ArcadeShop board not true JAMMA?

Is there a reason AS' board is $379 while all the others are about $75? Correct sounds? HS Save w/ initials? Just better?

The reason is because the manufacturer and/or distributor are dooshnozzles...

But that is just one mans opinion.
 
Maybe his Jamma harness is wired wrong. It may work on some games but not others. Not all Jamma boards use all the connections and someone could have got one wrong.:eek:

It's a Bob Roberts JAMMA harness, and it tests good on 48 and 60-in-1 boards. Power supply is also a Bob Roberts tested Happ PS. I have built over 100 JAMMA cabs in the past few years, so I think I can say with confidence, the problem is not with the harness or the wiring.
 
It's a Bob Roberts JAMMA harness, and it tests good on 48 and 60-in-1 boards. Power supply is also a Bob Roberts tested Happ PS. I have built over 100 JAMMA cabs in the past few years, so I think I can say with confidence, the problem is not with the harness or the wiring.

Take a photo of the edge connector... both sides... from the board you fried.
 
Is there a reason AS' board is $379 while all the others are about $75? Correct sounds? HS Save w/ initials? Just better?
I agree they're pretty pricey compared to the XX-in-1 boards, but the working high score saves and additional trackball games were enough to get me to switch. Also, the "feel" on certain games seems better on the AS board. My wife always complained that the joystick input on Ms Pacman "felt wrong" on the 60-in-1. No complaints with the AS board.
 
It's a Bob Roberts JAMMA harness, and it tests good on 48 and 60-in-1 boards. Power supply is also a Bob Roberts tested Happ PS. I have built over 100 JAMMA cabs in the past few years, so I think I can say with confidence, the problem is not with the harness or the wiring.

I don't think it matters how many you have built. You should go through and verify there are no shorts or other issues with the harness and power supply in this cabinet. The knockoff boards are supposed to be coming out of the same factory and I wouldn't expect those to be any different. As the others have been suggesting though, even that should be verified with high-res pictures of both sides of the connector. Something is frying the boards, and it is probably not the boards themselves since you fried two.
 
Well all other JAMMA boards I plug in work just fine. Attached are pictures...
 

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Well all other JAMMA boards I plug in work just fine. Attached are pictures...

If I'm looking at the pinout right, that board has stuff on the +12V pin. You can see if hit that via and the via looks like it comes out in the middle of a trace on the other side. The picture isn't quite high-res enough to tell for sure, but there is certainly no point in have a via if it goes to nothing.

The -5 is clearly a dead end.
 
If I'm looking at the pinout right, that board has stuff on the +12V pin. You can see if hit that via and the via looks like it comes out in the middle of a trace on the other side. The picture isn't quite high-res enough to tell for sure, but there is certainly no point in have a via if it goes to nothing.

The -5 is clearly a dead end.

It looks like the AS board uses +12 and -5 when used in Horizontal mode according to the AS pinout info. They mark them as not used on Vertical mode.

http://www.arcadeshop.com/multi-pcb/multi-pcb.htm
 
Right from the arcadeshop website linked above...




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Yeah, saw that and then they went and conflicted that in the Horizontal section as I mentioned... ;)

Vertical section has what you quoted and this...

-5V (not used) E 5 -5V (not used)
+12V (not used) F 6 +12V (not used)

Horizontal section has this...

-5V E 5 -5V
+12V F 6 +12V

Obviously they could have forgot to flag -5 and +12 as "(note used)".... Of course his board has components on the +12V line and the -5V now that I can see the component side better. The arcadeshop board also appears to have components connected on those traces. Not sure why they would put traces and components on pins that they don't use the power from.
 
Well,

I just checked one of my AS PCB's and the traces go to the same components as what shows in his pics above. Not sure what that's all about... but I do know the board runs in vertical mode on +5 only. I've not tried it in horizontal mode.

What I can say though is that this situation now points to either (A) a bad harness or (B) bad wiring of the harness. I can't imagine two boards frying the exact same way.

Pull your harness and meter the +5 pins, the -5 pins and the +12 pins to make sure.

ASBOARD.jpg
 
Well,

I just checked one of my AS PCB's and the traces go to the same components as what shows in his pics above. Not sure what that's all about... but I do know the board runs in vertical mode on +5 only. I've not tried it in horizontal mode.

What I can say though is that this situation now points to either (A) a bad harness or (B) bad wiring of the harness. I can't imagine two boards frying the exact same way.

Pull your harness and meter the +5 pins, the -5 pins and the +12 pins to make sure.

ASBOARD.jpg

Ok, your picture is clearer... R6 is not populated so unless there is something on the backside (shouldn't be) then that line isn't hooked up. Someone with a board will have to follow those traces through the vias to see if those do dead end with no components. His photo was blurry and what was a component-less R6 looked like it had a surface mount component in that spot. Maybe the original design required the extra voltages and was later modified to not populate those components or need the voltages.

Edit: Of course there is clearly a component at D2 which is on the +12V line... Anyway... It is possible that it doesn't need -5 or +12, but that it can generate what it needs when they are absent. That is what those 10" LCD screens that were being sold on here did. Just a thought...
 
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I'm running the AS board in Horizontal mode and I have the +12v populated on the harness. Not sure if the board uses it, but I am feeding it into the harness and the board runs fine.
 
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