applying old sideart

tester007

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I've applied lots of new repro stuff and have no issue with that, but have some almost 30 year old NOS stuff I'm going to apply on a cab. The backing has yellowed so it has aged. Its Atari, and instructions say that there are glass beads in the adhesive that will break and help adhesion when applied. Now when I peel back a bit of an edge and touch it, its tacky, but certainly not like new stuff.. so wondering if anyone has applied some pretty old NOS art before..

- If so, and if it was Atari did it indeed get tackier when the squeegy was run over it and broke the glass beads? I don't want this stuff to start peeling when applied as its full sideart top to bottom.

- I read before somewhere there was a spray used for applying vinyl art that helped with the adhesion.. anyone have the name of the stuff or a link? I usually use windex for large stuff, but this product did the same thing allowing shifting and removal of bubbles, but suposedly helped stick better as well.
 
I'm just about to go through the same situation that you described.

I've installed a lot of repro'd side art, however, I am going to do a NOS PolePositionII on a cab.

I never use the wet method. Do it dry and be patient.

My side is prepped smooth and sealed.

I'll be using a mist of 3M adhesive, comes in a can from Home Depot. I have done this numberous times with CPOs, no issues. Now, add a 6 ft tall sticker times 2 and it will take another set of hands....at least for me. I have no issues asking a buddy for help, especially if I know it won't turn out like this....

CrystalCastlesMoppet-1.jpg


;)
 
3m works on cpos because cpos are thick. I've used 3m on vinyl side art to fix a corner that had come up and was not happy with the results. Hard to describe but it looked a bit like the adhesive caused a bit of stretching/melting. Certainly didn't look like the other sections of the art that were still stuck to the cab from the original application.
 
contact cement works wonders on old side art. thin it a little bit per the directions on the can and spread out a light coat. you can put it on both sides if you are really daring, but if its big art I'd just put it on the cab. any excess can be rubbed off after it drys. good luck.
 
I never use the wet method. Do it dry and be patient.

I've done dry (full side Missile Command) and wet (pretty well everything after that) and have to say I wouldn't do anything but wet from now on.. its always absolutely perfect with not even the tiniest bubble anywhere....

I think the stuff I saw before was this 'rapid tac' spray..
http://www.signsupply.com/accessories/application_fluid.asp

anyone use this or something like it?
 
Problem with telling people that wet is the best is they need to know - water will raise the grain in plywood and swell about anything else. I wouldn't trust spraying liquid on a particleboard/MDF cabinet, even if you guaranteed it was sealed with zinsser sealer, paint, etc..
 
Problem with telling people that wet is the best is they need to know - water will raise the grain in plywood and swell about anything else. I wouldn't trust spraying liquid on a particleboard/MDF cabinet, even if you guaranteed it was sealed with zinsser sealer, paint, etc..

+1 and I agree!
 
Problem with telling people that wet is the best is they need to know - water will raise the grain in plywood and swell about anything else. I wouldn't trust spraying liquid on a particleboard/MDF cabinet, even if you guaranteed it was sealed with zinsser sealer, paint, etc..

Ya, I guess I assumed people working with a pourous, water absorbant surface would not need to be told, but like the Noice example above, guess I shouldn't assume anything! Good point.
 
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