Asteroids G05 flyback loose

Aniraf

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I did a tube swap on a dead Asteroids G05-802 tube. Long story short, it worked and looks generally awesome (needs minor adjustment).

The thing that didn't quite work however was the flyback attachment to the tube. It's super loose and I don't trust it staying put unless I tape it down.

Considering I am unable to find a new flyback for the monitor, I wanted to know if I could put some rubber washers under it to ensure there is a tight connection. The only thing that concerned me was the potential of heat, but I'm not really sure that there is that much heat which I would have to be concerned.

I fitted it with the rubber washers as a test, but didn't power it on. It certainly works in keeping the fit extremely snug.

What are your thoughts?
 
Are you referring to the deflection yoke? The 'flyback' is in the HV cage (and is technically an HV transformer). The yoke is what fits on the tube, and deflects the beam.

There are normally rubber wedges that help hold the yoke in place (in addition to the clamp, which secures it to the neck of the tube.) If they are missing, you can get some from another dead CRT.
 
Are you talking about this?

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Ohh, you're probably right, CaptainHendry.

If that's the case, you just need to bend the two tabs/clips out a bit on the anode, and it will grab the hole more tightly.

Also, you can clean all of the old waxy grease off of the suction cup with Goof Off, or nail polish remover (acetone).

You need the anode to be making solid contact with the tube/hole. If it is loose, your HV won't be stable.
 
Typically two things happen here.

1. the "suction cup" secures itself to the tube naturally; but both surfaces need to be clean
2. the clips are tight as they bend into the tube; perhaps you did not push them all the way into the hole?

No matter, be careful as the tube maintains a few hundred volts, sometimes, when powered down and after discharging.
 
Post a pic if you can. You definitely don't want to run this with a bad anode connection.

Please be careful and discharge before you mess with this. I think the G05 HV runs at 14,500 volts which will ruin your day.
 
Are you referring to the deflection yoke?

Nope, I'm talking about the flyback adapter that has the little suction cup thing on the back of it. This is the thing that pushes the high-voltage current into the tube.

It just doesn't suction on like they normally do.
 
Typically two things happen here.

1. the "suction cup" secures itself to the tube naturally; but both surfaces need to be clean
2. the clips are tight as they bend into the tube; perhaps you did not push them all the way into the hole?

No matter, be careful as the tube maintains a few hundred volts, sometimes, when powered down and after discharging.

Yeah, so...this is the interesting part...this new tube almost seems to have less depth for the anode clips. The broken factory tube accepts them just fine. This new one creates about a 4mm air gap between the suction cup and the tube surface.
 
Post a pic if you can. You definitely don't want to run this with a bad anode connection.

Please be careful and discharge before you mess with this. I think the G05 HV runs at 14,500 volts which will ruin your day.

Yes, thank you. I'm pretty solid at discharging them now. I've worked on a lot of G07s, and I've built myself a pretty elaborate discharging tool with a bank of resisters to smoothly step down the voltage :).
 
I have seen a few where the wire and clips creep forward part of the way out of the 'suction cup' so when clipped in to the hole the cup is not tight against the tube. Depending on the style of cup on your HV unit, it can be slid forward so the end of the wire and clip are pulled down into the recess in the center of the inside of the cup. Then when you clip it on the tube the cup should lay flat against the tube.

There is never any suction involved. The clips are what provide the mechanical fastening... they hold the cup, not the other way around.
 
I tried to take a video to illustrate the problem here. I think you guys clearly know what I'm talking about, but the problem I'm having is that the anode tabs will never generate enough pressure to hold it tight.

This links to a video on OneDrive...it's safe (if you trust me):
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AoOAKOlC8vIXgZ8uJzxa2ZMxwnb9Kw

I from what I can tell, when I measure the anode hole, this new tube is roughly 2mm less deep.

Like I said, I can solve this with rubber rings to close that gap...not sure if that's a fire waiting to happen :/.
 
As long as there's a solid electrical connection, there shouldn't be a fire hazard.

The fire risk occurs when the connection isn't solid, and any air gap occurs, which causes a spark to jump that gap, and that's what creates a lot of heat, and will melt anything nearby, like the anode cup.

I tried watching the vid, but it said there was an error. I'm still not 100% clear on how the depth of the anode hole is affecting things, unless it's so shallow that the clips aren't grabbing the inside of the hole. But if that is the case, I'm not seeing how adding rubber rings would solve that, as the anode would just fall out anyway, if it isn't grabbing the hole.

Worst case, if you still have the TV that the old tube came from, you could grab the anode cup from that, and see if you can swap it with the original cup. There should be a screw inside the original cup, that will allow you to remove it. Might be worth a try, if you can get the new cup to attach.
 
Spread the metal tabs farther apart.

Ok, I'll give that a shot. I didn't want to bend them too much as they do fit in the anode hole. If you watch the video you can see I'm pulling on it, and it's clearly attached...it's just that air gap I worry about.
 
OK my comments about the wire and clip being adjustable relative to the cup do not apply to this style... however you can unscrew the metal clip piece from inside the cup, take it out, and either alter it or substitute another that is shorter.


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I think the role of the cup is partly to keep the area clean, partly to insulate, and partly to provide tension against the glass so the hooks are stable and snug once they are in place.
 
OK my comments about the wire and clip being adjustable relative to the cup do not apply to this style... however you can unscrew the metal clip piece from inside the cup, take it out, and either alter it or substitute another that is shorter.

I think the role of the cup is partly to keep the area clean, partly to insulate, and partly to provide tension against the glass so the hooks are stable and snug once they are in place.

I did notice that it was screwed on there...any idea where I could purchase a slightly shorter one?
 
Ok, i've Tried bending the tabs, and adjusting them to make sure the fit is snug. No dice. I put one of the rubber washers on there and fired it up. That works, but I don't know for how long.

There has to be someone doing a tube swap who has experienced this. Seems weird that the anode hole would be different on each tube.
 
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