Anybody like Xybots?

I picked this up a few weeks ago. Great game, but needs some work and I'm new to this. Trying to find a joystick.
Nice! It was one of my early acquisitions as well. Kinda regret selling it, just looks so cool in the row.
The joysticks can be hard to locate sometimes, as well as pricey at times. But they do turn up.
 
Been reading up on this Sharp XM-2001N Nintendo monitor setup, and between the notorious yoke failures and the shitty aftermarket flybacks, I see a 19" with K7000 in this thing's future. I did clean and re-cap the chassis. It now has a nice, colorful, but slightly narrow and off-center picture. The plastic case on the flyback is beginning to crumble…
 

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Been reading up on this Sharp XM-2001N Nintendo monitor setup, and between the notorious yoke failures and the shitty aftermarket flybacks, I see a 19" with K7000 in this thing's future. I did clean and re-cap the chassis. It now has a nice, colorful, but slightly narrow and off-center picture. The plastic case on the flyback is beginning to crumble…
Looks like it's just dirty. I don't see crumbles. I see grime.

Maybe I'm missing something?
 
Same monitor in my assault. Had that exact same cracked spot on the flyback too. Gave me one helluva zap when I brushed up against it. Made my hair stick up on one side.
The new one from APAR seems to be working ok.
Just have annoying black bleeding that I can't adjust out.
 
The cracks are very fine and can't be seen in the photo. They almost can't be seen with it all cleaned up. The screw location at the top broke clean off.
 
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I have Xybots with an XM-2001N. Screen looked like an Apple II when I bought it. After messing with some pots I got it looking ok. Top inch of the screen is shaky/blurry and I can't adjust it out. Fortunately Xybots doesn't really use this part.

The interesting thing is after the game warms up for a few minutes the screen will fix itself and look perfect. Then after another few minutes it goes back.

So I know it's capable of displaying a great picture. I'm assuming a cap kit could fix this problem. Or a new flyback. Both?

I'm not able to do this myself yet so I'll try to find someone local. Seller of the game included a cap kit, is that safe to use? Not sure where it came from or how old it is.

Thanks for reading.
 
Looks like it's just dirty. I don't see crumbles. I see grime.

Maybe I'm missing something?
Sorry, Sir. That pic was taken pre-grime removal. All spiffed up now.
I have Xybots with an XM-2001N. Screen looked like an Apple II when I bought it. After messing with some pots I got it looking ok. Top inch of the screen is shaky/blurry and I can't adjust it out. Fortunately Xybots doesn't really use this part.

The interesting thing is after the game warms up for a few minutes the screen will fix itself and look perfect. Then after another few minutes it goes back.

So I know it's capable of displaying a great picture. I'm assuming a cap kit could fix this problem. Or a new flyback. Both?

I'm not able to do this myself yet so I'll try to find someone local. Seller of the game included a cap kit, is that safe to use? Not sure where it came from or how old it is.

Thanks for reading.
The cap kit may solve your issues, especially if the caps are of a quality brand like Nichicon and yours are in cruddy shape. However, the consensus is that the yokes are notorious for burning up, and after 41 years, the flyback may be hanging on by a thread, with today's replacements being a 50/50 shot at $55 a pop. There are around 30 caps on the chassis so I'm sure the old girl will feel (and hopefully look) better with a fresh batch. Surprisingly, mine only had two really bad ones: a tiny little 10uf 16v and the red one right in the center of the board whose value I don't remember. I figured I'd have a handful of crap caps but that wasn't the case.
 
Sorry, Sir. That pic was taken pre-grime removal. All spiffed up now.

The cap kit may solve your issues, especially if the caps are of a quality brand like Nichicon and yours are in cruddy shape. However, the consensus is that the yokes are notorious for burning up, and after 41 years, the flyback may be hanging on by a thread, with today's replacements being a 50/50 shot at $55 a pop. There are around 30 caps on the chassis so I'm sure the old girl will feel (and hopefully look) better with a fresh batch. Surprisingly, mine only had two really bad ones: a tiny little 10uf 16v and the red one right in the center of the board whose value I don't remember. I figured I'd have a handful of crap caps but that wasn't the case.
It's usually after a cap kit that the magic smoke comes out - if it's going to.

The replacement caps end up changing the circuit impedance, which causes some components to experience different stresses, which may result in failiures.

For the record, I'll take a flyback made 20 or 40 years ago over a new one any day.

Lean manufacturing (delivering components that meet the minimum requirements) has led to more problems than you might imagine.
 
Be careful. The very first game I bought that started all the madness that brought me to this forum and began my collection over 25 years ago was,.... you guessed it! XYBOTS!

It was my favorite game at the local arcade when I was a kid. My best friend and I dropped quite a few quarters in that one.

Anyway, found it on Fleabay way back then for $250 buy it now. it was in North Carolina, i was in California. After I nabbed it, I called an arcade local to the seller and spoke to the owner. he said they shipped them out from time to time, and if the seller would bring it there, he would have his boys put it on a pallet and wrap it up. when I received it at the dock at work, it was well wrapped and strapped. his boys did an excellent job of it, and it got to me in one piece. the pack/ship job cost me $350 back then.

It still works great, and I've never done a thing to it except replace a microswitch on the left joystick. my arcade is currently just a storage room for now, but when I get back home full time, I will be making the rounds to all the games with 2n3055s and the fiberglass pen/deoxit dance.

~Dylan
 
Sorry, Sir. That pic was taken pre-grime removal. All spiffed up now.

The cap kit may solve your issues, especially if the caps are of a quality brand like Nichicon and yours are in cruddy shape. However, the consensus is that the yokes are notorious for burning up, and after 41 years, the flyback may be hanging on by a thread, with today's replacements being a 50/50 shot at $55 a pop. There are around 30 caps on the chassis so I'm sure the old girl will feel (and hopefully look) better with a fresh batch. Surprisingly, mine only had two really bad ones: a tiny little 10uf 16v and the red one right in the center of the board whose value I don't remember. I figured I'd have a handful of crap caps but that wasn't the case.
Thanks for the info. Google tells me I can test a yoke with a meter so I'll look into that. I'll try to inspect the caps as well.
 
The yoke checked out at 15.8 and 2.4 so that seemed ok.

I had measured b+ earlier at 112.8 which I thought was close enough. I was wrong. I got it to 110 and now the picture looks great top to bottom! Been on all morning and holding.

I'm super excited. Just wanted to thank everybody. I've probably read every thread on here that mentioned xybots or xm-2001n. I've learned so much in the last few weeks.

Again, thank you!
 
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