Anyone here use dimmer switches for gameroom lighting?

TheBasement

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Anyone here use dimmer switches for gameroom lighting?

I am asking because my gameroom currently has 600W of lighting on a single switch. No fans, just straight can lights. I have been wanting to put in a dimmer switch for some time, for ambience and to cut down on generated light heat during prolonged game days.

So I bought a 600W dimmer at a hardware store and that sucker got hot. I mean so hot it melted a wire nut after 2 hours. OK, I get it, I was pushing the maximum load. So next thing I did was purchase a Levitron 1000W dimmer. I should be OK now, since I'm pushing 600W on a 1000W switch. I know these things should dissipate more heat when dimming, but I'm testing with the dimmer on full brightness. My kids usually go down there and watch TV and stuff so it will usually be at 100% lighting (I just want the dimming as an option). So even with a higher rated dimmer, this thing still gets hot. If I take off the wall plate and touch the metal tabs, they are hot to the touch. I know they are there to dissipate heat, but really is that the best design they can come up with?

So the question for all you folks out there. Who is using dimmer switches, what loads are you using, and is this just plain normal and will not burn down my house? I'm just needing some reassurance here. I'd really like to keep the dimmer option, but the heat is making me nervous. Thanks for any input.

[FYI: Because my ceiling is finished and the wiring is set in stone, I cannot break this off into 2 switches for a lighter load, that's just not an option]
 
I tried and apparently those energy efficient cfl's don't work with a dimmer they just flicker.
 
they make dimmable cfi, but I think they suck. It shortens the life and they don't seem to have much range.

It sounds like you have a lot of light 600 watts? Have you tried going with 75W bulbs, or even 60W. You might find the lighting is adequate.
 
they make dimmable cfi, but I think they suck. It shortens the life and they don't seem to have much range.

It sounds like you have a lot of light 600 watts? Have you tried going with 75W bulbs, or even 60W. You might find the lighting is adequate.

Yeah, I really don't want to lower the wattage in the bulbs. I like the current output in the lights at 100% for most of the time. I just would like the dimmer for gamedays and mood lighting on occasions. Lowering the wattage, would basically mean I don't need the dimmer. I am covering 1100 square feet with only 600 watts, so I need every bit of it most of the time.
 
Is it in a single gang box or a box with more switches?

Does it over heat with the face plate off? If its a single gang, could always cut in a double gang and use a blank filler to give the switch more breathing room.
 
Is it in a single gang box or a box with more switches?

Does it over heat with the face plate off? If its a single gang, could always cut in a double gang and use a blank filler to give the switch more breathing room.

It's a single gang and I am thankful for any helpful comments. I guess my issue, is that this *should* work properly in a single gang box. It seems as if its a known problem, then I shouldn't be trying to band aid this by allowing more heat sink room. Does anyone use these in a living room, kitchen or other areas perhaps?
 
I've got 1220 watts in my basement on one switch. I had to go with a 1500 watt dimmer. I bought a Lutron model that has a heat sink that sits in between the box and a larger than normal cover plate. Heat is never an issue. This is a 3-way circuit so the model I bought was around $150. It's a slider with a pushbutton built into the slider for off/on. Looks like the models they have now sit flush...improved technology has cut down on the heat dissipated I suppose...
I would have thought that the 1000watt one would be fine though...I've got 560 watts on a run of the mill 1000watt in the master bath and it's fine. It can get warm but no where near melting anything.

Edit: have any way to measure the temp? what feels to hot may actually be fine?
 
I've got 1220 watts in my basement on one switch. I had to go with a 1500 watt dimmer. I bought a Lutron model that has a heat sink that sits in between the box and a larger than normal cover plate. Heat is never an issue. This is a 3-way circuit so the model I bought was around $150. It's a slider with a pushbutton built into the slider for off/on. Looks like the models they have now sit flush...improved technology has cut down on the heat dissipated I suppose...
I would have thought that the 1000watt one would be fine though...I've got 560 watts on a run of the mill 1000watt in the master bath and it's fine. It can get warm but no where near melting anything.

Edit: have any way to measure the temp? what feels to hot may actually be fine?

Well, the plastic cover itself seems to just get warm. It's the metal fins inside when I take the cover off that get really hot and was concerning me. I suppose what you are feeling as just warm with the 560watts might be hot with the cover plate off. So I'm guessing that's what I was wanting to know are people running similar without any issues, and it sounds like you are doing it.
 
How a 600 dollar solution?

:D http://www.eaglelight.com/c=EFWqmv9...6W12-D/16W-Dimmable-LED-PAR38-Flood-Lamp.html


I have 8 cans in my home theater...this would cost more than the projector.

If money is no object this is the eco friendly soluton.

I was curious about this, so I looked up all kinds of PAR38 LED solutions. The reality is, that its all about the lumens and less about the wattage. Unfortunately the lumens on these run 800 to 1000 lumens. My current PAR38 bulbs put out 1500 lumens. So I would be losing 30% to 50% of my light output.
 
I have 12 cans in my room. I split the cans between two switches. On the dimmer, I have six 60 watt floods, the other non dimmer six cfl's. I believe the dimmer is a 600 watt, the one home depot sells for 15 bucks with the slider in the same space as the switch. It gets warm, but not hot. This way you get two stages of dimming. I'm only lighting 440 sq ft though.
 
My father-in-law is a electrician and he is over playing some Holdem. His comment is that 600 watt is not that much and when he has seen wire nuts melt, it is due to they are put on loose. He suggests, strip the wires back and renut it (tight) and on the safe side, he agrees in buying a 1000 watt dimmer.

Then he went through all the scenarios and questions "Does the dimmer buzz?" "Are the lights fluorescent?", etc.

Good luck!

I am asking because my gameroom currently has 600W of lighting on a single switch. No fans, just straight can lights. I have been wanting to put in a dimmer switch for some time, for ambience and to cut down on generated light heat during prolonged game days.

So I bought a 600W dimmer at a hardware store and that sucker got hot. I mean so hot it melted a wire nut after 2 hours. OK, I get it, I was pushing the maximum load. So next thing I did was purchase a Levitron 1000W dimmer. I should be OK now, since I'm pushing 600W on a 1000W switch. I know these things should dissipate more heat when dimming, but I'm testing with the dimmer on full brightness. My kids usually go down there and watch TV and stuff so it will usually be at 100% lighting (I just want the dimming as an option). So even with a higher rated dimmer, this thing still gets hot. If I take off the wall plate and touch the metal tabs, they are hot to the touch. I know they are there to dissipate heat, but really is that the best design they can come up with?

So the question for all you folks out there. Who is using dimmer switches, what loads are you using, and is this just plain normal and will not burn down my house? I'm just needing some reassurance here. I'd really like to keep the dimmer option, but the heat is making me nervous. Thanks for any input.

[FYI: Because my ceiling is finished and the wiring is set in stone, I cannot break this off into 2 switches for a lighter load, that's just not an option]
 
My father-in-law is a electrician and he is over playing some Holdem. His comment is that 600 watt is not that much and when he has seen wire nuts melt, it is due to they are put on loose. He suggests, strip the wires back and renut it (tight) and on the safe side, he agrees in buying a 1000 watt dimmer.

Then he went through all the scenarios and questions "Does the dimmer buzz?" "Are the lights fluorescent?", etc.

Good luck!

I appreciate the input. If he thinks 600 watts through a 1000 watt dimmer is fine as an electrician, then I'll go with that. They don't buzz, and it is not fluorescent lights. Just standard can floodlights.

Just as an FYI, when the wire nut melted, it was running 600 watts through a 600 watt dimmer. The wire nut melted on the side because it was touching the hot case of the dimmer, so lessen learned, when they say maximum 600 watts they really don't want you to run 600 watts through the device.
 
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