ArcadeShop board not true JAMMA?

pacray

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I was told that to get the ArcadeShop multigame board to work, you have to disconnect the +12V and the -5V from the power supply. Can anyone verify this? Because it seems that if this is the case, it wouldn't be a true JAMMA board.
 
I am about 95% sure you don't have to disconnect those lines... they just go nowhere on the board (dead-end trace). Now, I am not 100% sure because I wired my cabs specifically for the AS boards, so I simply didn't wire up the -5 and +12.
 
I don't see how it can be called JAMMA if it can't be put in a harness that has all the JAMMA voltages wired. I will check with Steve at AS.
 
I don't see how it can be called JAMMA if it can't be put in a harness that has all the JAMMA voltages wired. I will check with Steve at AS.

I have an AS board plugged into a cab with +12 and -5 connected. Works just fine. I checked it with a multimeter before plugging it in, and those pins don't appear to go to anything on the board.
 
I don't see how it can be called JAMMA if it can't be put in a harness that has all the JAMMA voltages wired. I will check with Steve at AS.


Again... the +12 and -5 dead end.. they do nothing.. I am "almost" 100% sure of that... you can plug it in to a standard JAMMA harness without issue.

After reading the above response it appears I am 100% sure now... I mean it's advertised as JAMMA and if there was a problem with plugging it in to a fully populated JAMMA harness, we'd have heard about it by now.
 
Yup, just confirmed with Steve at ArcadeShop, and he said it is not a problem to have all voltages connected with his board.

The problem I ran into is that I bought one of the less expensive versions of this board, and apparently if you put it into a harness with the +12 and -5, it fries the board. I have now fried 2 of them. :-/
 
Yup, just confirmed with Steve at ArcadeShop, and he said it is not a problem to have all voltages connected with his board.

The problem I ran into is that I bought one of the less expensive versions of this board, and apparently if you put it into a harness with the +12 and -5, it fries the board. I have now fried 2 of them. :-/

Are you talking about the bootlegs that were floating around recently (Nixs was peddling them)?
 
Yup, just confirmed with Steve at ArcadeShop, and he said it is not a problem to have all voltages connected with his board.

The problem I ran into is that I bought one of the less expensive versions of this board, and apparently if you put it into a harness with the +12 and -5, it fries the board. I have now fried 2 of them. :-/


Really? That is screwed...

So much for them being "identical to Arcade Shops version" as claimed by some...
 
Are you talking about the bootlegs that were floating around recently (Nixs was peddling them)?

Yes, although I have to say NIXS has been great about getting me a replacement board when I toasted the first one, and is even willing to take back the second.
 
That's really odd. My board came from NIXS and I've got +12 and -5 plugged in without issue. I know for sure they're plugged in because I'm using the +12 to power LED bulbs for my coin door. Maybe he's getting boards from a couple different manufacturers? Or maybe there was a change in the board design recently?
 
Pacray, can you post a pic of the edge connector on your board (front and back)? The 12V and -5V pads should be NC. I seriously doubt the bootleggers would have made any unnecessary layout changes....
 
Maybe his Jamma harness is wired wrong. It may work on some games but not others. Not all Jamma boards use all the connections and someone could have got one wrong.:eek:
 
Is there a reason AS' board is $379 while all the others are about $75? Correct sounds? HS Save w/ initials? Just better?
 
Maybe his Jamma harness is wired wrong. It may work on some games but not others. Not all Jamma boards use all the connections and someone could have got one wrong.:eek:

That's my vote! Sounds more like his harness isn't Jamma. ;)
 
I guess its just retail pricing?

The arcadeshop clones are almost $300 too. Volume has something to do with it for sure. I don't get it either, but I won't buy one so it doesn't matter... I have my $75 board. ;)
 
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