Anyone know how to wire this board to a System II cab?

sohchx

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Anyone know how to wire this board to a System II cab?

I Have an ARIII installed in a system II cabinet with a switcher but I want to install this board pictured instead since the ARIII is bad. DO I keep the switcher that's already installed,or do I take it out? on the system II's which harness connects to where on this board?
 

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I Have an ARIII installed in a system II cabinet with a switcher but I want to install this board pictured instead since the ARIII is bad. DO I keep the switcher that's already installed,or do I take it out? on the system II's which harness connects to where on this board?

Where'd you get that board? I have that in my Marble Madness but not my other two sys.1 games. I like it because it runs so much cooler than the A/R III boards. I'm not sure how helpful it would be but I can get you some pictures tonight.
 
I like it because it runs so much cooler than the A/R III boards.

That's because an A/R III is a voltage regulator as well as and audio amplifier. The linear voltage regulator is what generates much of the heat. The photographed PCB is only an audio amplifier (Audio II board).

An AR III would also run cool voltage regulation was done by an seperate switching PS, and it was only used for audio amplification...
 
Where'd you get that board? I have that in my Marble Madness but not my other two sys.1 games. I like it because it runs so much cooler than the A/R III boards. I'm not sure how helpful it would be but I can get you some pictures tonight.

The board came from an APB and is standard in them.Some people are running these in system II cabs also rerouting the power to this board and the two main boards somehow.
 
That's because an A/R III is a voltage regulator as well as and audio amplifier. The linear voltage regulator is what generates much of the heat. The photographed PCB is only an audio amplifier (Audio II board).

An AR III would also run cool voltage regulation was done by an seperate switching PS, and it was only used for audio amplification...

Do you know how I would convert my game from running the ARIII and switcher over to running the audio II and switcher? This is a question I have been trying to get answered for almost two weeks.
 
No one can help me with this?? This sucks so much ass right now!!!! I finally get my #2 grail and can't even enjoy it.
 
It's for Paperboy

OK, I get what you're trying to do. You want to use this board as a replacement audio amplifier, because the ARIII board is dead. Does the game run with the switcher that's installed? Basically, is it working, but just with no sound?

If you look at the schematic package for APB, you can find the pinouts and schematic for that audio board. It looks pretty straight forward, power input, speaker input, speaker output. That board is a stereo amplifier - I don't remember if Paperboy is a stereo game or not. That audio board also has the coin counter output on it, which you can safely ignore. Also, if you look at the schematic for the board, it appears that it only needs 12VAC center tapped in order to work - the 17VAC is not used by the Audio II itself. It would be trivial to wire this board up independantly and use it as an amplifier. If you didn't want to tap into the power brick, you could even use a cheap Radio Shack 12v transformer to power it.

-Ian
 
OK, I get what you're trying to do. You want to use this board as a replacement audio amplifier, because the ARIII board is dead. Does the game run with the switcher that's installed? Basically, is it working, but just with no sound?

If you look at the schematic package for APB, you can find the pinouts and schematic for that audio board. It looks pretty straight forward, power input, speaker input, speaker output. That board is a stereo amplifier - I don't remember if Paperboy is a stereo game or not. That audio board also has the coin counter output on it, which you can safely ignore. Also, if you look at the schematic for the board, it appears that it only needs 12VAC center tapped in order to work - the 17VAC is not used by the Audio II itself. It would be trivial to wire this board up independantly and use it as an amplifier. If you didn't want to tap into the power brick, you could even use a cheap Radio Shack 12v transformer to power it.

-Ian

Exactly!! Yes the game runs fine in conjunction with the switcher just no sound. I get speaker hiss and nothing else.Paperboy is indeed a stereo game. I have the schematics for APB in my possesion,I also have an APB machine that runs the setup that I want to change over to. Being that,that game is also system II shouldn't I be able to copy the setup wire by wire? WOuldn't all the wire colors be the same between both cabinets? I know that running the Audio II in the game will work as others here have the same setup. I just figured,why buy another ARIII when I have the working AUdio II?
 
Exactly!! Yes the game runs fine in conjunction with the switcher just no sound. I get speaker hiss and nothing else.Paperboy is indeed a stereo game. I have the schematics for APB in my possesion,I also have an APB machine that runs the setup that I want to change over to. Being that,that game is also system II shouldn't I be able to copy the setup wire by wire? WOuldn't all the wire colors be the same between both cabinets? I know that running the Audio II in the game will work as others here have the same setup. I just figured,why buy another ARIII when I have the working AUdio II?

I don't know what the colors will be or how they will match up, but you should be able to wire in the Audio II just like it is on the APB schematics.

Before you jump to conclusions here and start wiring, you say you get speaker hiss? That's usually a sign that the amplifier is working. Can you hear scratchy noises when you turn the volume control? What I would do is get a cheap set of amplified computer speakers and some wire, and manually tap into the unamplified audio line going in to the ARIII. The Paperboy schematics show it as being pins 1, 2, 8 and 9 on the P8 connector. Just get some little bits of wire or a paper clip and stick it down itnto the connector from the back - no need to cut and splice. You're just trying to see if the game board is actually generating audio. Pin 1 (yellow wire) of P8 is audio channel 1, and pin 2 (white wire) is it's ground. If you can get another amplifier to produce paperboy sound there, then the amplifier is at fault. If not, then the game board isn't producing sound.

-Ian
 
I don't know what the colors will be or how they will match up, but you should be able to wire in the Audio II just like it is on the APB schematics.

Before you jump to conclusions here and start wiring, you say you get speaker hiss? That's usually a sign that the amplifier is working. Can you hear scratchy noises when you turn the volume control? What I would do is get a cheap set of amplified computer speakers and some wire, and manually tap into the unamplified audio line going in to the ARIII. The Paperboy schematics show it as being pins 1, 2, 8 and 9 on the P8 connector. Just get some little bits of wire or a paper clip and stick it down itnto the connector from the back - no need to cut and splice. You're just trying to see if the game board is actually generating audio. Pin 1 (yellow wire) of P8 is audio channel 1, and pin 2 (white wire) is it's ground. If you can get another amplifier to produce paperboy sound there, then the amplifier is at fault. If not, then the game board isn't producing sound.

-Ian

The hiss sounds as if the speaker is turned up all the way but for some reason when I turn the volume up or down there is no change. I tested the volume pot and it does work.
 
The hiss sounds as if the speaker is turned up all the way but for some reason when I turn the volume up or down there is no change. I tested the volume pot and it does work.

Then there is probably definitely something wrong with the amplifier. Check things common to both channels first. The two stereo channels are almost completely separate, but they do use the same power source. Is there adequate power getting to the ARIII? Check for AC voltage at pins 7 and 8 of J6, and check for the presence of 22v on the 22vdc test point.

-Ian
 
where is the 22VDC test point located?

It's on the ARIII board... somewhere. I'm looking at the schematic, not the board, so I don't know exactly. It'll be a little metal tab, and should be labelled on the board. Should be near C26 and C27, as it's connected to the positive side of both.

-Ian
 
I tested for AC voltage at pins 7 and 8 of J6 and got 17V on each pin, and checked for the presence of 22v on the 22vdc test point which gave me 23VDC. I have two different types of speakers for testing,the square set is battery operated and has a single wire plug end. The other round pair of speakers are non battery powered and have a dual wired plug end. WHich do you suggest I use and do I have to cut the plug off the end?
 

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I also found that there is no P8 on the ARIII,did you mean J8? That is designated as the audio plug pictured below
 

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I tested for AC voltage at pins 7 and 8 of J6 and got 17V on each pin, and checked for the presence of 22v on the 22vdc test point which gave me 23VDC. I have two different types of speakers for testing,the square set is battery operated and has a single wire plug end. The other round pair of speakers are non battery powered and have a dual wired plug end. WHich do you suggest I use and do I have to cut the plug off the end?

Use the speakers that are powered, as you need something with an amplifier for this test.

You don't have to cut the plug off. If you have alligator clip leads, clip them onto the headphone plug - the ground is the "ring" - the part closest to the cable. The signal input is the very tip. Ignore the middle one, that's the other signal input - for testing, you only need one amplifier. If you don't have alligator clip leads, you really should... but if you don't, then you can use some telephone wire or something, wrap it around the plug and tape it.

You should now have two wires attached to the plug. To test that they're connected, touch them with your fingers and to each other - you should get buzzing and popping noise coming from the speakers.

Connect the signal wires to the connector on the game, either with aligator clips, or by jamming the bare wires into the back of the connector plug, or whatever makes contact. J8 is the connector I was referring to earlier - the part of the manual I was looking at just calls it P8. (P8 is technically the plug on the harness, while J8 is the socket on the board... but since they're plugged together, they're one in the same, electrically). You really want to be connecting to the wires in the harness, so you technically don't need to have the harness plugged into the AR board. You can unplug it and jam the wires down into the holes in the connector to make contact. The idea is to connect the audio output from the game board to the amplified computer speaker. If you're using alligator clips, some bits of wire from a paper clip make great test probes - just jam them into the holes in the connector and clip the alligator clips to them.

Pin 1 (yellow wire) goes to the amplified speaker's signal input (tip of headphone plug), and pin 2 is signal ground, goes to the outer ring of the speaker's headphone plug.

Turn on the game and play, you should be getting game music coming through the computer speakers. If you don't, double check your connections. If you're definitely still not getting sound, then there is something wrong with the game board. If you get sound through the computer speakers, then there is definitely something wrong with your ARIII board's amp, and wiring in a substitute is the way to go.

-Ian
 
No one can help me with this?? This sucks so much ass right now!!!! I finally get my #2 grail and can't even enjoy it.

You obviously didn't ask the right person, now did you?

The answer is very simple. You will need the scat for PaperBoy and the scat for Championship Sprint. When you have both in hand, get back to me and I will tell you how to wire it up correctly.
 
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