Armor Attack replace tantalum capacitor with electrolytic?

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Armor Attack replace tantalum capacitor with electrolytic?

I'm working on getting my Armor Attack working, and I need to replace a blown/broken tantalum capacitor on the monitor board. I'm going through the Cinematronics vector monitor faq (page 28, http://www.andysarcade.de/data/companies/cinematronics_vectorbeam/cine_faq_v096.pdf) and it mentions to replace the tantalums with a 33uf 50v electrolytic cap.

Only problem is there are several tantalums, all with different uf values. According to the manual the cap I need to replace is a 2.2uf 35v cap at C4 (page 57, http://www.outerworldarcade.com/arcade/cinematronics/manuals/armor_attack_manual.pdf).

Is it ok to replace a 2.2uf 35v tantalum cap with a 33uf 50v cap?
 
This is a better resource for you ->

http://www.biltronix.com/arcade_electcomp_08.html

You can't go wrong if you follow "Bill's advice". :)

The general rule for electrolytic caps is "same capacitance, same or Higher voltage rating".
(Also should consider same or better ripple current rating; similar lead pitch / diameter / height etc; use 105degC from a reputable vendor; 3000hr or better would be nice too).
 
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i personally wouldn't replace tantalum caps with electrolytic.
 
you CAN NOT replace tantalum with electrolytic capacitors
if you could, why wouldn't they install electrolytic in the first place

the reason why you cant is that the tantalum keeps the signal from oscillating

I've read here on the forum or others, instances where peoples have replaced the tantalum with electro and had success. no word on how long that lasts in an arcade situation.


update us on whatever your solution is plz


good luck
 
Well, can't say if the replacement was a success yet or not.

My Armor Attack was tripping the breaker with the yoke attached, and according the troubleshooting FAQ, it was something to do with the circuit around the heat sink output transistors. I went ahead and replaced all 4 of them. R119 was burnt, so I replaced it as well, and C4 was popped, so I replaced it with a 33uf 50v electrolytic cap, per the recommendations in the FAQ.

Now when I turn on the game it doesn't pop the breaker immediately. I just get a really bright single dot on the screen that starts on the upper right 3rd of the monitor, and then slowly creeps down the screen. When it reaches the bottom edge and disappears, the breaker pops.

So I'm a little further, but not sure what to look at next.
 
Bill's guide, which I used on my board, replaces tantalums with electrolytics. I've been replacing tants with electrolytics in stereos & amps for years with no perceived issues.
 
Bill's guide, which I used on my board, replaces tantalums with electrolytics. I've been replacing tants with electrolytics in stereos & amps for years with no perceived issues.

Yeh, what blackcat said.

Back in the day, they used TANTs as the electrolytic technology was not equivalent for ESR, inductance etc.

Nowadays, as these caps likely are only for DC bulk (around the linear regulators etc), I would use good quality electrolytics over TANTs (which are still more sensitive to ripple, thermals, and over-voltage failure) than Ecaps.

As I said before, follow Bill's guide and you cannot go wrong ...

YMMV
 
Thanks everyone, I think the electrolytic is doing its job, now I need to start YetAnotherArmorAttackThread to figure out my spot woes...
 
Atari vectors draw their vectors from the middle of the screen.
Cine vectors draw their vectors from the top right corner of the screen.

You need to read Bill's Star Castle webpage, and replace more than just caps and the main deflection transistors on the chassis. Most important are the smaller drive transistors, and perhaps the difficult to find DAC(s).
Check for burnt (or out-of-spec) resistors too.

http://www.biltronix.com/star_castle_3.html
 
I've been replacing tants with electrolytics in stereos & amps for years with no perceived issues.

they used TANTs as the electrolytic technology was not equivalent for ESR, inductance etc.

I would use good quality electrolytics over TANTs (which are still more sensitive to ripple, thermals, and over-voltage failure) than Ecaps

great stuff
thank you
 
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