are monitors like gold now?

I have thrown away like 30 tubes in the last 5 years. I literally couldn't get people to take most of them for free. Unless it was a 100 percent burn free tested and working drop in for a G07 for free they just didn't want it.
 
No. Buy crap / broken / converted games on CL for monitors. :)

that's a good point lol.. btw good job on fixing that sound eprom :p

I'm in a similar situation with my converted neogeo.. hoping to find one with a 25 or 26" crt to swap over lol until that point, I'm usung a lcd temporary
 
Well, I think he means "series", and yes, not all yokes are wound that way (parallel vertical windings that you can easily separate and wire in series)- but if they are, it works fine (I have done it a few times now). You end up going from around 14 ohms to around 52 ohms vertical. Horizontal stays where it was and hopefully matches a G07 @ close to 2.2 ohms. If you use a yoke that has closer to 3 or 3.5 ohms it starts to have horizontal sizing and position problems that you may need to change a few components on the chassis to correct.

How about a little more detail here.

I'm pretty sure this isn't how this works.
 
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The difference in collecting, with regards to monitors

20 yrs ago - If you need another monitor, get one with less screen burn from another game, or even pay $200/shipped for a brand new one from Arcadeshop, etc. I never bought a new one, that seemed like way too much $.

Now - Either a) Learn to swap yokes and converge, using a thrift store TV tube; b) Find a direct swap TV tube for a k7000 or something; c) Use an old frame, a TV tube, and a universal chassis
 
The difference in collecting, with regards to monitors

20 yrs ago - If you need another monitor, get one with less screen burn from another game, or even pay $200/shipped for a brand new one from Arcadeshop, etc. I never bought a new one, that seemed like way too much $.

Now - Either a) Learn to swap yokes and converge, using a thrift store TV tube; b) Find a direct swap TV tube for a k7000 or something; c) Use an old frame, a TV tube, and a universal chassis

For the record, if someone comes here reading about tube swaps, direct swaps for the K7000 are pretty easy. Always a safe bet. :)
 
Well, I think he means "series", and yes, not all yokes are wound that way (parallel vertical windings that you can easily separate and wire in series)- but if they are, it works fine (I have done it a few times now). You end up going from around 14 ohms to around 52 ohms vertical. Horizontal stays where it was and hopefully matches a G07 @ close to 2.2 ohms. If you use a yoke that has closer to 3 or 3.5 ohms it starts to have horizontal sizing and position problems that you may need to change a few components on the chassis to correct.

My view of it is that the yoke coils represent an output device to an electronic circuit designed to provide a voltage/current signal to a known load to generate a very precise changing magnetic field.

By changing the electrical characteristics of the coil, you may be producing more or less load on the output circuitry or creating a field outside of the intended range. It seems like this could lead to linearity and size issues or potential overheating in the circuitry.

I suppose, in the end, that the proof is in the pudding.
Practical results appear to trump engineering theory here.

If it works, it works, right? I just wouldn't think that you can change the coil parameters very much without running into the issues I mentioned above.
 
Agreed. I did two of them. Only thing I had to do was use a different Horizontal Width Cap C39 on the board to get it to fill the screen. No yoke/ring adjustments/swaps needed. K7000's are pretty nice in that regard.
 
Yes, all true. However, there seems to be a fairly large grey area and wiggle room in horiz/vert readings that will work in tube swaps. It depends on the monitor, but as long as you are close, most of the time it is worth a try.

But you are right, if you really want to dig into exact wire composition, diameter, number of turns, turn spacing, ferrite size, yoke shape, etc., and you want to discuss impedance, resistance, current, voltage, mag field strength, oscillations, resonance, slew rate, etc, etc, etc, then yes, the devil is in the details and the "swap" might not be the ideal match to the chassis, LOL :rolleyes::eek::D

BTW, the ones I have done for G07's I have used a CRT and yoke out of a donor TV where the yoke already had a spare middle lug ready. Almost as if the yoke was generic and was meant to be wound series or parallel...

My view of it is that the yoke coils represent an output device to an electronic circuit designed to provide a voltage/current signal to a known load to generate a very precise changing magnetic field.

By changing the electrical characteristics of the coil, you may be producing more or less load on the output circuitry or creating a field outside of the intended range. It seems like this could lead to linearity and size issues or potential overheating in the circuitry.

I suppose, in the end, that the proof is in the pudding.
Practical results appear to trump engineering theory here.

If it works, it works, right? I just wouldn't think that you can change the coil parameters very much without running into the issues I mentioned above.
 
I'm in a similar situation with my converted neogeo.. hoping to find one with a 25 or 26" crt to swap over lol until that point, I'm usung a lcd temporary

Good ol Neo-Geo.

"Just put a new monitor in it man! Hell, I have a couple of 19 inch ones ready to.."
"..I need a 25 inch."
"Oh."
 
Can we haggle on a price for one?

(couldn't resist :D )

I'll happily haggle with anyone...but when the lying/cheating starts...different ballgame.

Others just have more tolerance for that than I do.

I may be getting old and crotchety.

Get off my lawn!
 
I'll happily haggle with anyone...but when the lying/cheating starts...different ballgame.

Others just have more tolerance for that than I do.

I may be getting old and crotchety.

Get off my lawn!

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The difference in collecting, with regards to monitors

20 yrs ago - If you need another monitor, get one with less screen burn from another game, or even pay $200/shipped for a brand new one from Arcadeshop, etc. I never bought a new one, that seemed like way too much $.

Now - Either a) Learn to swap yokes and converge, using a thrift store TV tube; b) Find a direct swap TV tube for a k7000 or something; c) Use an old frame, a TV tube, and a universal chassis
Or buy a junk game on CL.
 
Whoops, yes I meant "series" not "serial".

Just picked up a chassis+yoke on eBay so if I can't get the existing yoke to work, I'll swap to the G07 yoke.

I prefer to do things the hard way though, so I'll be snipping wires, changing inductor/cap values, etc, to get the thing working with the current TV yoke first.

Pat
 
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