reconnect the "suction cup", neck connector, & yoke wires and you're ready to plug it in. You make have to make some yoke adjustments if the picture doesn't look right.
 
Wha.....? You can order brand new vector tubes???

I'm guessing it's new, as I didn't find anywhere on the site mentioning they were used. I ran across this KLOV thread in a google search for G05 tube swap. I wasn't able to find the correct tube from the site listed in the B&W Monitor faq, so I was happy to hear there were other options.

Swapping a tube in a B&W X-Y monitor is easy. After discharging the tube & removing the "suction cup", take off the neck connector (it will have some sort of glue holding it in place, cut the glue off if necessary) and unplug the yoke from the deflection board. Then remove the 4 bolts from the corners where the tube mounts to the frame. Put the old yoke on the new tube and install it in the frame. Reconnect the "suction cup", neck connector, & yoke wires and you're ready to plug it in. You make have to make some yoke adjustments if the picture doesn't look right.

Sounds easy.. hoping it is as well. I did find a link here which was more pictoral, which make me feel more capable of doing this. Knowing I can make this thing look new again has me feeling pretty excited!

-csa
 
Good luck! I think tube swaps on vectors are easy. I did my first one without any instruction at all. Make sure you discharge the tube a couple times - once when you remove the cup, then again a few minutes later as there could still be a residual charge.
 
My new replacement tube for the G05 tube swap arrived Friday from Video Display Corp. They did an awesome packing job, and the postal ground service actually delivered my package without smashing anything!

That being said, work on my monitor has stopped until I can get my PCB up and running. It appears that my RAM swap did not fix my PCB, and I'm currently stuck. Details of that over here on this thread.

-csa
 
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