Arcadeshop MCR switching adapter

I agree, these work fine. You may need to install the recommended cap between the 12V and ground on the switcher p/s for your Spy Hunter, or you will probably have a noticable hum when you power it on. I recently installed one in my Spy Hunter, after I installed the cap, the hum was cut out. I got the switcher p/s from them with the adapter at the same time.
 
To avoid sound issues get the heavy duty PS...

+1.

I had one in my Tapper and it hummed like mad. I took it out. I later used the same adapter in my DoT with the heavy duty switcher and it works perfect. I do get occasional lock-ups on DoT in attract that I think is voltage related, though.

Other than that, I would recommend!
 
I used this adapter with the 4 amp switcher P/S in both of my Spy Hunters and my UDOT. Only the Spy Hunters hummed even with the 4 amp P/S. Had to install the 4700uf 25VDC capacitor between the switcher's 12V and its ground. You may want to grab one of those caps while you wait for it to arrive. The humming was pretty bad.
 
I used this adapter with the 4 amp switcher P/S in both of my Spy Hunters and my UDOT. Only the Spy Hunters hummed even with the 4 amp P/S. Had to install the 4700uf 25VDC capacitor between the switcher's 12V and its ground. You may want to grab one of those caps while you wait for it to arrive. The humming was pretty bad.

Same problem here. Tried it in all 4 Spy Hunters I had and all hummed really loud! I wish I would have know about replacing that cap:(
 
Well, starting to troubleshoot. The MCR Led power light is on but not the switcher. The switcher led flickers when it's turned on and off.
 
My MCR works great. No hum at all now. I had a short in my control panel wiring and it caused the switcher to fail. All is good now. Enjoy.
 
Anybody have pics of it installed in a spy hunter? Do I need the original chassis installed as well to feed power to the lights and monitor? I thought this bypassed both the mcr and the chassis but the connections don't work out if I do. I haven't applied power yet but the way I have it hooked up is the power cord from wall goes direct in switching ps . The switching ps is then connected to all the correct +5 etc.

Any help would appreciated before I plug this thing in
 
The MCR switcher adapter/switcher is built to take the place of the MCR power pcb.. The transformer assembly (suitcase to some) at the base of your game remains. Also, wire your switching power supply into a fused 120v line, not into the transformer and not into the wall. There are a few places to tap into the 120v. I've used one of the connectors on the transformer for a clean look. Arcadeshop says to tap into your monitor's 120v line, which works but its also behind the iso.. Which some people say isn't optimal.


Anybody have pics of it installed in a spy hunter? Do I need the original chassis installed as well to feed power to the lights and monitor? I thought this bypassed both the mcr and the chassis but the connections don't work out if I do. I haven't applied power yet but the way I have it hooked up is the power cord from wall goes direct in switching ps . The switching ps is then connected to all the correct +5 etc.

Any help would appreciated before I plug this thing in
 
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