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sohchx
Active member
Will do!! I have been meaning to ask you,do you repair these too? My frustration is through the roof with this.
Asteroids Deluxe dilemna
- Thread starter sohchx
- Start date
Will do!! I have been meaning to ask you,do you repair these too? My frustration is through the roof with this.
Talon2000
Well-known member
I do board repair on Asteroids, I don't do the monitors though. There are others who specialize in monitors. I just keep my own running 
jackflack
Active member
Picture of test Lug Location?
Test lugs are in the corner near the edge connector. On the board you can tell one corner is isolated from the rest of the board, the test lugs are at the edge of that corner.
You can also try flipping the game into test mode to see if the monitor starts working. In some cases the board will be able to draw the test screens but not the game screens thanks to some issue. I know you said that the board is known good but if it was shipped to you something could have happened in transport.
Usually when those chassis mounted transistors go bad fuses are blown...
Matt
Usually when those chassis mounted transistors go bad fuses are blown...
Matt
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sohchx
Active member
Ok I found the lugs and performed the test for X and Y. The numbers for both are unstable and fluctuate continuously. X at it's highest was .21 and Y maxed at 3.01. Is there a particular number for both X and Y that I should be looking for?
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sohchx
Active member
Flipped to test mode,got the same symptom
xxstatic
Well-known member
Did you re-flow the solder on all of the connector pins on the deflection board? My AD did the same as yours but came alive after I did it.
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sohchx
Active member
I did that a while ago
Talon2000
Well-known member
Measuring in DC it will be unstable, and those sound about right. Check with AC and you should see about 2.6v on X, and about 3V on Y
Sounds like the signals are in range.
From here you need to start checking the spot killer and x y stages on the deflection board.
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sohchx
Active member
I tested with AC and got 1V for X and fluctuation between 3V and 6V for Y.
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sohchx
Active member
what next?? Are the measurements that I got yesterday in spec?
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sohchx
Active member
Anyone still here?
richiewoo
New member
HV Cage?
I'm assuming that you've gone over the HV cage, but hey, you never know!
I'm also assuming that you would have reflowed the pins on the molex that connects the HV cage to the deflection board, but that would also be a good one to check. Also, of course you would need to make sure you were getting the correct voltage at the anode - I have never done a test like this and don't recommend it. (just because of my lack of experience) But, if you had an HV probe, it's possible.
I'd go over the HV cage. Also, there are 4 heat sinked transistors that you can check - and although it's not recommended, you can test them in circuit just to see if they're good. They're the U07 and U57 ones. They test different - 07's one way 57's another. Put your tester into diode mode and put the black lead in the center and the red on another leg. If you get nothing, reverse the leads. If you still get nothing, maybe pull it and test it outside the board. Bob has these, I just picked some up not too long ago.
In addition to that, do you still have R100 and R101 on the board? It's possible that an old game board could have fried them. I had one that was over-resisting with a 15V2000.
The only time I've seen the spotkiller is when my game board was outputting too much voltage. Your game seems fine.
Ah, one more thing, you can test the large heat-sinked transistor at the top of the board (near R100 and R101). It's a 4-way diode, the paths are screened on the underside of the board. That's something else you can test just to make sure.
I'm an amateur, but these are just some recent experiences I've had with this type of monitor. Hope it helps, and be careful!
I'm assuming that you've gone over the HV cage, but hey, you never know!
I'm also assuming that you would have reflowed the pins on the molex that connects the HV cage to the deflection board, but that would also be a good one to check. Also, of course you would need to make sure you were getting the correct voltage at the anode - I have never done a test like this and don't recommend it. (just because of my lack of experience) But, if you had an HV probe, it's possible.
I'd go over the HV cage. Also, there are 4 heat sinked transistors that you can check - and although it's not recommended, you can test them in circuit just to see if they're good. They're the U07 and U57 ones. They test different - 07's one way 57's another. Put your tester into diode mode and put the black lead in the center and the red on another leg. If you get nothing, reverse the leads. If you still get nothing, maybe pull it and test it outside the board. Bob has these, I just picked some up not too long ago.
In addition to that, do you still have R100 and R101 on the board? It's possible that an old game board could have fried them. I had one that was over-resisting with a 15V2000.
The only time I've seen the spotkiller is when my game board was outputting too much voltage. Your game seems fine.
Ah, one more thing, you can test the large heat-sinked transistor at the top of the board (near R100 and R101). It's a 4-way diode, the paths are screened on the underside of the board. That's something else you can test just to make sure.
I'm an amateur, but these are just some recent experiences I've had with this type of monitor. Hope it helps, and be careful!
Talon2000
Well-known member
Yeah your voltages sound good coming from the game board. So I would suspect a spot killer problem on the monitor.
The only other way to know for sure is to put a scope on the outputs.
The only other way to know for sure is to put a scope on the outputs.
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sohchx
Active member
I don't have a scope so that won't be happening. I'm just going to send it to arcade cup for repair. Theres nothing else I can do on my own without the right equipment.
Dokert
Well-known member
rent an O-Scope
richiewoo
New member
Lots of good stuff in here
This is a great resource, if you're not gonna send it until Monday, maybe go over it and see what your issue might be...
http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AR...XY (Version 1.1 dated 7 Feb 02) [English].pdf
Lots of troubleshooting info in there. The nice thing about yours is that you can eliminate the game board as an issue and focus on the monitor. I kept going back to my monitor over and over and it turned out to be the game board!
This is a great resource, if you're not gonna send it until Monday, maybe go over it and see what your issue might be...
http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AR...XY (Version 1.1 dated 7 Feb 02) [English].pdf
Lots of troubleshooting info in there. The nice thing about yours is that you can eliminate the game board as an issue and focus on the monitor. I kept going back to my monitor over and over and it turned out to be the game board!
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sohchx
Active member
I have an o-scope at work but can't bring it home because it's not mine. Would I have to take the whole cab in to work to perform the test?
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sohchx
Active member
I agree it is a great source,I have been reading over it for the past month or so.
