Any tips on re-attaching a Battlezone Bezel?

John566

New member

Donor 2016
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Location
Utah
I picked up a really nice Battlezone in Vegas and it is in great condition (CP and periscope are near perfect) except for it being covered in drywall dust. Someone left it uncovered in a warehouse when they were drywalling. The dust was everywhere, inside and out. I had to remove the stapled in back bezel (the one with gauges that the blacklight lights up) and now I'm not sure how to get it to stay back in place. It appears that in the factory they stapled it in before adding the tilted glass. I took the front periscope off and cleaned everything thoroughly but the wood that holds the tilted glass in place seems to be nailed in place. Am I missing something on how to remove the glass? Or does someone have a trick holding it in place from the back? Thanks for any help on this.
 
thats a fun one and takes me several hours to get it right. first when I staple the cardboard backing up I use the same 3 staple locations. I take them off a staple sleeve and hand nail them in. If its out of position the radar scope wont line up with the ticks on the display. There is a good article on making a nicer mylar cover.
http://www.biltronix.com/battlezone.html
It requires a week of ordering parts and meticulous detail int building a new one. I do that. I then do the cut outs of the wood as he describes and then side the new one into the premade slots you manufacture. Its set off the monitor and is predicatably in the correct place every time.
If you dont want to go that route get double sided 3m red foam tape from home depot or Ace cut thin strips 1/4 x 2inch and put them on the edges of the display BUT NOT YET. You have to go get some of the mylar sheeting in his article from walmart. its in the office supplies its 6 sheets for 5 bucks. You use it to join the red to the green if it comes apart. then you use it on the sides of the cleaned monitor overlay and cleaned monitor. well cleaned on the sides of the monitor or it wont stick. put it on punt the monitor in and lift the tape and move the mylar up and down until its in the right position green/red seperation from the front with the periscope off. Then if the round radar on the cardboard is off which it will be you must. first loosen the monitor carriage bolts and make sure the monitor os all the way forward. Not the monitor chassis bolt the two in back. then with it powered on and avoiding electrocution :) reach through between the back cardboard and the monitor and gently tug or pull the cardboard left or right (you can barely fit 1 finger tip in) until the radar scope lines up. this will only be a few 1/16th of an inch one way or the other and exactly the correct amount of how wrong you stapled the cardboard in. Again I use the same cardboard holes from the 3 staples. notice I have to go left or right a bit. shut down pull the monitor pull the staples with my finger and then nuge it and tap new staples in. Put the monitor in again an power up. It usually takes me 4-5 times then when its perfect i put in 2 more staples with hand and small hammer not stapler. I reassemble the monitor then I can secure the green/red/ mylar with the 2 pieces of sectioned red double sided. on the left and right side and a nice 1/4 in wide piece all the way across the red and green joining them together.
 
There are little wooden 'ears' that are attached to the grooved piece of wood holding the bottom of the mirror. On my cabinet there is one screw that attaches each ear to a block of wood glued to the cabinet side. Removing them allows the grooved piece of wood, and hence the mirror, to slide down and out the back of the cab.
 
Thank you both for the replies, it really helped. I was able to pull the mirror out and attach the back bezel securely and then slip the mirror back in. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, it's not perfect but close enough. It's too bad Atari didn't end up adding the pots for Horizontal and Vertical adjustments. I wonder if anyone has ever added them successfully. That would make things so easy.
 
...it's not perfect but close enough. It's too bad Atari didn't end up adding the pots for Horizontal and Vertical adjustments. I wonder if anyone has ever added them successfully. That would make things so easy.



Yes. Easy. There are spots on the board for the missing components, and it's even on the schematics (sheet 2 side B). You need a 1/4 watt 220 ohm resistor, a 0.1uF axial ceramic bypass cap, and a 50K ohm pot like Bourns 3352W-1-503LF.

Edit: Two of each!
86989b74858eed192c5c809805159b04.jpg

eba06c77dc5e4876c6029339146ac53b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom