Arcadeworthy Rescues - Tail Gunner 2

[ArcadeTechGW]

Need pictures of the unassembled parts pile!

LOL. They are boxed up for shipment. I'm unboxing them tonight to do the overlay work.

Prep, Prep, Prep and THEN apply the overlay. It's the only way to make sure they stick.

 

[bonehead]

Excited !!!

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

The joystick (mine) is back together.

I made one mistake. I forgot to install the gimbal arms before I routed the wires to the fire button. I clipped the wires at the harness and will butt splice them tomorrow.

Pictures tomorrow. Product reviews got in my way today. All sorts of fun with the job.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Here are the promised pictures. I haven't butt spliced the fire button wires yet.

Underside - the new gimbals look perfect. I did have to use a small rat tail file on the taller one to the left - it wouldn't fit over the pot shaft. I'll run the file through the rest of them that haven't shipped yet.


Top side:



As soon as I get done with work, I'll wrap this up. The black stove bolts came from Ace Hardware with black nuts that I pitched. I used KEP nuts (plastic insert nuts) to keep them from coming loose during the aggressive play.

With the new gimbals, cleaned up nylon washers, and Teflon (tm) tape, the stick makes no noise at all. Before, it kind of had a whine in some directions - now it's gone. I did polish the gimbal pin (what the wires go through) so that may have helped. I thought it was copper - nope, just really dirty steel or stainless.

You can see my AMP Pin Remover (Thanks @security0001 for having that in stock!) I went with all new wires (again thanks to @security0001 for having THOSE in stock for a very reasonable price.)

I burned through a bunch of AMP crimps (Thanks @security0001 again) and after I put the butt splices in, it will be ready to go back into the game - or more likely, to act as a model for @pashdown 's stick. I'll be cleaning his new control panels and installing the overlays and buttons tonight so I can ship them out to him plug and play after I get them wired up and connected up.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

One comment: I was looking at the old fire button, and the wires were twisted together. I thought "Not a bad idea, I can do a pull by on the gimbal pin going through the stick."

Nope, it wouldn't go past twisted. I think the previous person who had the game (the as found fire button was red, while the factory button was black so it had to have been replaced) did that to hold the button in (no set screw (was stripped), electrical tape around the button) since he couldn't get it to sit down otherwise. Now it has a set screw and I pulled it down nicely. I'll do the same with the one I'm doing for @pashdown and he should be good for years.

This is a lot of fun working through the issues and challenges and putting this back together.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

It's Deja vu all over again. I asked @pashdown if he wanted me to put on the CPOs and get everything wired so the shield and joystick control panels would be plug and hopefully, play. He said yes.

So I worked up the shield panels, and got the wires installed.



I already had the harness built for the joystick panel. I ran out of gas but got this far in the assembly:




All I have left to do is solder the start button and fire button, and it's ready to pack in a box with lots of bubble wrap / foam to make sure it arrives safe, and it's on it's way. 4 more black and shiny stove bolts from Ace Hardware complete the look.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Fire Button is done! Soldered in and mounted. I may have to grind down the set screws from the bottom - they are a bit long.

Moving on to the Start Button later. Almost done!

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Lunch was good. The Start Button is done.

All I need are the connectors for the Shield panels, and off they go.

It's finally time to plug in and install my joystick and calibrate it.

Pictures when it's done. Hopefully, removing the CRT sled and disconnecting / reconnecting things didn't break anything. We'll find out.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

I noticed a few things.

I went with a black start button, but I think the original was red. I think the black looks better.

I did fire up the game, and the screen came right up - no problem. I did see some vector glitches on some of the ships, mostly because I had the gimbal potentiometers set mid-span when I installed the gimbal arms. My gunsight was stuck in the upper left corner of the screen where the ships weren't, so I didn't last long. I did verify all the buttons work.

I'm going through the manual, trying to find setup or calibration information. I seem to recall a calibration procedure by entering setup mode.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

No calibration settings in the manual, so I went to my ground game.

I flipped the joystick, disconnected the gimbal arms, and centered the cursor on the screen with a game started. Held the joystick centered, installed the gimbal arms, and left right is backwards.

If I pull up, the gunsight goes up, push down, it goes down. All good.

Left is right and right is left, so I must have flipped two wires. It's out of the game, and that's my next task, and then since I did @pashdown 's the same way, the same correction there.

Plus now I know how to set up the second joystick. Ta da!

Here is the Tail Gunner 2 (and probably 1) Joystick "calibration" procedure when installing new pots:

1. Install the new pots. Do not install the gimbal arms.
2. Connect the joystick.
3. Start a game.
4. Use the pots to center the gunsight in the middle of the screen.
5. Center the stick.
6. Install the lower gimbal on the pot shaft, tighten down allen screw.
7. Install the upper gimbal on the pot shaft, tighten down allen screw.
8. Play a game and verify proper operation.
9. If the game works properly (can reach each corner of the screen with the gunsight), re-install joystick in pedestal.

 

[ArcadeDanger]

Just read through this saga of a restore thread, just wanted to say wonderful work, it honestly looks great. I've played a Tail Gunner at CAX some years ago and the cockpit setup is ideal for it, was surprised about the joystick just being gimbaled with no automatic return to center.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Just read through this saga of a restore thread, just wanted to say wonderful work, it honestly looks great. I've played a Tail Gunner at CAX some years ago and the cockpit setup is ideal for it, was surprised about the joystick just being gimbaled with no automatic return to center.

Thanks. It's been a labor of love, that's for sure.

Yes, it is simply gimbaled. And now it works and doesn't jump all over the place.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

And the Tail Gunner 2 Exidy manual for wiring the joystick is (wait for it) WRONG.

Two wires are transposed. I had to flip the two wires on one of the pots to get the left right motion corrected, and then "re-time" the Pot on the gimbal arm to center it.

Now all is well.

I had my old pots, but decided to follow the wiring diagram instead. DUH!

Now to change @pashdown 's stick to match mine, and we'll be good to go.

I do see some vector glitches.

Pics or it didn't happen. (Corrected drawing later)

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

I love it when a plan falls apart.

I tested out @pashdown 's joystick after I changed the black start button for red, and corrected the X-axis wiring by swapping the two wires on the pots.

Then I played 10 games of Tail Gunner 2 to test out the yoke and connections. It worked great.

That was the final obstacle to installing my joystick panel in my game. Or so I thought.

I installed the joystick panel, and played several games to make sure the alignment was good. It was.

I then grabbed my 4 new black button head cap screws, and went to install them. I started with the right rear connection.

And heard the nutsert fall into the game. *#&^$#(*&$^

I pulled off the panel, and I found that hole was gone - it was basically the nutsert sitting in the hole.

I had a Plan B worked up, so I went to the garage, got out my entirely too long piece of 3/4" diameter wood dowel, cut off a 3/8" long slice of it, put that in the vise, drilled a hole for the nutsert, and then crushed the nutsert into the 3/4" wood dowel in the vise.

Turn the assembly sideways, and get the rasp out. I started working the sides to create a taper away from the nutsert. I worked it around in the vise, and then removed it and took off any high spots with the rasp around the radius of the non-nutsert end.

Go to the parts bin, and grab a nice, big fender washer, and bring it, the nutsert tapered wood combo, and the wood glue to the game.

I coated the edge of the taper of the nutsert with wood with wood glue, and placed it into the hole.


Then I added the washer and the button head cap screw, and drew the nutsert / wood combo into the remaining plywood. It's like pulling a cork into place.


Once done, I removed the washer and button head cap screw, then put the button head cap screw back in to make sure it was straight. It was.

I removed the button head cap screw, checked the other nutserts (had to do the same thing minus the wood plug with one other) and then installed the joystick panel.



And the game is ALMOST DONE.



The volume is too loud and not adjustable, so I'll be checking that with the service bulletin and making a fix.

I also have some shifted graphics in the display. The more I play it, the better it gets, but I'm suspecting a stuck gate or a wonky socket or wonky DAC module. Basically, the score has some text issues, and one of the three ships in each group has vectors that aren't completely connected.

So on to the next bit of fun, but for now, the game is playable. If not a little loud.

I did get a photo of the resistors in the high volume service bulletin, so that will be the next project.

For now, GAME ON! I've managed to score 2150 as my high score for now. I did better with @pashdown 's joystick, which is a bit tighter than mine is probably due to the reverse engineered gimbal parts and tolerances. It's fully playable, I just have to get down to it and shoot down some enemy ships!

Boo yah!

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Some thanks are in order at this point.

First, thanks to @CaptainHendry for providing the artwork for the shield and joystick panels. Actually, a lot of us (I think I have sold 8 sets at this point) should be thanking him.

Second, thanks to @CaptainHendry and @ArcadeJason for various Tech Support responses. Also @Arcadium for getting a picture of the CRT mini-board connection so I could install it right the first time.

Third, thanks to Game On Grafix for taking on the job to print the overlays, and the multiple times I had to file orders for MORE.

Fourth, thanks to John's Jukes for having the right potentiometers in stock.

Fifth, thanks to @security0001 for having all the wire, Molex parts, and everything else.

Sixth, thanks to a member who wishes to remain anonymous who was going for a big chrome job and managed to get my project included.

Finally, thanks to Gardner Products of Rochelle, who provided a reverse engineered joystick and shield panels, and all the parts to make a new joystick, including new stainless steel joysticks for several members. I did provide him with pictures of the finished joystick assembly so he could see what the various parts his company made are being used for.

And thank you to everyone who has been following this thread and providing words of encouragement. You rock!

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

On to the audio.

That looks like R74 is already a 22K resistor - red red orange.

The plot thickens.

 

[McHale]

It's Deja vu all over again. I asked @pashdown if he wanted me to put on the CPOs and get everything wired so the shield and joystick control panels would be plug and hopefully, play. He said yes.

So I worked up the shield panels, and got the wires installed.

View attachment 676141

I already had the harness built for the joystick panel. I ran out of gas but got this far in the assembly:


View attachment 676142

All I have left to do is solder the start button and fire button, and it's ready to pack in a box with lots of bubble wrap / foam to make sure it arrives safe, and it's on it's way. 4 more black and shiny stove bolts from Ace Hardware complete the look.

That shit's beautiful mang. I'm kinda jealous that I don't have a cabinet to use these on. Nice work!

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

That shit's beautiful mang. I'm kinda jealous that I don't have a cabinet to use these on. Nice work!

Thanks! You are local, so if you are inclined, you can stop out and take measurements and make your own Tail Gunner 2 Cockpit.

I'd suggest making it just a bit longer for more space getting in and out.

 

[CaptainHendry]

On to the audio.

That looks like R74 is already a 22K resistor - red red orange.

The plot thickens.

View attachment 676678

I know you've looked at my restore thread but Bill Boucher tried several options for R74 to get a decent controllable volume and wound up going with 2.2K ohms. That can still get pretty loud but you can control it and bring it down.

One of the reasons I remember playing this game back in 1980 is that I remember being blasted by the sound. The stock sound level was just nuts. It was the loudest game in the whole arcade.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

I know you've looked at my restore thread but Bill Boucher tried several options for R74 to get a decent controllable volume and wound up going with 2.2K ohms. That can still get pretty loud but you can control it and bring it down.

One of the reasons I remember playing this game back in 1980 is that I remember being blasted by the sound. The stock sound level was just nuts. It was the loudest game in the whole arcade.

And it's the loudest one in my arcade. As small as it is.

I put it on a power strip. You flip that switch, and the explosion sound is remarkable.