assistance on next path for stuck on lights - baby pacman

[Dokert]

Was considering upgrading my BPM to LEDs, but the problem is the solenoid / lamp driver board. When doing the LED upgrade on Xenon for example, it requires the Altek Ultimate Lamp Driver board in order for the LEDs to work correctly.

I have found that the 2N5060's just can't handle the 2 lamps attached to them and blow fairly regularly. Trying to figure out the best way to replace the 2N5060's with MCR106's to cure that problem once and for all.

 

[Lindsey]

Sorry to dig this one back up.

quick recap
* some lights were out and it turned out that it was bad diodes and SCRs.
* Lindsey explained how bally was able to control 2 lamps individually on one SCR here
* With all the lights working I decided to put LEDs in this BPM. Some would not work. I even got some pricey non polarized and rectified ones, and still no luck.

So this post about diodes on a gottlieb caught my eye.



the BPM manual says to use 1N4148 on the lamp sockets. Some have 1N4001 diodes. When you say a switching diode a spark went off in my head and was wondering if this could be why the LEDs are not working.

The difference between the diodes will be the switching speed. I wouldn't think this would be a problem in this case because the system should be plenty slow enough but it's worth a try and I'm all ears if someone wants to explain otherwise.

 

[Lindsey]

Was considering upgrading my BPM to LEDs, but the problem is the solenoid / lamp driver board. When doing the LED upgrade on Xenon for example, it requires the Altek Ultimate Lamp Driver board in order for the LEDs to work correctly.

Some of the lamps will probably strobe. Some won't. You could cure it with caps across the lamps but it could be kind of a pain if there are a bunch of them to do.

I have found that the 2N5060's just can't handle the 2 lamps attached to them and blow fairly regularly. Trying to figure out the best way to replace the 2N5060's with MCR106's to cure that problem once and for all.

Just drop in the MCR106 in place of the 2N5060 using the correct pinout. No reason that shouldn't work.

I actually have a complete lamp driver board using all MCR106s designed and ready to test. I haven't done a prototype yet because it's going to cost a bunch to run the first few boards and I wasn't sure if there would be a market. My intent was to market them to people using the Bally/Stern hardware for homebrew. Maybe early next year. It wouldn't help in this case (BPM) anyway

 

[beerorkid]

None of my 2N5060's blew while trying to install LED's, the LED's would not light and putting an incandescent back in worked. I even swapped sockets. Steve Young said they do not sell those anywhere.

Do you think switching them to MCR106's would work? I have an extra lamp board and would be willing to try it.

EDIT: Lindsey addressed it above and can type fast

 

[Lindsey]

Do you think switching them to MCR106's would work? I have an extra lamp board and would be willing to try it.

I don't think that would solve your problem because they're basically the same part. One just handles more current. I'm sure if you compared the data sheets you would find all kinds of differences but fundamentally they're the same thing and I can't think of a reason why one would work in this case while the other would not. But again... I'm open to hearing good reasons why I'm wrong

I was talking about using MCR106 in cases where the 2N5060 is underrated.

 

[beerorkid]

In reality I am so over having the LEDs in the BPM. It is just one of those little things that I have not been able to figure out and it is always in the back of my mind. That machine just makes me want to cry every time I mess with it. Right now it has a mix of LED and incandescent bulbs so I could get all the lights working for a party I had.

I now have the 3rd highest score

Picking up an nintendo VS cab tonight and wrote up a signed contract with the wife to get it. New rule is one out before another can come in until we get the upstairs walls finished. Thinking BPM will be the first to go unless I can get a decent price on the Alien Poker. Need to start trading up

 

[quses]

i replaced a few of those SCRs on my baby pac. All you gotta do is do like the guide says. Look at the color of the wires going to each lamp. Find the connector that has that same color wire. Note which pin of the connector that the wire goes to. Now trace it up to the corresponding SCR. Replace SCR.

You will probably have to pull the board so you can follow the trace on the backside.

Really only takes a few minutes to replace them.

What's the best source for replacement SCRs?

 

[beerorkid]

What's the best source for replacement SCRs?

Great Plains is great. Plus they are a town away so parts show up fast.

 

[Dokert]

Just drop in the MCR106 in place of the 2N5060 using the correct pinout. No reason that shouldn't work.

I actually have a complete lamp driver board using all MCR106s designed and ready to test. I haven't done a prototype yet because it's going to cost a bunch to run the first few boards and I wasn't sure if there would be a market. My intent was to market them to people using the Bally/Stern hardware for homebrew. Maybe early next year. It wouldn't help in this case (BPM) anyway

The last group of 106's that I got the legs were to short to mount them correctly in the 2N5060 locations.

 

[Lindsey]

The last group of 106's that I got the legs were to short to mount them correctly in the 2N5060 locations.

Where there is a will there is a way.