Arkanoid Cocktail Monitor Help

djsolzs

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Hi All!

I just picked up a Arkanoid cocktail conversion in a 1982 Sega/Gremlin cabinet.

I have of course read through other posts and have read alot about similar issues but wanted to get some opinions about my particular issue:

Symptoms:

1. Monitor powers on and then shuts down after warming up (if sitting unplugged might stay on all of 5 mins)
2. Ive had the game on long enough to complete the first level... then it goes off when trying to go to second level (not sure if this is a coincidence)
2. Monitor has great color but picture is wavy
3. No neck glow after the monitor turns black (or turns off)
4. Game remains on... sound plays.. game plays just cannot see the game

My Plan:

Cap Kit - I understand this is my first step and may fix the wavy screen issue
Check power - looks like new power supply already installed
Check the HOT
Check the +B voltage

Has anyone had this exact same problem with their machine shutting off... no neck glow? Seems to me this means monitor is losing power? If I immediately plug back in it shuts off after seconds. I've got a lot of things to check so I wanted to get opinions on what the most likely issue area is. Any advice based on your experience would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thank you!

Also - not sure what kind of monitor it is... it has both japanese and english writing that says danger... where does one usually identify the model? (I am new to monitor repair but have electrical experience)
 
sounds like a universal chassis in the tube.
but with out picks or knowing what model it is we don't know where to start giving help.

yes a cap kit cant hurt and re-flow of solder on the hot, vr, and header pins cant hurt.

if its running for a couple minutes the hot and vr should be ok.

Peace
Buffett
 
Thank you so much for the advice! Its good to hear I can eliminate some of the possibilities!

Pictures are going to be posted tomorrow... hope you can maybe check it out then. Ill do my best to look at the frame and find the model... I understand its to hard to diagnose without knowing.

Your help is much appreciated!
 
Pictures of monitor... Im trying to figure out what model I am looking at but cant seem to exactly match it up. I am using the links from Ken Layton... I am hoping someone can identify this based on experience. Again.. any help is much appreciated! Thanks all!
 

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no looks like the same family but not the same chassis.

you may have to make your own cap list for it.

just take a sharpie and a pencil. after you get the uf and voltage reading on the cap rite it down with the location and then use the sharpie and put a dot on that cap and move to the next one. repeat until you have got all the caps.

then order the caps you need and install them. and post the list so others can have it when needed.

Peace
Buffett
 
Thanks Buffet your quick response is a true service! I will start the cap marking tmrw and post... I am supposed to identify all of the capacitors and label them basically... correct?

IMG02791 has 2 capacitors soldered to eachother... since Im new to this Im not sure I understand why... can anyone explain? Why solder the legs of one to another and then to the board?
 

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that's probably because who ever caped it before did not have the correct value and used two caps to do the job.

i don't rember the formula to figure out what it needs. but post the two values and some one here should be able to tell what it is.

yes all the electrolytic caps. and they're locations so that some one else can try and id it by the cap list.

Peace
Buffett
 
Thanks Buffet I will post the caps values this evening.

Do I have an odd board or is it just hard to tell what it is exactly? I understand the cap kit is the first step... but do you think that the cap kit is going to fix my problem or should I be looking into other problematic areas? If someone has potentially replaced the caps already maybe my issue is elsewhere?... you are the expert Im just curious what my plan should be for moving forward with diagnosing.

Once again... Thanks!!!!
 
caps fix alot of things yes.

wile you have it out look it over for big resisters. your H.O.T, VR, the with coil and other things that look like they get hot from use. like any thing on a heat sink. these things will have cold solder joints from time to time so re-flow them wile you have it out

re-flow any solder joint that looks dull it may have cracks in it. and if you aren't sure re-flow it any way it cant hurt.

also take a good look over the whole chassis to see if it was ever broke at some point. if you see any traces bridged make sure to do a continuity check on them. and if in doubt re-flow them.

just don't add so much you bridge any thing together that is not on the same trace.

take your time and do a good job and you will be fine.

Peace
Buffett
 
Additional Monitor info:

Nanao KB240331C

Seems like nobody had posted much on this model... I will do my best to document..

See picture for model # (Can't believe I missed this first post)
 

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I've been working through documenting this monitor chassis as I begin to pull it out. i started testing the fuses with continuity... I had the game on by accident and when I touched one of the leads to a fuse next to where the power supply comes into the board I got a spark which in turn blew a fuse that now prevents the power supply from turning on. Ive located the fuse and am planning on replacing tomrrow and hoping it didnt cause more damage.

Any thoughts?

Is this something that can tell me I have a short somewhere... or did I just do a dumb thing by trying to test continuity with the power on... Im guessing its the later.

Also, when I pulled the monitor out of the cabinet .... the colors began to change and the picture got all messed up. Is this a symptom of bad caps (I have them on the way)

Thanks to everyone in advance as I work through this repair!
 
lets hope it was just the fuse.

you created a dead short when you did that. so hope it did not toast any thing in the path on the chassis that you shorted other than the fuse.

does your meeter still work ok measure something known and see like a wall wort or something that has the output printed on it. to verify your meeter is still in spec.

test that first so you know you did not smoke your meeter.

Peace
Buffett
 
Thank you for the assistance through this process buffet!

I tested household outlet and AA battery and they both seem to read correctly on the multimeter... THANK GOD cause I just bought this new one as it is digital.

Im headed to radio shack to grab that fuse... Im really hoping it works as it did before and I didnt cause myself more problems.

Any ideas on the off coloring? it happened right when I propped the monitor up and turned it on... I did this cause I wanted to test the b+ voltage before I pull the chassis out.
 
Fuse replaced... game turns on and actually stays on for longer than it ever has.

I also cleaned out the inside of the Cab... blew off some of the dust on the chassis... maybe that helped.

New Finding - if I fiddle with the connections on the PCB itself the game reacts weird like the connections are not secure. colors will change and the controls start acting funny... Is this simply a connection issue or something bigger? Just learning as I go through... Thanks again!
 
yes that sounds like a connection issue. you may have to replace the harness.

but first try this.

use a small jewelers type of flat head screwdriver. and remove the pins from the harness then bend the wiper out from the body of the pin and reinsert it.
do that for all the pins in the harness.

if you cant get the pins out of the harness. take a small dental pick type of tool. and ever so gently get behind the wiper blades in the harness. and gently bend them back toward the center of the harness. this will create more tension on the PCB when plugging the harness back on.

also when you have the monitor out of the cap and move it wile its on you will need to degauss it when your are done. but don't worry about that rite now. it needs to stay running first. so one thing at a time.

also if that new fuse kept it working longer check all the fuse holders they may be weak. and not holding the fuses in tight. that will stress components and lead to premature deaths.

#1 get the monitor running. :cap kit and re-flow the connectors Ect...
#2 fix the harness intermittent problems. :tweak the pins or re-jamma it
#3 worry about degaussing the monitor after re installment in the cab. not a big issue till done with #1 and #2.

keep at it sounds like your finding problems that need resolved. that's a good thing. when your done you'll love the game even more.

Peace
Buffett
 
Buffet,

You. Are. Awesome!

I will keep at it! Hopefully Bob will be sending me the cap kit shortly and I will get those in... in the meantime I am cleaning cabinet trying to make it pretty.

I still have not tested the b+ voltage as I have not found the test pin yet... but I plan to figure that out tonight/tomorrow and then take the monitor chassis out completely. I will then be further documenting the board itself.

Any chance you know where this is? I think I found the b+ pot but its covered in glue. Ive attached new pics. Can you look and let me know if Im looking in the right place?

I think I understand the bending of the harness... however Im not sure how comfortable I am taking the pins out... Ive tried that before installing car stereos and it didnt work out so well! I may start with your second approach as I understand what you are saying... although monitor is first priority!
 

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