Article on the Atari Audio Regulator SENSE mod

I haven't done the mod to any of my Atari games yet, but on games that need it, I've replaced the edge connector pins/housing. I've been thinking about doing what joeycuda mentioned and just replacing the split pins for the power related wires. Unless the housing is really trashed, the pin seems like the most important part. I've always understood Pac series housings to be crappy, but not necessarily Atari. I've gotten better at crimping and also removing the pins from the housing. Replacing the harness on a Pole Position, Red Baron, and a few JAMMA games will do that for you. ;)
 
I haven't done the mod to any of my Atari games yet, but on games that need it, I've replaced the edge connector pins/housing. I've been thinking about doing what joeycuda mentioned and just replacing the split pins for the power related wires. Unless the housing is really trashed, the pin seems like the most important part. I've always understood Pac series housings to be crappy, but not necessarily Atari. I've gotten better at crimping and also removing the pins from the housing. Replacing the harness on a Pole Position, Red Baron, and a few JAMMA games will do that for you. ;)

I got the split pins and extractor tool from Bob Roberts. The little tool is worth buying, as a tiny screwdriver is just frustrating to use and not worth messing with. The housings are usually fine. On my Tempest, I ended up replacing every split pin and using jumper wires with spade connectors between the AR2 and boardset for +5 and ground.
 
I really don't understand why someone would recommend the sense mod (which should be called the un-sense mod, since all it does is defeat the sense circuitry).
If you're worried about the resistors burning the board then why not just add 1/4A pico fuses inline with them? That way you allow the circuit to do it's job and you avoid any catastrophic failure.
And if you really want to defeat the sense and let the voltage droop until failure, there's no need to solder anything. Just clip jumper wires between the test points.
 
If you're worried about the resistors burning the board then why not just add 1/4A pico fuses inline with them? That way you allow the circuit to do it's job and you avoid any catastrophic failure.

That's not a bad idea! Something like a resettable PTC fuse. I'd like to put that in the article.
 
I got the split pins and extractor tool from Bob Roberts. The little tool is worth buying, as a tiny screwdriver is just frustrating to use and not worth messing with. The housings are usually fine. On my Tempest, I ended up replacing every split pin and using jumper wires with spade connectors between the AR2 and boardset for +5 and ground.
Yeah I got the extraction tool from Bob as well. I have to confess I went through at least 2 or 3 of them before I just recently learned how to use it without putting too much stress on it and breaking it. I found out the hard way that using a small screwdriver can damage the housing and ironically it was my sense line wire where the housing was damaged from using a screwdriver. It still worked but the pin was a bit loose and could be pushed out the bottom. I went ahead and got the proper tool and a new housing. My Crystal Castles has a few pins that could stand to be replaced next time I pull it out from the wall.
 
OK, I'll wade into this Holy War... (and where's Mark Spaeth when you need him?)

Before discussing the conclusions you reach, I'd like to discuss the electrical logic and calculations used to justify that conclusion--as I feel some aspects are flawed.

The first diagram (http://bitslicer.tripod.com/images/ar_images/ar_sense_loop1.jpg) is either incorrect or very deceiving. It shows a current path with two different values at different points on the path; which cannot happen (where did the missing current go?) Perhaps you meant to show ~6A going out the +5 line, ~6A returning on the GND line, with ~0A going out the +SENSE line, and ~0A returning on the -SENSE line.

The 2nd diagram, I follow, but I think you meant "I=~6A" to be consistent with the text (which says "...up to 6 Amps for games like..."), and to be consistent with the last diagram which shows the current splitting: 3A going out on each the +5 and the S+ line.

The power calculation, "P = I*V = 6A * 5V = 30 Watts", while mathematically true, does not appear to be electrically correct. In P=IV, the V must be the voltage drop across the component for which the calculation applys. There's no reason to assume that the voltage drop across the sense resistor is 5V (that's instead the desired voltage drop across the _PCB_, so your calculation shows the power consumed by the PCB, not the sense resistor). In fact, following your example that all current must pass through the sense resistor: The voltage drop across a 10ohm resistor with 6A flowing through it must be V = IR = 6A*10ohm = 60V, and then the power would be P=IV=6A*60V=360W. But all of that is pointless as the ARII cannot supply 60V. It would top out well before that. And since the voltage can never reach 60V, the current will never reach 6A and the power dissappated by the sense resistor would never be anywhere near 360W (or even 30W).

My analysis of an ARII with a dirty connector is explained below and in the attached diagrams and spreadsheet.

The supply is assumed to go through two parallel paths: the sense resistor (R29, 10ohm) and the "supply harness." In reality, of course it's more complicated, as there are multiple supply lines, and there is contact resistance in the sense line as well; but we'll assume a simplified case where only one contact resistance is considered (refered to as "supply harness resistance") and everything else is a perfect connection. The attached spreadsheet starts with the supply harness resistance in the first column. A range of assumed harness resistances are shown (one per row) and the remainder of the operating characteristics are calculated for each assumed harness resistance. From there, current passes through the game PCB. We'll assume it acts as just a resistive load. For purposes of this example, it is assumed to draw 6A at nominal 5V operation, and thus has a resistance of 0.833ohm (5V/6A), this is called "PCB load resistance." From there, current again forks, going through parallel paths of the return sense resistor (R30, also 10ohms) and the return harness reistance. While my spreadsheet originally contained columns for these, they are hidden in the screenshot posted here. This is to simplify matters, the return harness resistance is assumed to be 0 so all current passes through the the harness with no loss. So as described before, I'm assuming perfect connections except for the one supply harness resistance. The net resistance for the parallel resistors is calculated, R1*R2/(R1+R2) to get the "supply net resistance." (The same is done for the return, but again that is hidden as it is assumed to be zero). Then the supply net resistance and the PCB resistance are added to get the total circuit resistance.

The next column (I) is the nominal (desired) PCB voltage drop. This is, of course, the desired 5V. Column (J) is the nominal PCB current; i.e. the current needed to cause the nominal PCB voltage drop of 5V. Of course, this is always 6A (since this was the assumption we used to calculate the PCB resistance in the first place). Next, colum K, is the supply voltage required in order to sucessfully generate the desired 5V drop across the PCB. This is calculated by multiplying the nominal current (column J) by the total net resistance (column H), as in V=IR. This shows what the supply voltage would have to be in order to overcome the given harness resistance and provide 5V to the PCB... which is what the ARII tries to do. You can see that some of these supply voltages, as the harness resistance gets higher, are a bit absurd. The ARII board only gets 15V unregulated from the power block, and the LM305 datasheet recommends the output and input be no closer than 3V. So the next column (L) is the "max supply voltage." I've assumed it to be 12V here (15V-3V). Maybe it's higher, maybe it's lower--I don't really know what it'll top out at, but it's likely at least 7V but no more than 15V. Then column M is the "actual supply voltage", which is simply the "supply voltage required" (K) unless that exceeds the "max supply voltage" (L) in which case it is the latter. Column N is the actual supply current, calculated from the actual supply voltage (M) and the total net resistance (H). Note that as the harness resistance increases, the supply voltage increases and the supply current stays the same... until the max supply voltage is reached. Then, the supply voltage stays the same and the supply current drops off. Columns O & P show the voltage drops across each section of the circuit; the supply (both harness and sense resistor), and the PCB. Columns R & S show the currents in each branch of the supply: the sense resistor and the harness. Finally, columns V, W & X show the power consumed in the sense resistor, harness, and PCB.

[EDIT: BAH! The forum is resizing my attached images so they are unreadable... anyone know how to prevent that?]

Temporary links to full-size images:
http://www.finck.net/gfx/diagrams.png
http://www.finck.net/gfx/spreadsheet_calcs.png
 

Attachments

  • diagrams.jpg
    diagrams.jpg
    19.9 KB · Views: 50
  • spreadsheet_calcs.jpg
    spreadsheet_calcs.jpg
    20.2 KB · Views: 42
Last edited:
Wow this is fantastic! Thanks very much for taking the time to re-analyze the numbers. I have to admit that I threw the article together in haste and didn't think the one calculation through properly.

The first diagram (http://bitslicer.tripod.com/images/ar_images/ar_sense_loop1.jpg) is either incorrect or very deceiving. It shows a current path with two different values at different points on the path; which cannot happen (where did the missing current go?) Perhaps you meant to show ~6A going out the +5 line, ~6A returning on the GND line, with ~0A going out the +SENSE line, and ~0A returning on the -SENSE line.

I can see how the diagram is misleading. It should show the full 6A of current flowing through the pcb in addition to a negligible amount of current flowing back to the sense circuit.

The 2nd diagram, I follow, but I think you meant "I=~6A" to be consistent with the text (which says "...up to 6 Amps for games like..."), and to be consistent with the last diagram which shows the current splitting: 3A going out on each the +5 and the S+ line.

Good catch.

The power calculation, "P = I*V = 6A * 5V = 30 Watts", while mathematically true, does not appear to be electrically correct.

I think you nailed it. One thing to note in the diagram is that under normal operating conditions the value of the sense resistors would dwarf the contact resistance so you really only have one resistor and not two in parallel. But as you show in the spreadsheet as the contact gets worse and the resistance increases, now you do have essentially two resistors in parallel, until the contact melts down and then you have one again. :)

OK, I'll wade into this Holy War... (and where's Mark Spaeth when you need him?)

I don't look at it as a holy war so much as a complicated issue wrapped in a mystery. There are pros and cons to sense mod vs. not, but the real issue is for folks to make an informed decision based on understanding the reasoning behind it. I think you've furthered that cause.

And I think Mark is banned, again, for some strange reason. *
 
Last edited:
This thread reminded me.

I had a Pole Position repaired by D.M. and he showed me how to sense mod. Being clueless about these things I thought that this would be all I needed to do.

So has anyone posted instructions/pics anywhere on the specifics of bypassing the edge connector's GND and +5 connections?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Well, I didn't ask for Coca Cola's secret formula. :D

Anyone? Connectors used? Exact locations on the PCBs?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
This thread reminded me.

I had a Pole Position repaired by D.M. and he showed me how to sense mod. Being clueless about these things I thought that this would be all I needed to do.

So has anyone posted instructions/pics anywhere on the specifics of bypassing the edge connector's GND and +5 connections?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Are there GND and +5 test points on your AR2? Are there GND and +5 test points on the PCBs? If so, you just need to tie them together with wire and the appropriate spade connectors. I like to use green for ground and red or black for +5, just to look neat.
 
Are there GND and +5 test points on your AR2? Are there GND and +5 test points on the PCBs? If so, you just need to tie them together with wire and the appropriate spade connectors. I like to use green for ground and red or black for +5, just to look neat.

I don't think every board and Ar-2 has test points.
 
the rev 03 is missing the test points that the 02 has

From what I read OPs didn't like that so Atari put the test points back on subsequent revisions.

I've taken a break from Pole Position and since I'm trying to get my Millipede up and running at the moment, below are the images of the boards involved with all power points labeled.

(The upside-down AR PCB is for my Pole Position, and shows the modification as it was explained to me by Dick Millikan).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

Attachments

  • Atari Millipede PCB.jpg
    Atari Millipede PCB.jpg
    87 KB · Views: 44
  • Atari Regulator - Audio PCB - A035435-02.JPG
    Atari Regulator - Audio PCB - A035435-02.JPG
    93.8 KB · Views: 60
  • Pole Position R29 & R30.jpg
    Pole Position R29 & R30.jpg
    66.4 KB · Views: 51
Last edited:
I see all the pictures.

I couldn't get the site at all earlier, but it's working now.

Anyway, whether you do the sense circuit or not, you have to probably replace and definitely keep your edge connector clean. And if you do, what reason would the Sense circuit have to up the voltage or cause it to fluctuate which can ruin your game board?

If your AR PCB is testing correct voltages and your edge connector is good but your game board voltage readings are too low, then wouldn't that mean there is something wrong with your game board and it still wouldn't be a good idea for a Sense circuit to up the voltage then.

If my game board was failing, I'd like to know it as opposed to having more power sent to it to keep it going.

Obviously the Atari engineers knew that surface oxidation would progressively increase resistance, so why didn't they know that upping the voltage really doesn't defeat that resistance, and only creates a heat problem?

It seems that a Sense circuit would have better served by just putting a ceiling on the voltage and nothing else, providing there exists a possibility of a condition developing in which too much voltage could occur.

FWIW, I'm of the school of bypassing the edge connectors GND and +5 connections. I use one of those computer hard drive power supply extension cables, cut it in half and solder in as needed.

I'm trying to visualize this. Any pics? :D

...And if you really want to defeat the sense and let the voltage droop until failure, there's no need to solder anything. Just clip jumper wires between the test points.

What test points on the AR PCB? I see nothing that says "+5VDC". Only -5VDC.

And as for my Pole Position PCBs. I just wanted to make sure that I have a good start as shown in the images below.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

Attachments

  • Pole Position Top.jpg
    Pole Position Top.jpg
    95.8 KB · Views: 13
  • Pole Position Bottom.jpg
    Pole Position Bottom.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 14
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom