Anyone have luck with the 8-Liner chassis?

hit and miss, definately a cheap way to get a "new" monitor ....especially now that crt monitors are getting a little rare the old tv and 8liner chassis deal seems to be getting more popular. IIRC those are wei-ya type chassis..
 
i don't know about $72 shipped. I priced them the other day at $54.95 + shipping....
 
i don't know about $72 shipped. I priced them the other day at $54.95 + shipping....

Prices change constantly but that's what I paid ~4 months ago. Instead of arguing a price why don't you state what they quoted you with shipping?? I would imagine we're talking ~ a $5 difference.
 
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I bought a chassis from them several years ago and used it in my Gorf cocktail with a TV tube. It's a Jen Shinn and once I got everything dialed in to my liking it's worked like a champ. Google search for "victor genao chassis 8liners" and you'll find a few detailed posts about them from a few years ago. No idea what brand of chassis he is currently selling.
 
I bought a chassis from them several years ago and used it in my Gorf cocktail with a TV tube. It's a Jen Shinn and once I got everything dialed in to my liking it's worked like a champ. Google search for "victor genao chassis 8liners" and you'll find a few detailed posts about them from a few years ago. No idea what brand of chassis he is currently selling.

Victor only carries the Wei-ya brand now. I spoke with Jen Shinn directly and they were very tight lipped about Victor .. something went down that no one wants to talk about. BTW - alvaamusements is considerably cheaper than 8liners.
 
Prices change constantly but that's what I paid ~4 months ago. Instead of arguing a price why don't you state what they quoted you with shipping?? I would imagine we're talking ~ a $5 difference.

Wasn't arguing. And I don't know the final price. We ordered several at once, and my work paid for it...
 
Alva's website dosent show a 19" standard Res. Chassis. Looks like CGA only comes in 25" and above?

http://alvaamusement.com/id5.html

I just bought and used two 19" 8-pin small-neck low-impedance chassis' from Alva. Hooked them up to a couple early-version Vision Pro's (Kortek's) that had lost flybacks (can't get replacements). Great pictures for both. No isolation transformer required. $54.95/each + shipping...
 
I just bought and used two 19" 8-pin small-neck low-impedance chassis' from Alva. Hooked them up to a couple early-version Vision Pro's (Kortek's) that had lost flybacks (can't get replacements). Great pictures for both. No isolation transformer required. $54.95/each + shipping...

Thats the one I need. The Magnavox TV has a small neck 8-pin, vetical ohms jump from 55-85 so my guess is high impedence? I guess I just need to call Alva and tell them what I have? Iso dosent matter, its going in Ms. Pac-Man with original power brick, so it will have an iso whether its needed or not.

Also, do those have the standard 6-3 pinout? And how does it degauss? Do I need a degausser from an old arcade monitor?
 
No, it has a weird 5-pin video connector, but they send a harness for it to wire in if you don't want to install the 6-3 like most games used (and as Ken posted instructions on changing these in one of the threads about this).

They also send a Yoke connector harness (in case your yoke connector is different like mine was) to splice in, DAG wiring if your tube is missing it, and it comes with a power cord hard-soldered in but with a 220vac plug on the end.

Just cut the 220vac plug off the end, put the proper Molex for your cab on, figure out how to mount the chassis to your frame, do whatever adaption you want for the video signal, connect your old DAG wire to the neckboard (using the new one they send if necessary), connect the yoke connector, and you're good to go.

When it first boots up the focus and brightness will be off, and the size and placement will be way off, but you can adjust it to where you need it...
 
Wei-ya 19" standard resolution (CGA) chassis:

# 820H High impedance vertical yoke, 29 mm neck diameter (a.k.a. 10 pin), requires isolation transformer

# 820S High impedance vertical yoke, 22.5 mm neck diameter (a.k.a. 8 pin), requires isolation transformer

# 1220H Low impedance vertical yoke, 29 mm neck diameter (a.k.a. 10 pin), requires isolation transformer

#1220S Low impedance vertical yoke, 22.5 mm neck diameter (a.k.a. 8 pin), requires isolation transformer

# 2820H High impedance vertical yoke, 29 mm neck diameter (a.k.a. 10 pin), does not need isolation transformer

# 2820S High impedance vertical yoke, 22.5 mm neck diameter, (a.k.a. 8 pin), does not need isolation transformer.

Medium resolution (EGA) 19" chassis:

# 1520H no other information available

All of the above chassis will have the wrong connectors for the American market. These will need to be "Americanized" in order to be plug n play with our wiring and connector standards as mentioned here:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97584.0
 
All of the above chassis will have the wrong connectors for the American market. These will need to be "Americanized" in order to be plug n play with our wiring and connector standards as mentioned here:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=97584.0

OK, I see where you can solder a 6-pin header (next to the 5-pin), but where does the 3-pin go?

Would it be easier to make a homemade adapter?
 

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These chassis accept composite negative sync only.

You'll need to pop the sync pins out of the 3 pin connector and move them into the correct positions in the 6 pin housing.
 
For the record, the Wei-Ya chassis I got from Alva had the connector in a different place than in that pic, but had the space next to it for the 6-pin to be added...
 
Sounds like it might be a better idea just to build an adapter between the two? That way I wont have to move pins around or hack my game.
 
Sounds like it might be a better idea just to build an adapter between the two? That way I wont have to move pins around or hack my game.

I've never bothered with replacing the header simply because the kit provides you a connector that works with the current header and since most games have a molex connector with wires punched down pull them out and wire them directly to the provided harness. Obviously some games require positive sync where as others require negative so before you make the sync wires a permanent connection make sure your sync is correct. You can count on chopping the AC connector off and putting a standard 3 prong on it. To each their own - no right or wrong way of doing this is just what I do.
 
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