Are these crap? Pinball Insert Kits on Ebay?

I am not a big fan of insert decals or any stickers that go on playfields BUT in some cases if the insert artwork is too complex to airbrush/hand paint.

Classic Arcades (Jeff) makes good stuff. He sells these two ways. If you are going to clear coat on top of them you need to request the thin ones. If you are not going to clear coat on top you need to get the ones with the extra clear mylar top surface.
 
Classic Arcades (Jeff) makes good stuff. He sells these two ways. If you are going to clear coat on top of them you need to request the thin ones. If you are not going to clear coat on top you need to get the ones with the extra clear mylar top surface.

Very good to know.
 
I've purchased inserts from this very same company.
Let me first say that using the LICENSED selling point doesn't mean shit.
I purchased a set for a Funhouse pf restoration project. I'm glad I actually compared the original artwork to the replacement insert artwork. For the most part it's right on the money, but I found this "kit" was missing 3 inserts and there was ~4 inserts that the artwork was "generic" in comparison to the original.
My point is while Jeff is a good guy - licensed doesn;t mean accurate either.
 
Brian, I listened to your presentation at Expo and took note of your concerns about using stickers. Have you considered or attempted to silkscreen the artwork on inserts or some playfield areas? Here is an RGP user's practice attempts. I think it looks promising.

http://photos.scriptpirate.com/GalleryThumbnails.aspx?gallery=564947

The screens could be reused which would make them a worthwhile investment for often restored games. You could purchase reproduction stickers and use them to make the screens. It would eliminate concerns about adhesion of the clear coat to the stickers. Of course larger and more detailed stickers such as the ones in the first post would be more difficult and perhaps that is what you are more concerned about.
 
Classic Arcades (Jeff) makes good stuff. He sells these two ways. If you are going to clear coat on top of them you need to request the thin ones. If you are not going to clear coat on top you need to get the ones with the extra clear mylar top surface.

I've seen or used several sets of his insert decals, and while they're certainly better than a worn to hell playfield, I wouldn't call them "good stuff". Colors wrong, sizes wrong (not even large enough to cover the insert itself in most cases), fonts wrong, etc. There are major flaws with his insert decals.

Again, much better than nothing at all...

Wade
 
Man, I'd like to have a Fire.

I used to play the hound out of one (in the early 90s) at this little rinky-dink mom & pop convenience store near where my Mother lived.
 
I've seen or used several sets of his insert decals, and while they're certainly better than a worn to hell playfield, I wouldn't call them "good stuff". Colors wrong, sizes wrong (not even large enough to cover the insert itself in most cases), fonts wrong, etc. There are major flaws with his insert decals.

Again, much better than nothing at all...

Wade


This is my experience with decals
 
Expect them to be used in conjunction with some additional touch ups and a clear coat over them. Also, to do it right, you'll need to scrape or sand the old insert ink off and reglue the insert so that, without the original ink and clear, it sits flush with the playfield paint. Probably the best way to do this is to remove the insert, flip it over on wet sandpaper, and sand it. This will remove the old ink and clear and take care of any concave or convex of the plastic. Reglue it in the playfield, flush. Apply insert decals, touch up if necessary, clear coat playfield.. Not something to be done in one weekend!
 
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