Arachnid Super Six Dart Board Repair Help

blkdog7

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I picked up two Super Six dart boards and I want to get one working using the two. I know nothing about these or where to begin. I can't seem to find a manual or anything online.

They look like this (heads were removed for transport):

19.jpg


The nicest dart board (and the one I am going to make work) had a label on it that said "dead monitor". So, I was hoping I would get it to at least play blind. When I plug it in, it does nothing. I think the Power Supply is bad. Don't know why I think that. But it is just a hunch. I checked the fuse in the power supply on the back and someone soldered a wire across it. There is no fuse.

So, where do I go from here?

Is there a site that has the manuals?

Is there a site selling parts for these still?
 
http://www.arachnidinc.com/support/6000/

Manuals available there.

First thing to do is remove the wire, put a proper fuse in its place, and see what got toasted further along in the power supply.

The Super Six dart boards are pretty simple pieces of equipment, and you probably won't have too much trouble getting both working.
 
And don't forget about the Arachnid manuals I put in at arcarc:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Darts/Arachnid/

I also wrote a repair guide for the 9" amber monitors they used in these machines. Remember, Arachnid used two different monitor manufacturers (Kristel and Omnivision) during the production run.

Ken, can I please have a copy of the repair guide?

blkdog7 @ gmail dot com
 
Replaced the fuse holder and powered it up. It blew the fuse instantly.

Pulled the power supply and saw that BR1 was burned up. So, that's totally shot. Looks like it caught on fire. So, I'm gonna replace that.

Any other parts for the power supply I should order and replace while I am at it?
 
Been scanning all the old threads about this thing.

I just ordered these from Bob:

Qty. (1) Regulator 5V-LM323K
Qty. (1) Bridge Rectifier 8A 200 PIV
Qty. (1) Bridge Rectifier 2A 200 PIV
Qty. (2) Capacitor .33 mfd 1 OOV (green mylar chicklet caps)
Qty. (1) Big Blue Capacitor 8900 MFD 25V

If you guys know of anything else I should be thinking of, please let me know.

Thanks!
 
Capacitor C9 on that power supply board is on the +12vdc line running the video monitor. This is a high failure item. Originally it was a 1 uf @ 25 volts. Arachnid issued a service bulletin to upgrade this part to a 2.2 uf @ 50 volts radial lead electrolytic capacitor. Later they revised that value yet again to 4.7 uf @ 50 volts.
 
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Capacitor C9 on that power supply board is on the +12vdc line running the video monitor. This is a high failure item. Originally it was a 1 uf @ 25 volts. Arachnid issued a service bulletin to upgrade this part to a 2.2 uf @ 50 volts radial lead electrolytic capacitor.

Thanks, Ken! I just added it to my order.

After inspecting my transformer, it looks like it really heated up. The goo from the inside dripped out and hardened. So, I sure hope the transformer is still good. That BR really messed things up.
 
I just won a Galaxy Power Supply off of Ebay. Will this work with the 6000? The seller said it would. The connectors look identical.

1731a.jpg


I need two power supplies. I want to get the second dartboard working too and it's missing a power supply.

Can anyone confirm if the above will work with a 6000?
 
It will work, but you won't have any sound. This power supply does not provide the needed +21 volts to the audio circuitry on the game board.

If you can live without sound this power supply will be plug n play otherwise.
 
It will work, but you won't have any sound. This power supply does not provide the needed +21 volts to the audio circuitry on the game board.

If you can live without sound this power supply will be plug n play otherwise.

Ken, you are amazing. Thank you!!!
 
might wan tot replace the triac(under the bug blue on bottom of power supply) as ive replaced a bunch fo those.. thats the triac that dims the playfield lights during gameplay..

The pot on the side of the power supply adjusted how dim or bright the lightds are during power off if i remember correctly...
 
also when you replace the biog rectifier leave it as high up away form the board as possible. ALso reinforce the traces with some old desoldering briad or something, the traces there tend to burn up, get weak etc.. maks sure you have a heat sink on there...

and also on the two i had i got a 12v pc fan and glued it to the rt side of the cab so that it blew air across the thing to help keep it cool...
 
one more thing.. i do have a early working pcb
(the one that does not use the seperate credit board and single bull deathead)

and i so have a dearhead in decent shape but there is black paint overspray(latex) all over it so it will need to bee taken apart and cleaned..

I do believe i also have a ad-6000? manual as well..

lmk if you need some krap.. ENjoy btw, those are great boards once they are fixed up!!!
 
one more thing.. i do have a early working pcb
(the one that does not use the seperate credit board and single bull deathead)

and i so have a dearhead in decent shape but there is black paint overspray(latex) all over it so it will need to bee taken apart and cleaned..

I do believe i also have a ad-6000? manual as well..

lmk if you need some krap.. ENjoy btw, those are great boards once they are fixed up!!!

Thanks, Cad!!

After looking at my power supply I realize it is totally hosed. The board is melted. I am sure I could get it to work with great effort and some jumpers. So.... I found a couple guys selling working power supplies. I should be getting them next week. If I need anything, I'll let you know. I am hoping to get both dart boards working and then sell the second.

I really can't wait to play this thing! My wife and I played the heck out of these back in the day.
 
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