Arena pin will not start a game after battery removal.

Thanks- I'd read online that you shouldn't run system 80b boards without the other components connected, so I was hesitant to do that here. But I will try as it looks like I have nothing to lose now :(
 
Ok, I'll take your word for it. I've never owned or worked on Gottlieb games. Seems like an odd situation though?

Start by removing the obvious choice, the board you worked on
 
Thanks- I'd read online that you shouldn't run system 80b boards without the other components connected, so I was hesitant to do that here. But I will try as it looks like I have nothing to lose now :(
I've never heard something like this
 
Not sure if this pin requires the batt to boot, but my game now only powers up to GI.

For those who weren't following my batt removal process, the machine was turned off when I started removing the battery from the pcb. All connectors were off of the board except for the one going to the digital display. My thought had been that I'd lay it down on the pin glass, desolder, remove component, and be on my way. It didn't go like that.. Touching the pins with the desoldering tool caused smoke and electrical issues. I've never had that happen in my time working on games. The game had not been played in about 48 hours, but there must still have been a charge in the battery.

I'm trying to check fuses now, but this is exactly why I was hoping not to have to muck with the battery 😕
I'm still wondering about what happened originally, how did you end up with smoke and "electrical issues" removing a battery? What do you mean by electrical issues?
 
Steps I took:

1.Disconnected all connectors from mpu but connector to display (at bottom of mpu)

2. Removed digital display and laid face down on glass

3. Laid mpu down on digital display back and frame, with component side down facing digital display back

4. Game was powered off but plugged in.

5. When I began to desolder, and put the tool on the pins, there was a loud buzz that I was totally unprepared for. When I pulled the tool off, smoke floated out from the component side of the board, exiting at the bottom of the board where the display connector was still hooked up. I tried a 2nd time to finish removing the battery and it happened again, this time less severe. Guessing either contact with the tool, or components touching between mpu and digital display grounded something while I was desoldering.
 
A buzz.. weird. What tool are you using to solder/desolder? Have you used it to work on boards before? Out of curiosity was it plugged into the service outlet on the pinball?

There aren't even any significant capacitors on the control or display boards that could have been discharging to cause this. Can't understand what happened.
 
It's like one of these. Mine's older but same concept. It was plugged into a power strip separate from the machine.Screenshot_20250813_104624_Chrome.jpg
 
The only thing I can think of is the soldering iron leaked 120V through the tip into the board.
To the OP. Check continuity between the tip of the desoldering tool (any of the metal will do) and each prong on the power plug. Continuity to either prong would be bad. Doubly so if the plug is not polarized.
 
Thanks guys very much for the intel.

Interestingly enough, Sirius XM played this song for me this AM. Looks like Peter has my back as well

 
I'm confused.... Why wouldn't you completely disconnect the board before working on it?
I know that in retrospect that I chose poorly, but going on the fact that everything plastic breaks, I wanted to lessen damage to anything that I really didn't need to mess with. I really couldn't think of how there'd be potential for electrical damage in doing what I was doing, being the game was off and there was no power connection to the mpu. I can't ever remember having this outcome working on any other game that I have :(
 
If a connector breaks just from unplugging it, then it was time to replace it anyway.
Also, while you've got the board out to work on, that's a good time to clean the edge connectors on the PCB.
 
I'm going to do the steps provided today when I get home from work. If it ends up being the MPU, Coin Op Cauldron is standing by. I just want this thing fixed :(
 
I pulled all connectors that attach to the MPU with the exception of the 1 at J1. The fuse lasted for 99 seconds before glowing.

Do I pull the J1 connector off and try again to see if it's before the MPU?

Edit: newermind I'll pull everything but the power supply and try again.
 
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Minor progress! With all disconnected but the power supply board (top center) and the aux power board (A5), the F2 fuse didn't blow! I think I'm going to try the sound board next and then unhook it again.
 
Hooked up sound board and let it go for 100 second count, board LED was on and no fuse issue. I'm disconnecting the sound board and moving to the MPU, next.
 
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