Asteroids Deluxe, 2nd opinion wanted

videodan

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My game will be on while in play mode, then after a while, most of the images (the exception being your ship you control) will fade away to a blind gameplay. However, after almost a minute, the images come back. Has anyone had this problem before?

I'm had the seller suggest remedies, but I'd like another opinion as well.

Any suggestions or ideas would be helpful. Thanks!
 
Did you resolder all the molex headers on the deflection board? Next check all the fuses and the two big resistors - if either resistor is bad, simply yank both and replace each with a piece of heavy wire.

Next check the plug going to the monitor - sometimes the pins slip out of the house.

Lastly, check the power brick in the game and clean up the fuses.
 
Most likely a high voltage cage problem, when the image goes off try turning up the brightness on the monitor, if the high voltage varies the other voltages generated by the HV cage also vary and can cause brightness problems, the deflection board is probably ok judging by the fact that the ship itself is still there, it is displayed at a higher brightness level than the other graphics.
Dick
 
Thanks for the input, guys. I didn't resolder anything as my resoldering skills suck, lol. I'm not sure what the resistors look like, or how to replace them with the wire. I'll reconnect the plug going to the monitor. The power brick is ok, as I've replaced all fuses and big blue.
 
Well the ship does have the brightest scale on Z. So it would make sense that it would be the last thing to fade.

I'd start with a reflow like suggested of all the header pins.
 
Thanks for the input, guys. I didn't resolder anything as my resoldering skills suck, lol. I'm not sure what the resistors look like, or how to replace them with the wire. I'll reconnect the plug going to the monitor. The power brick is ok, as I've replaced all fuses and big blue.

Well now's a good time to start learnin if you want to stay in this hobby! Reseating a plug only goes so far when thats not the problem. Molexes have nice large solder joints so they're a good start, just don't hold the iron on them forever and melt them lol.

Last but not least - I figured I should mention this just incase...those soldering "guns" are not soldering "irons" - don't use them on electronics!
 
Well now's a good time to start learnin if you want to stay in this hobby!

+1, and there's no way to get better at soldering other than to do it. A lot. Reflowing header pins is great practice, and you're pretty unlikely to screw it up so badly you can't fix it, or to destroy any parts in the process.
 
Those two big ceramic ones on the deflection board? They aren't needed?

There's a Field service memo from atari that states removing them and replacing with a heavy gauge wire is the repair. But if they aren't bad you shouldn't have to mess with them. They are supposed to be for inrush current, but there are so many other better options than what was originally designed. The wire method works fine.
 
+1, and there's no way to get better at soldering other than to do it. A lot. Reflowing header pins is great practice, and you're pretty unlikely to screw it up so badly you can't fix it, or to destroy any parts in the process.
I know, I get it, I just wish I was better at it. But besides that, the problem is now rectified. I started by unplugging the large connector, and that didn't work. The next thing I tried was unplugging and reseating the vertical 5 straight pin connector on the left side of the chasis. That seemed to do the trick.

Thanks to everyone for helping out!
 
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