Are these two neck board sockets compatible?

MaximRecoil

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necksockets.jpg


The one on the right is from a 1980s Sanyo TV, and the one on the left is from a Sanyo 20-Z2AW.

The one from the TV says on it:

4176
E3286A
HOSIDEN
MADE IN JAPAN

The one from the 20-Z2AW says on it:

4036
E3501
HOSIDEN
MADE IN JAPAN

They have different numbers but they look the same. Is there an internal difference?
 
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No electrical difference. As long as the pins line up with the holes in the board correctly (or can be bent to line up with the holes, heh), you can swap them.

Do you have a bad socket on the Sanyo?

-Ian
 
No electrical difference. As long as the pins line up with the holes in the board correctly (or can be bent to line up with the holes, heh), you can swap them.

Perfect. Thanks.

Do you have a bad socket on the Sanyo?

The Sanyo 20-Z2AW's socket is missing its white wire that goes to the flyback transformer, and the mounting tab for it is all mangled and the surrounding plastic is melted because apparently someone tried to remove it with a soldering iron and they didn't have much luck (it ended up just being cut off). It is a parts chassis with a broken neck board and a missing flyback transformer, but I'm going to see if I can fix it. I'll start by replacing that socket with the one from the Sanyo TV neck board.
 
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Ah. Yeah, that's a good reason to replace the socket.

There are lots of different looking neckboard sockets - usually they just differ by the way the focus wire attaches to them, or are just different brands. These two appear to be almost exactly the same thing, just probably made at different times for different markets, and probably slightly differ somehow, like wall thickness or pin length or something simple. All neckboard sockets just connect straight down to the board though, there aren't any that cross the pins around - that would be silly and expensive to make.

There are even a couple of tubes that have the same pinout but different socket connectors... so you can cheat and replace the neck socket on the arcade board with the one from the TV you took the tube from, if you run into one of those tubes in a swap.

Similarly, some neckboards have the traces and holes drilled for both narrow and large neck tubes, and you can usually swap the socket to use the chassis on one or the other type tube (assuming you have a compatible yoke).

-Ian
 
Ah. Yeah, that's a good reason to replace the socket.

There are lots of different looking neckboard sockets - usually they just differ by the way the focus wire attaches to them, or are just different brands. These two appear to be almost exactly the same thing, just probably made at different times for different markets, and probably slightly differ somehow, like wall thickness or pin length or something simple. All neckboard sockets just connect straight down to the board though, there aren't any that cross the pins around - that would be silly and expensive to make.

There are even a couple of tubes that have the same pinout but different socket connectors... so you can cheat and replace the neck socket on the arcade board with the one from the TV you took the tube from, if you run into one of those tubes in a swap.

Similarly, some neckboards have the traces and holes drilled for both narrow and large neck tubes, and you can usually swap the socket to use the chassis on one or the other type tube (assuming you have a compatible yoke).

-Ian

Thanks for the information.

By the way, I checked a different Nintendo Sanyo chassis, and its socket has a different set of numbers than both of the ones in the picture, despite being identical to both of them. So I guess those numbers don't mean much.

I got the socket changed, but it looks like the white wire on the replacement socket is too short to reach the flyback on the Nintendo Sanyo chassis. So I'm going to have to replace the wire. It isn't ordinary wire though, it is 10K VDC, 80°C wire (22 AWG). I don't know where to find that, and I also don't want to buy a whole roll of it because I only need like a foot or so.
 
I got the socket changed, but it looks like the white wire on the replacement socket is too short to reach the flyback on the Nintendo Sanyo chassis.

The wire shouldn't stay with the socket - just use the existing focus wire from the Sanyo... unless that was suitably damaged with the previous repairman's attempt to solder it back to the socket.

The end of the socket comes apart, and you can solder the focus wire to that lug under the guard. It does carry fairly high voltage, so you need to use suitable wire. Avoid splicing if at all possible. You can get away with it though, but you need to insulate it in multiple layers of heat shrink and tape...

-Ian
 
If you're just going to throw away the damaged socket, let me know. I'll take it and use it to make a B&K adapter out of it.

Thanks,

-STG
 
The wire shouldn't stay with the socket - just use the existing focus wire from the Sanyo... unless that was suitably damaged with the previous repairman's attempt to solder it back to the socket.

I can't because the original flyback and focus assembly are missing from the chassis, and I assume the original wire is with the flyback and focus assembly, wherever they may be. I have a couple of spare used flybacks and focus assemblies around here that I can use, but of course they don't have that wire, because it normally stays with the neck board.

The end of the socket comes apart, and you can solder the focus wire to that lug under the guard. It does carry fairly high voltage, so you need to use suitable wire. Avoid splicing if at all possible. You can get away with it though, but you need to insulate it in multiple layers of heat shrink and tape...

Yeah, I just want to find the correct type of wire and solder it to the tab that is under the guard on the socket. I'd rather not splice splice high voltage wire. I found suitable wire at e.g. Mouser and Digi-Key, but it is only available in 100' or 1000' rolls for like $250 to $600. AlphaWire makes some. I see on their site they have a "request samples" page, so maybe I can get a couple of feet of it from them for free or just the cost of shipping. I know that requesting samples works beautifully with the Molex company for example.

If you're just going to throw away the damaged socket, let me know. I'll take it and use it to make a B&K adapter out of it.

If you want to pay for shipping you can have it. I'd want to put it in a small box to ship so it doesn't get crushed along the way. I can use one of those little Molex samples boxes that I have kicking around here. Keep in mind that the mounting tab for the wire is mangled and the surrounding plastic is melted, and it is missing its little plastic guard piece:

socketm.jpg
 
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If you want to pay for shipping you can have it. I'd want to put it in a small box to ship so it doesn't get crushed along the way. I can use one of those little Molex samples boxes that I have kicking around here. Keep in mind that the mounting tab for the wire is mangled and the surrounding plastic is melted, and it is missing its little plastic guard piece:

socketm.jpg

No big deal, I can work with that. Between an exacto knife, a few dabs of solder, and some pastic epoxy, I'm sure I can get a wire on there that'll function enough to make a rejuvenator adapter. It certainly doesn't need to be of the same structural integrity for a B&K adapter than it would need to be to carry the focus voltage continually in service on a neckboard.

Good job on the photo, by the way. Very nice macro.

PM Sent...
 
I got one of my Nintendo Sanyo parts chassis working. I've had it laying in a box since late 2005. I won an auction for cheap that included 2 of them (one 20-Z2AW and one 20-EZV), both broken from being stepped on, because I needed the flyback transformer off the 20-Z2AW.

I've been working on and off on one of them for a few days (broken corner on the neck board and several breaks on the main board), bridging broken traces using snipped capacitor legs (or insulated wire for when the bridge had to be run near or over the top of other solder joints). I used capacitor legs whenever I could because it adds structural support across the break.

I bridged probably 20 or more broken traces and I figured it was plenty likely for me to have made a mistake such as missing a break somewhere (I kept discovering breaks I'd previously not noticed as I went along). I also had to fix a lot of bad soldering (including bad repairs and mangled, lifted, or missing pads) from the previous "handy men" that had messed with it.

I seemed to be done with the repairs, and I figured I could keep staring at it, checking/rechecking my work and looking for breaks I may have missed, or I could just try it out and see what happens. I hooked it up to a tube/frame and connected SPO to it and turned it on. I got a thin bright line across the horizontal axis. Well that was better than I was expecting (I thought that "completely dead" was most likely).

I checked the service switch (or whatever it is called) on the chassis, and sure enough, it was not in the "normal" position. I corrected that and turned the SPO on again, and the game came right up on the screen. There was a little foldover on the top and I couldn't get the image very sharp with the focus pot (it needs a new flyback; I could tell that before I even tried it due to the area around the anode wire where the plastic is crumbling away, along with some hairline cracks), but the colors were good and everything else seemed fine.

I now have 5 complete working Nintendo Sanyo monitors in the house, and 2 chassis that I still need to attempt to fix. I'm going to need a couple of those connectors/boots for the focus assembly before I can do that though. Also, I'm out of tubes/frames, which kind of sucks. I do have the bare tube from that Sanyo TV which does work, but I have no more frames.
 
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