Asteroids cocktail glass paint question

csa3d

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So my asteroids cocktail glass is in pretty decent shape I'd say, minus the black stripes which outline the boarders of the glass and the one around the the monitor. The atari logos and the four corner logos are in fabulous shape. I'm trying to figure out what to do here.

Repainting the stripes doesn't seem *that* hard, but I'd like some advice on how to go about doing it properly. There seems to be a few parts to this from my research:

1.) I need to protect the logos which have currently not flaked. I've read on here about using tripple thick to coat any good artwork first. I'll assume this means get the Krylon spray on tripple thick, mask off only those areas, and apply. Should I have a little overlap so that some gets on the glass as a boarder or no?

2) Once the original good art is protected, I am free to use acetone or similar to remove the old boarder paint. Since most of this paint is visible, I'd like to try to create a stencil from it first, so that I put it back as closely as possible. I found a link here talking about using some clear low tack masking from Michaels called "Clear Cover". I've contemplated covering the back of the glass areas I plan to repaint with this, cutting out the boarder stencil, then removing the paint so I have a good way to put it back exactly. Has anyone done this? Is there a better way?

3) Once I have the glass cleaned, stripes removed, I've read that krylon fusion paint in light doses is the trick to reapplying the paint. I also have access to an airbrush, and am open to other suggestions. Once the paint is reapplied, and fully dry, i'll assume I'm to tripple thick that as new strip as well?

Anyone having insight on this process please hit me up. Here's some images for reference:

index.php


index.php


index.php


Also to note, according to Scott at ArcadeShop.com (who makes an underlay option should I want to get a blank piece of glass)

We do have the Atari logo, but since the logo is in the open area near the
monitor they are not part of the underlay, they
adhere to the glass.

I could buy one of these and go that route:
asteroids-ct-underlay.jpg


Thoughts?
-csa
 
That table looks great. I'd leave the black borders as-is, replace the rusted bolts on the sides and call it a day.

If you're set on repainting them, best way to remove the old borders is with a razor blade.
 
That table looks great. I'd leave the black borders as-is, replace the rusted bolts on the sides and call it a day.

If you're set on repainting them, best way to remove the old borders is with a razor blade.

I co-sign what he says, that artwork looks very nice still, I would mess with any of it. If anything I would remove the glass clips and repaint them, but otherwise looks like a solid machine.
 
Yeah, I hear you both on just leaving it be. The problem with me is it will probably always nag me. I for sure do not want to touch anything but the borders.. and those are largely straight, black lines.

I read online some more about creating stencils using acetate and low tack spray. Not sure how much better this would be, but it feels like I'd be able to create the stencil easier because the acetate is not sticky until I make it so, meaning the tracing process would probably be better to do while not sticky.

I could also price out getting just those lines laser cut into a template from a high res scan (should someone have one laying around??).

-csa
 
Hummm... I would leave it too.

Having used Triple Thick before, I am sure any Triple Thick overlap on the clear portion of the glass, will be seen when looking through from the top. The only way to take it off safely, is with a razor blade IMO, and carefully scrape it away.
 
Here is a quick and cheap tip. Use painters tape on the edges (so you get a clean straight line) and use a Black perminent marker on the unpainted sections. Do a small section and see what you think.
 
When using acetate mask, don't expect to get clean edges with the acetate. No matter how careful I was, I just could not get straight edges, or nice curves.

I therefore only used the acetate to mask off original artwork, and not as a template for new artwork.

I have a high speed pinball which is turning out AWESOME, and part of why it is awesome is that the masks I made protected the original artwork allowing me to paint new black around the cabinet while keeping the "originality" of the machine.

When applying masks, I used a hole punch (for paper binders) and made several holes in the mask. Then I used masking tape over the holes, to hold the acetate to the machine surface. This way, there was only a small amount of masking tape holding the acetate to the wood. Too much masking tape, means that when you remove the mask and tape, you will peel off the original art and destroy the cabinet as the 20 year old paint and wood will stick to the masking tape and you will cry. Does that makes sense?

I think keeping original art, even if it isn't perfect is a good way to preserve and restore these machines. The acetate is to be used ask a mask to protect it while you paint around it, but not to be used as a template for reproducing the artwork.

If I was to reproduce the artwork, I would use vinyl, and have it cut out by computer. But that is a different thread.
 
When using acetate mask, don't expect to get clean edges with the acetate. No matter how careful I was, I just could not get straight edges, or nice curves.

I therefore only used the acetate to mask off original artwork, and not as a template for new artwork.

Ah, this is good to know. If nothing more, makes me realize I need to test this process on something I don't care about first to see how it turns out.


If I was to reproduce the artwork, I would use vinyl, and have it cut out by computer. But that is a different thread.

Let's humour this, artwork was painted on this glass somehow.. so it's gotta be reproducible. It should help to mention that I'm in the arts field, so I also feel confident I can tackle this if I have the proper techniques down.

-csa
 
Ah, this is good to know. If nothing more, makes me realize I need to test this process on something I don't care about first to see how it turns out.




Let's humour this, artwork was painted on this glass somehow.. so it's gotta be reproducible. It should help to mention that I'm in the arts field, so I also feel confident I can tackle this if I have the proper techniques down.

-csa

The art , including the black border was silk-screened on the bottom of the glass. The only way to reproduce it would be to silk-screen it again. You could mask it off and paint it but it will look like hell. Leave it be.
 
Ah, this is good to know. If nothing more, makes me realize I need to test this process on something I don't care about first to see how it turns out.




Let's humour this, artwork was painted on this glass somehow.. so it's gotta be reproducible. It should help to mention that I'm in the arts field, so I also feel confident I can tackle this if I have the proper techniques down.

-csa
If I was to attempt your glass project, and the glass was totally beyond repair, I would get computer cut stencils ($20), and put that over the glass, then spray on the black, peel off the stencil. The original was done with silkscreen because that is cost effective, but I think computer stencils are appropriate for a one-shot restoration.

The guy that did my computer stencils was at http://www.thetankslapper.biz/ and he normally makes stenciles for motorcycles - this is how I found him.
 
Does anyone have a scan or source image of the asteroids cocktail underlay? I'm hoping not to have to go out and buy a flatbed scanner if I don't have to.

Thanks
-csa
 
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