Arachnid Super Six Dart Board Repair Help

[cadillacman]

yeah me too...


those were made in my city(rockford/loves park/machesney park) so theres alot of them in local bars.. ive played the hell out of them myself too.

 

[blkdog7]

yeah me too...


those were made in my city(rockford/loves park/machesney park) so theres alot of them in local bars.. ive played the hell out of them myself too.

Cad, I am from Chicago. So, yeah... I played a shit ton of these darts. Especially at Durty Nellies in Palatine (the old Durty Nellies. My band used to play there too.)

 

[Zud]

Cad, I am from Chicago. So, yeah... I played a shit ton of these darts. Especially at Durty Nellies in Palatine (the old Durty Nellies. My band used to play there too.)

Wow, been a long time since I was at Durty Nellies. Good Times.

 

[blkdog7]

Got it working tonight. Woot!!

Best $12.50 I ever spent:

 

[cadillacman]

u-suk lol

 

[blkdog7]

I am not out of the woods yet.

It's locking up on me.

Any ideas what I should check?

Thanks!!!!

 

[KenLayton]

First thing to check is the power supply +5 volts.

Second thing to check is all in the target head:
Broken tips, cracked segments (usually the pie wedge ones), or a dirty rubber damper holding a switch closed inside the switch matrix. When the game locks up again, does it lock up in the game over (attract) mode or while playing, or both?

If it locks up again during game over (attract mode), unplug the target interface board from the gameboard. Now wait a couple of minutes to see if the game over attract mode resumes. If it does then the problem is in the target head. If it does not, the the problem is either the +5 volts from the power supply is too high or too low, or else the gameboard itself has problems.

If the gameboard is suspected, the problems I used to see on it were either the cold solder joints on the connector header pins (usually on the power input connector) or the video ram chips and/or the video graphics processor chip have gone bad.

 

[blkdog7]

First thing to check is the power supply +5 volts.

Second thing to check is all in the target head:
Broken tips, cracked segments (usually the pie wedge ones), or a dirty rubber damper holding a switch closed inside the switch matrix. When the game locks up again, does it lock up in the game over (attract) mode or while playing, or both?

If it locks up again during game over (attract mode), unplug the target interface board from the gameboard. Now wait a couple of minutes to see if the game over attract mode resumes. If it does then the problem is in the target head. If it does not, the the problem is either the +5 volts from the power supply is too high or too low, or else the gameboard itself has problems.

If the gameboard is suspected, the problems I used to see on it were either the cold solder joints on the connector header pins (usually on the power input connector) or the video ram chips and/or the video graphics processor chip have gone bad.

Thanks, Ken! I read a bunch of old posts about this and it seems to be pretty common. I am gonna start with the green caps on the Power Supply since I have them here ready to go.

 

[blkdog7]

The +5 is dead nuts on out of the power supply. It's exactly 5V.

The 21v is reading at 25v. Could this be my issue? How do I fix that?

What is the pot on the front of the power supply?

 

[KenLayton]

21 volts is unregulated. It only runs sound amplifier on the gameboard.

If you read your manual, the pot on the front of the power supply chassis is the target head lamp dimmer. It only works during game over.

 

[cadillacman]

+1 for sticky segments and or dart tips stuck in there... +1 for cold solder all over.....

did you redo the traces to the rectifier yet?
did you put a fan in there yet??

other than that to the old touch test to chips on the board and see if any are running extremely hot...

 

[blkdog7]

Ok, I think I am making progress. Thank god I bought two complete units for $25.00.

So, I tried disconnecting the dart board from the main PCB and left it in attract. Same deal. It locks up even when the dart board is disconnected. So, that has been ruled out.

The second dart board I have had a 6000 board in it (no dip switch).

So, I stuck that board in. Oddly, it has a newer 2.7 ROM while my 6300 board has a 2.2.

Anyways... the 6000 board has been rock solid all night. Hasn't locked up once.

But, I want that 6300 board so I can enable double bull (one of my dart boards is a double bull one.)

So, I swapped what I think are the two video RAM chips (are the video ram chips the TMs4416 memory chips?) and the TMS9118 video chip from the 6000 to the 6300 board. So, if it was the video chips that were locking it up then this should make the 6300 board work without locking up. Cross your fingers. I also swapped out roms so the newer 2.7 ROM is in the 6300.

I also took apart the double bull board and cleaned it up. It is a double bull board (that's what it says on the back) but doesn't have the double bull insert. So, I need to get that.

And, lastly... where can I buy the LED lamps and sockets that go in the main PCB for the throw darts and remove darts lights? I am missing one and the ones I have are not too bright.

Anyways, I am gonna leave the board on for an hour or so and see if it locks up. I think I fixed this thing with your guidance, Ken!! THANKS!! Thanks Cadillac too.

 

[blkdog7]

By gum, I think I fixed it!! I just played a three player game of Cricket, no lock ups. First time I have gotten through a game. Woot!!

Cadillac, how do I go about installing that fan? What do I wire it into?

 

[KenLayton]

Any updates?

I just scanned a bunch of English Mark Darts 6000 (Super Six) and Galaxy manuals & schematics. They've been sent to Michael Roma's site and should be posted in the next few days.

EDIT:

All manuals posted there now.

 

[cadillacman]

jusat get a pc type 12 volter and hook it up to the 12v on the ps...

i didnt even solder mine i just used thin wire stuck it inside the connector then plugged it back in to make a tight connection.


iirc one of my old ad600s kept acting up and the video ram was running hella hot..

replaced and all good.. I **might** have some leftover spare chips but ill have to look.


i know i have a spare tested working 6000 board but its a oldie for single bull... and iirc theres one chip with a chunk out of it but when tested again ti was working...albeit 2 years ago lol

 

[KenLayton]

Converting a 6000 (Super Six), 6100 (Super Six Plus), 6200 & 6300 (Super Six Plus 2) power supply from that crappy linear design to a modern switching regulator. You will need a screw terminal switching regulator power supply capable of outputing at least 3 amps on the +12 volt line. The reason for this is that the monitor, amplifier, and coin door lamps/gameboard lamps/pushbutton lamps all run on the 12 volts.

1. Remove the old circuit board that's screwed to the big blue capacitor.

2. Remove the big blue electrolytic capacitor and it's mounting bracket.

3. Remove the power transformer. Follow it's black wires underneath the chassis to the lamp dimmer circuit board. Now cut off the black wires an inch or two away from the board.

4. Butt splice an 18 gauge stranded wire to each of the black wires you just cut on that board. The wires should be about a foot long for each one. These will be the AC power wires to the new switching regulator power supply.

5. Place the new switching power supply on top of the chassis and mark locations of it's mounting brackets and drill four 3/32" holes. When drilling the holes be sure not to drill through the lamp dimmer board (or it's components) and make sure no metal filings/shavings fall on the board. Mount the new supply with four #6 sheet metal screws about 1/4" to 3/8" long.

6. Now to connect the DC outputs of the new supply to the game harness. Connect all the +5 volt wires of the game wiring harness (pins 4 and 6) to the +5 volt terminal on the new supply. Connect all the GROUND wires of the game wiring harness (pins 1, 3, 9, and 10) to the Common terminals on the new supply. Connect all the +12 volt (pins 5, 7, and 8) AND the +21 volt (pin 2) wires to the +12 volt terminal on the new power supply. The +21 volts was for the audio amplifier which will work fine on the +12 volt connection.

 

[dkintzel]

super 6 galaxy upgrade

I have a super 6 upgraded to a galaxy that stopped working. The board lights come on but everything else is dead. I replaced the monitor the cpu unit and the power supply but still the same result. Any ideas on the cause?

 

[KenLayton]

Galaxy games have TWO power switches. They are shown in the manuals.

One switch shuts off the lights and the other shuts off the game logic, power supply, and monitor.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Darts/Arachnid/6300_Power_Supply_to_Galaxy_PS.pdf

 

[dkintzel]

thank you for the galaxy manual it ended up being a broken wire on the wire harness. Now that i bought all new parts I would like to get another cabinet so I could have 2. Anyone have an old super 6 or galaxy cabinet for sale that doesn't work?

 

[blkdog7]

Any updates?

I just scanned a bunch of English Mark Darts 6000 (Super Six) and Galaxy manuals & schematics. They've been sent to Michael Roma's site and should be posted in the next few days.

EDIT:

All manuals posted there now.

I forgot exactly what I did, but my dart board is rock solid and I have the double bull. I frickin' LOVE this dart board. LOVE IT!