Arcadeworthy Rescues - Tail Gunner 2

[ArcadeTechGW]

Lost yesterday to a long doctor's appointment, then lunch, then driving 1.5 hours back, then catching up on work until way late.

The soccer game got cancelled due to rain. The field at the local school floods out pretty badly.

I should have some time tonight - the weekend is shot already with soccer fitness tests, reffing, mentoring and more reffing.

I did go to another Ace Hardware on my way home, and got the fasteners to:
1. Replace the speaker mount with cap screws.
2. Extra screws to replace the SHIELD screws (again) due to having to drill some out.
3. Extra extra screws just so I don't run out again.

My plan tonight:
Remove the left Shield button, de-solder both, and start stripping the CPOs.
Clean the Joystick CPO with a solvent to remove all lipids, and then apply the new CPO
Weigh the game.
Stand the game on end, and pull the wheels, clean up the bottom.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Both shield buttons are off, and their overlays are stripped.

I was hoping on the right shield button to be able to peen the material to close the hole up. I don't know what happened here, but the hole is at least 1/8" if not 3/16" too large. I'm not sure I'll be able to close it, so I'll look for an auto shop or metal shop who can weld in something, grind it flat, and drill a new hole.

Whatever was used, it was not the right tool. Their is a ridge on the inside - it was almost like they were moving metal rather than cutting it.
Before:

After:


The battle to remove the adhesive begins next.

 

[bman7418]

by accident i found that evaporust does a great job turning adhesive into a jelly that is easy to remove, let the sit in a bucket for an hour.

 

[cwilkson]

Whatever was used, it was not the right tool. Their is a ridge on the inside - it was almost like they were moving metal rather than cutting it.

A dull drill bit will do that. It melts the metal instead of cutting it.

Also, using a drill bit "sideways" to hog out a hole larger than the bit diameter.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Some good news. I contacted a local firm, and they can weld-repair the hole. I'll bring both panels over tomorrow morning so they know how big the hole is.

I started asking them if they could bend the plate and make a new panel, but they can't bend 0.09" steel.

Which means I need to get them squeaky clean and adhesive free tonight. Damn. Oh well.

Maybe I'll try my propane torch to burn off the adhesive? It's 0.09" thick steel. It may work.

As to how wallowed out the hole was in the left Shield CPO:
Right shield button hole: 0.46"
Left shield button hole: 0.61"

That's 0.15" oversized. I can't imagine what they were doing - you unscrew the panel - you don't drill out the button.
(Edited 3/20/23 to correct CP thickness from 0.9 to 0.09" thick. Yoikes!)

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Working tonight, I got some stuff done.
Since I'm taking the shield panels in, I tried to get the booger sticky adhesive off. I tried to saturate a paper towel with two solvents (one per shield panel).

The oversize hole version got paint thinner.
The regular hole version got the Industrial Solvent

I think the paint thinner worked a bit better.

Then I decided to rivet the speaker into the speaker grille and cardboard. I gathered my rivets and backing rings, and went to work.

Here are the results (not too fancy, but it's as I found it)



That should work quite nicely. I also removed the clamps from the back marque, made sure it was staying stuck, and brought the completed speaker and back marque down to the basement.

A little late work came up, but after that, it may be "weigh day" for the game and associated parts.

We'll see when my energy taps out.

 

[Brick Top]

Some good news. I contacted a local firm, and they can weld-repair the hole. I'll bring both panels over tomorrow morning so they know how big the hole is.

I started asking them if they could bend the plate and make a new panel, but they can't bend 0.9" steel.

Hell no they can't, but maybe try asking them about 0.09" steel and you might get a better answer.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Hell no they can't, but maybe try asking them about 0.09" steel and you might get a better answer.

Lol. Yep, it was 0.09 inches. Maybe he'll see it differently tomorrow.

Still, this is a lot thicker than I could bend on my brake press in high school. And my puny vice (perfect for most things) had neither the throat depth or jaw width to bend this stuff. It's not sheet metal like my Asteroids panel. It's between 1/8 and 3/16 thick.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Had some time and energy (after cleaning out the slow-running bathroom sink drain, which was full of stinky soap film and gunk, with 2 plugged overflow ports), and gave some love to Tail Gunner 2.

First, I worked to get more adhesive off the shield CPOs, and put them in the car for their trip to the shop early tomorrow morning.

I looked at the repair to the gaping switch hole a previous owner had put in, and the Liquid Nails had shrunk back a bit. So I pulled out the wood filler I had used to fill the screw holes on the back left side (facing the rear marque) and re-touched those to make them more level as well as filling in around the edge of the glued joint to get it nice and level. I then used a wet paper towel to remove any wood filler from the vinyl for a smoother surface. I also filled the previous switch screw holes with wood filler.

If this stays fairly level, I'll get out the matched paint and a small brush and start to fill in to blend the repairs.

I also figured out how to pick up the CRT / CPU sled safely. There is a handle carved into the left side (facing the CRT) and you can use that (use leather gloves, it's not a smooth hole) to pick it up and carry it (also use the CPU backboard cable pass through hole again with gloves).

I'll transport it to the basement in the near future with my wife walking in front and opening doors as we go.

When I picked up the CRT/CPU Sled, I happened to look underneath, and there is an "I" structure built from spare cabinet parts. This is to allow the sled to stay stable and not rock in transit. This "I" structure included some of the same material from the sides and back complete with vinyl, so if I don't like this repair, I can take a piece off, screw in a replacement, and have the right thickness MDF and vinyl to fill the hole.

This is provided for posterity, in case someone finds a similar issue. I'm not likely to pursue this, now that I have a nice piece of wood just about ready for paint.

More as time permits.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

The good and the wallowed out shield CPOs are with the local vendor. He said he could make new ones - for $100. I went with the $50 repair and ground flush, which means a groove weld.

If I can get the volume up, the price will drop. He has a complete machine shop. I'll ask if he does plating next.....

For now, if I get this back in a few days for $50 and can strip the rest of the goo off it and put the overlay on, I'll declare victory.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Welding of the drilled out panel and fab of 2 new shield CPs for another KLOV member who needs them is in progress.

I looked at how the wood filler set up, and it looks pretty good. Time to get the brush out and do touch-ups.

Photos when I get home. Getting some fun tests done right now.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Photos of the newly fabricated shield CPOs are in my New Products thread. Look for them there.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

I got some time tonight (after attending a Keaney's Farm Distillery Roaring 20's Speakeasy party tonight) to apply the first coat of paint to the areas which needed a touchup.

Here is a photo of the repairs to the screw holes on the left side of the cabinet (facing the back marque) post-touch up.


Okay, not exactly perfect, but unless you are looking, they are invisible.

How about the BIG GAPING HOLE in the far end of the cabinet (where someone put in a light switch?)



I'll need to match the decal curve and mask that off, but color wise, that's a pretty darn good match. Certainly good enough for Roadworthy Rescues, and thus, my attempt to match them, Arcadeworthy Rescues.

My next goal: Disassemble the control yoke, and reproduce:
1. The entire yoke for the member who sold me this game
2. The curved section for another member who needs it.
3. The gimbal parts for myself (one is worn, but not broken) and another member (whose is repaired with solder, and we know how long that will last.

Also, I have another KLOV member who is going for a chrome job, so after I measure the control stick, I'll be sending that off for a chrome plating job with his lot.

I have asked the local shop if they can reproduce that from stainless steel tubing. They say they might be able to. The thickness (to fit the Midway button for the Fire circuit) will be the key. If they can match the thickness, they can turn out Stainless Steel knurled shafts pretty easy. If they can't make the thickness, it could get dicey.

My plan:
Disassemble the control stick one piece at a time, measuring everything.
Create a master parts list.
Get estimates from the local machine shop.
See if people want to pay that much for unobtainum parts.
Order the parts people want, and support the Tail Gunner 2 owners of the world.

Also, I ordered 2 more overlay kits today to support those who need them, at my cost plus shipping - no upcharge.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

My Grasshopper was supposed to make fairly quick work of the heart attack snow yesterday, but it wouldn't crank so I had to fire up my old Toro 421 instead. Then troubleshoot the interlocks and what not in the Grasshopper. It turned out to be corroded fuse blades - too much voltage drop, so the interlocks thought the tractor was unoccupied and wouldn't allow a start.

After I finished that up, I decided since I was already sweaty "Let's tackle the bottom skids!" Why not? I was dancing in the frying pan - let's jump in the fire.

I pulled all my tools out of the game, put down a moving blanket, and rotated the game on it's "back" so the marque was up.

I unscrewed the casters, and confirmed someone used what I think is a track saw to separate the entire cabinet into 2 pieces. I also figured out how to use my furniture dolly to bring the game into the basement - sideways. I'll put a 2 x 4 on the other side, and run the dolly strap through that. Have my wife hold it in the right place so it bears on the seat and the reinforced section, and tighten up the strap. Then down the stairs it goes.

Once I got the casters off, I used a chisel to remove remnants of the original skids, and got out the hardwood I bought. I measured twice and then cut my hardwood to size on my radial arm saw (best $25 I ever spent, done in around 15 seconds with 10 minutes of cleanup) and then got out the rasps and started forming the bull nose on each end, and rounding the sharp edges of the bottom.

I then sanded with 80 grit to knock down any rasp marks, then followed that with 220 grit. I think I'll go over it with 350 grit next.

I plan to drill 8 countersunk holes in each rail, using wood screws to secure them to the bottom of the game in their original positions. That should handle any shear load nicely, while reinforcing the structure of the bottom of the game as it was originally designed. The person who cut the game put in steel stitch plates - one on each side of the CRT and one on each side of the bottom, and that's it. And didn't paint them, so they stick out like a sore thumb. I'm thinking about moving the bottom stitch plates to the inside edge before I put the rails on, then filling and painting the holes.

My plans to disassemble the yoke got lost to this. I want to get this into my arcade and out of the heated garage soon.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

I lugged the CRT and game board assembly carefully into my storage area inside the house.

Then I chiseled out what I think was gum in one spot, and plaster in another.

I vacuumed out the entire game, and plan to get in their with my black paint tonight and touch up anything that isn't black that is supposed to be.

I also pulled a screw out, and noticed the bottom moving with it - the screw was bent. I replaced it with a straight screw (no more movement of the bottom.)

Once I get the skids installed, I'll remove the existing stitch plates on the side, plug and paint those holes. A 1/2 x 2" piece of hardwood the length of the bottom beats a 1/2" x 3" steel stitch plate.

Some of the plastic is busted off the back. I was going going to paint that black, but there were some deep gouges, so I got out my remixed wood filler, and filled in the gouges. Then thought "Why not fill in the gaps to level?" so I did that. It will need some sanding and another coat or three, but should hide well under the black touch up paint I'll be using. It's the same quart I used for the Asteroids back door, and the touch ups on the Robotron front and back doors, and the touch-ups around the t-molding on Asteroids where it was a little moisture fuzzed. It covers well, is thick, and lays on nice and flat.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

I put the finished rails on today.



You can also see my repairs to the back side, which should hide nicely....or not.

The rails were hardwood. I have enough weight out of the cockpit to safely get it down the stairs. That's the next hurdle, after the paint fully dries.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

As long as I had the black paint out, I decided to touch up the inside. Some of the black had faded, and some was damaged by feet.

I repainted all around the bezel around the monitor.



Then I painted the sides and footwells. While I was there, I touched up the inside of the cockpit and the shield and joystick / start button stations, covering the white which had been scraped to.



I had plenty of paint, so I refreshed the underside of the bezel as well. I destroyed one foam paintbrush using this Rust-o-leum but it should last forever.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

I hooked up the dolly, and can leverage the game to get it to the pit stairs. Then it gets a little tricky. I disconnect from the dolly at the bottom, and rotate it on to a furniture 4 wheel dolly, to move it into the arcade.

The wife will help me get it down the stairs, one at a time, using the stair dolly slide belts. That will be the next reasonable weather day we get.

After that, things will slow down until I disassemble and get parts made for the control stick. This includes:
1. Possible new SS stick.
2. Several sets of the "gimbal" parts (one for me, one for another member, one spare, one for another member who needs the entire yoke, more if someone wants them)
3. At least 2 full "curved" sections which support the joystick for 2 members.
4. An entire mechanical part of the joystick for a member who has the game but is missing the entire joystick.

If anyone needs some of these parts, please let me know ASAP. DM me. I'll add you to the list, and get them fabbed.

 

[Totally80sMan]

The paint match, super close, nice job. Hole looks 10x better. If we didn't see it before, it just looks like the outline of screw holes on the other side which is very natural.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

I had another KLOV member setting up to chrome parts, and he offered me a chance to get my joystick in the batch.

That moved stripping the joystick to the top of the work list.

The two set screws came out with a 1/64th Allen wrench. The one pin that was flush came right out. The other took an hour of effort and prying. It will have to be cleaned up.

I noted the gimbal ears (which the yoke rotates on) were not square. I was able to adjust them in my vice with a little pressure.

Now that the parts are apart, I can get them to the local machining firm, and start making parts for others. Plus my gimbal connections are worn, so I'll get replacements for those.

While I was out there, I cleaned up the stitch plate spots, filled the holes with wood putty, and cleaned things up. Tomorrow when I get time, I'll paint them.

Moving slowly along. I'll move the game to the arcade tomorrow.