Armor Attack power supply

TimePiloteer

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I picked up an Armor Attack non working this weekend. The owner mentioned having to reset the red circuit breakers more and more frequently until it finally just stopped working.

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It's a different power supply than I've seen pictures of before. It has two fuses on it, although the manual only mentions one 3amp fuse to replace. The fuse on the right is present and good, and shows ".5 amp" on the label, the fuse on the left is missing and reads 5amps. Has anyone seen this supply before, and knows what kind of fuses I need for it?

Also wondering what a rebuild of this will entail. Does anyone make a cap kit for it? There are two huge big blue caps in it, are those recommended to replace in a rebuild, similar to Atari big blues? What are good replacements for the circuit breakers?

Thanks for any help with this.
 
That looks very similar to PS that was in my Space War, though mine was black, not silver. I was able to rebuild it but I had to order the parts myself from Mouser or Digikey. Pictures here: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=3390363&postcount=5

I did replace the big blue caps. New caps of the same value are pricey at around $40 each. They also don't fit the metal retaining cages as they are narrower. Someone told me you can buy caps of a higher value that will fit the existing cages. If I were rebuilding another one I'd probably do that.

The real pain in rebuilding these is that the small board under the top plate is actually soldered onto that bottlecap transistor. So you'll have to desolder it and then remove screws in order to replace the caps on that board (and the big transistor).

Also, I don't think there are exact replacements for the two push-button fuses. Not sure what you could do if those need to be replaced.
 
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that looks like the cinematronics used in jack and the giant killer and others. i worked on a few of these many years ago and they were common for cold solder joints and the traces would be vaporized in places. i would pull the pcb, recap and reflow, check all traces, check the bridge rectifier in the bottom, (i never had the two large screw terminal caps test bad nor the i think 1K resistors across them even though they looked cooked to death). the rainbow looking film caps were always cracked and had issues and i think there is a 100ohm resistor i had bad on a couple and the BR bad too on some. hope this helps to start looking.
 
I think that's a Data Power power supply. I've got one I'm working on for a Star Castle. There are some schematics for it here:

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/S/StarCastle.pdf

Page 66. Not much, I know. There isn't a lot of info on these form my findings.

Yep, that's the one.

I recapped the power supply and checked the resistors and HOT on this - all checked out OK.

There was a resistor at R14 marked in the schematics as a 100K resistor, but on the board it was the same as the 1.00 K resistor at R15. I think it was a typo in the schematic.

I tested the bridge recitifier and it was shorted, and after replacing it, I am no longer blowing the 5amp slo blo fuse.

The power is now good, and the board seems to boot but the game is playing blind. Starting a new thread for that in the Monitors section...
 
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