Asteroids Deluxe

Neekii

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Okay, so my AD cabinet. I bought it for 150 about a months ago. Issue was: it could turn on, and you could play it, BUT all of the "sprites" were dots, or short lines. As well as text.


And now, you see nothing on screen when in attract/play modes, but in test mode, you see what was seen in the video.

That's the main issue. Here are the rest:

Spot killer light is ON! Not sure if that can cause my main issue, but i definitely don't have the slightest idea on how to fix it. Considered buying a Cap Kit from Bob, but i'm not sure if a PCB issue can ultimately cause the spot killer light to come on.

Big Blue looks new, but The previous owner never mentioning replacing it, so that's up to me.

The backdrop seems to have had tape on it, and removed, because there are several white splotches where the black paint has been removed.

Black Light is out (easy fix as long as i can find an 18" 15 W Black light bulb [white black light, not black light blue]

The access panel is not original, It fits loosely and doesn't hit the safety switch on the cabinet, so for now it's zip tied.


That about covers it, if anyone has any information to help that doesn't involve me replacing my board and monitor altogether, let me know.


Youtube:



 
I think you might need to turn the brightness on the monitor down. I had A similar issue with Battlezone where the lines where connected to everything on screen turning down the brightness helped in that case.
 
Where are you located? Maybe someone nearby will let you test your board with their monitor or vice versa. I think you have badness in the z output section of your board.
 
Brightness is turned up too bright. You're seeing the retrace lines because of that.

I'm willing to bet your board is fine, but your monitor has an issue.

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/FAQ%20Black%20and%20White%20XY%20Version%201.1%20dated%207%20Feb%2002.pdf

Check that FAQ, there's some good reading in there, but if you want to just skip that then you can scroll down a few pages and start looking at the symptoms and repairs... basically you're looking for one that says the fuses aren't blowing (doesn't seem like they are), spot killer is on, and when you turn the brightness up to see stuff.

PROBABLY (maybe) related to one of the transistors (or one of their diodes?) on the chassis... I don't -think- any of the big 4 on the frame, but you never know.

EDIT: Took a quick peek at it... bottom of page 39 is where it starts.

Symptom: Game Plays Blind. Spot Killer Is On. Raster Can Be Seen By Turning Up The
Brightness.

If you have screen brightness with the screen turned all the way up you can probably rule out the
EHT voltage supply.

Your problem sounds like a z-drive problem either from the main PCB or the monitor.
Verify normal operation of the spot killer circuit by grounding the reset pin on the game board and
you should hear the yoke chatter stop and the spot killer led on the deflection board will turn on.

When you unground the pin, the led goes out, and yoke chatter resumes. This test is important
because it eliminates 50 % of the circuits in the monitor that would give those symptoms, such as
the deflection system.

The problem could be a bad spot killer circuit (leaky transistors in the spot killer circuit). Never
bypass the spot killer, get it fixed right. It will probably take an oscilloscope to track it down, or
just replace the four transistors: Q500; Q501; Q502; and Q503.

Chasing thru the Z-drive is easy after verifying proper operation of the HV board and deflection
systems. Verify the HV system by checking the B+ voltage on pin 1 on the connector P500 to the
deflection board. It should be 90-100 volts pulsed DC. If you do not have this voltage, the HV unit
must be troubleshot. All of the outputs from the flyback are "geared" together. You can set the
high- voltage by precisely setting the lower taps coming off the transformer.

Verify that z-drive is coming off the game board. (I am assuming you do not have a scope) The Z
signal is a pulsed DC signal coming into the deflection board on a wire connected the board near
R520 and R522 (it is marked "5" on the schematics). The side of the resistors closest to #5 wire is a
test point. With the test pattern on the screen the z-signal will be 75% at 2Volts and 25% at 0Volts.
You will read at least +1Volt at this test point with a voltmeter.

If it's dead 0, the problem is on the game board.
 
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So how exactly would i go about checking this? i'm kind of a newbie when it comes to cabinets, but I learn fast. If i need to check the z-drive, How would i do that with a basic Voltmeter?

And where is the reset pin?
 
gmontag, i'm located in Stratford, Oklahoma. There are a few guys that i'm in touch with in OKC that may be able to help. In addition, does Anyone happen to have an extra WG 19v2000 or EH G-05 802/805 chassis?
 
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