eBay - 3rd Party APB complete seat

After you get some measurements on the seat itself, I can measure against mine as well since I have not put the sides back on yet. Basically just to confirm they are the same.

BY the way, get that other puck end off there as well. From what I saw on mine while taking it apart, the puck ends were glued on as well as those 3 screws. Your glue probably dissolved being out in the elements.
Yep, there was some evidence of glue on mine but it was pretty well dissolved. Just a few remnants. I got the other puck off, and that one still had T-mold on it so I think it slightly contained the swelling. Best I can guess, accounting for some minor swelling, the pucks dimensions are:

10-1/2" x 4-1/2"
1-3/8" radius on corners

Does that seem to match up with yours?
 
10 1/2" appears to be right but I have 3 1/2" for the other size. I assume your radius is correct.
 

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10 1/2" appears to be right but I have 3 1/2" for the other size. I assume your radius is correct.
Wow, OK it really swelled! I was wondering, as the T-molding no longer met at the seam, there is a good 3/4" gap between the ends.

Thanks!
 
Wow, OK it really swelled! I was wondering, as the T-molding no longer met at the seam, there is a good 3/4" gap between the ends.

Thanks!
Going back and looking at your pictures you can totally see where it expanded that direction to almost about an inch. Luckily those sides should be easy to make. The actual seat base doesn't look bad, but would also be interesting if that expanded in any direction versus mine that did not get wet.
 
Don't take measurements with the T molding installed.
Hard to see in those pictures, but I put it up to the actual wood underneath the tmolding to get the dimension. I have already installed the tmolding and had to use hot glue, so I am not pulling it out to get dimensions.
 
Hard to see in those pictures, but I put it up to the actual wood underneath the tmolding to get the dimension. I have already installed the tmolding and had to use hot glue, so I am not pulling it out to get dimensions.

I don't see what you are saying. The T molding is installed and the tongue side of the tape is on the outside of the T molding so I don't see how the measurement is correct unless you're subtracting the thickness x2 and not mentioning it.
 
I don't see what you are saying. The T molding is installed and the tongue side of the tape is on the outside of the T molding so I don't see how the measurement is correct unless you're subtracting the thickness x2 and not mentioning it.
From that angle it appears it's on the outside of the tmolding. It's actually on the inside of it. I'll remeasure and show it.
 
I took a bunch of seat measurements today but I think I need to mark up the photos to make clear what pieces I'm referring to. I'll try to do that tomorrow.
 
I don't see what you are saying. The T molding is installed and the tongue side of the tape is on the outside of the T molding so I don't see how the measurement is correct unless you're subtracting the thickness x2 and not mentioning it.
Here you go. Done with a straight edge and close up to see I'm only measuring the wood and not the actual tmolding.
 

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Here you go. Done with a straight edge and close up to see I'm only measuring the wood and not the actual tmolding.
You know those are such small pieces that I'm thinking about just grabbing a generic small black melamine shelf from Home Depot or Lowe's and cutting the side pucks from that…
 
You know those are such small pieces that I'm thinking about just grabbing a generic small black melamine shelf from Home Depot or Lowe's and cutting the side pucks from that…
You could definitely do that. 3/4" and then slot for tmolding.
 
I finally marked up some photos with measurements. Hopefully these are fairly clear and helpful.

The top of the seat:
IMG_4162.jpeg

3/4" plywood cut 16" wide x 9-1/2" deep, with what looks to be a 45 degree rip down each side (I didn't measure the angle exactly). The result is the seating surface is 16"x8". The bolt holes are spaced 6" o.c. On the long axis and 3" o.c. On the short axis. Bolt holes are centered 2-1/2" in from the long edge of the top surface and 5" in from the short edge. The holes are 3/4" diameter and have a 1/4-20 flange head bolt threaded through T-nuts on the underside. These form threaded studs which are used to attach the seat to the frame with nuts.

The underside:IMG_4163.jpeg

Constructed mainly of 3/4" blocking. There are two pieces, 14-1/4" each, on each of the long sides. One is in the corner between the main seat surface and the "vertical" side of the seat. The other is at the bottom edge of the vertical piece to form the "underside" lip that the covering is stapled to. There is a single piece of 3/4" blocking 6-1/4" long centered on each of the short sides. The next photo will add some context.

The profile:
IMG_4164.jpeg

Here you can see the main seat surface and the 9-1/2" overall length with the angled cuts to make the top face 8" wide. You can also see the short-side 3/4" blocking mentioned with the previous photo. The vertical sides of the seat are also made of 3/4" plywood, cut 16" long and 2-1/4" wide, with another 45 degree rip so the outer face is 1-1/2" wide. This is butted to the top piece to form an angled face, then a straight vertical face, and another angle that wraps toward the underside. A piece of 2-1/4" long 3/4" blocking is placed behind the vertical face for additional structural reinforcement. The long pieces of blocking from the underside pic are also visible here running down the length of the seat. One piece of that long blocking provides the bracing for the corner where the vertical piece butts to the top piece, and the other one provides the underside lip for securing the seat covering to. Now it's clear why those long blocking pieces are 14-1/2" long; there is a piece of 3/4" blocking placed perpendicular to the long blocking at each end, thus making an overall length of 16".

Another shot of the underside, showing the placement of the long blocking pieces to form the structure of the underside, and the aforementioned blocking on the short side that provides backing for the vertical piece as well as the short side of the seat.
IMG_4165.jpeg

This last shot shows the short blocking pieces and also the placement of the 3 screw holes that attach the side pucks to the main seat. The side pucks were also glued. The assembly was done with square-drive cabinetry screws like you'd typically see used with pocket holes.
IMG_4166.jpeg

One hole goes through the "short side" blocking, and the other two are in the gap between the two pieces of "long side" blocking on each side of the seat.

Happy to grab anything else anyone needs.
 
Did a quick measure of my seat and those measurements look good. Luckily the seat was plywood and not mdf or particle board because yours would have swollen up.
 
Did a quick measure of my seat and those measurements look good. Luckily the seat was plywood and not mdf or particle board because yours would have swollen up.
Yeah, my seat surface really seems fine, surprising when the side pucks had swollen so badly. I couldn't find a melamine shelf that was 3/4" thick that wasn't stupid expensive, so I will just cut new pucks from plywood and laminate them myself. I just keep laminate on hand these days, lol.

I am going to apply some wood hardener to the wood though before painting and wrapping it.
 
I am going to apply some wood hardener to the wood though before painting and wrapping it.
Probably a good idea. I just filled some holes in my seat with some wood glue and then spray painted the whole thing black.
 

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I finally marked up some photos with measurements. Hopefully these are fairly clear and helpful.

The top of the seat:
View attachment 800467

3/4" plywood cut 16" wide x 9-1/2" deep, with what looks to be a 45 degree rip down each side (I didn't measure the angle exactly). The result is the seating surface is 16"x8". The bolt holes are spaced 6" o.c. On the long axis and 3" o.c. On the short axis. Bolt holes are centered 2-1/2" in from the long edge of the top surface and 5" in from the short edge. The holes are 3/4" diameter and have a 1/4-20 flange head bolt threaded through T-nuts on the underside. These form threaded studs which are used to attach the seat to the frame with nuts.

The underside:View attachment 800451

Constructed mainly of 3/4" blocking. There are two pieces, 14-1/4" each, on each of the long sides. One is in the corner between the main seat surface and the "vertical" side of the seat. The other is at the bottom edge of the vertical piece to form the "underside" lip that the covering is stapled to. There is a single piece of 3/4" blocking 6-1/4" long centered on each of the short sides. The next photo will add some context.

The profile:
View attachment 800456

Here you can see the main seat surface and the 9-1/2" overall length with the angled cuts to make the top face 8" wide. You can also see the short-side 3/4" blocking mentioned with the previous photo. The vertical sides of the seat are also made of 3/4" plywood, cut 16" long and 2-1/4" wide, with another 45 degree rip so the outer face is 1-1/2" wide. This is butted to the top piece to form an angled face, then a straight vertical face, and another angle that wraps toward the underside. A piece of 2-1/4" long 3/4" blocking is placed behind the vertical face for additional structural reinforcement. The long pieces of blocking from the underside pic are also visible here running down the length of the seat. One piece of that long blocking provides the bracing for the corner where the vertical piece butts to the top piece, and the other one provides the underside lip for securing the seat covering to. Now it's clear why those long blocking pieces are 14-1/2" long; there is a piece of 3/4" blocking placed perpendicular to the long blocking at each end, thus making an overall length of 16".

Another shot of the underside, showing the placement of the long blocking pieces to form the structure of the underside, and the aforementioned blocking on the short side that provides backing for the vertical piece as well as the short side of the seat.
View attachment 800458

This last shot shows the short blocking pieces and also the placement of the 3 screw holes that attach the side pucks to the main seat. The side pucks were also glued. The assembly was done with square-drive cabinetry screws like you'd typically see used with pocket holes.
View attachment 800459

One hole goes through the "short side" blocking, and the other two are in the gap between the two pieces of "long side" blocking on each side of the seat.

Happy to grab anything else anyone needs.
Been so excited to start the cuts, I forgot to add praise for the easy to follow measurements.
Thanks much for the effort @ccie38296 and @brmorr !
This has been an exciting mini project that also made use of small annoying scrap pieces .
image.jpg
A pic of dry run so far .
 
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