Any more ideas to remove the flippin' cpo glue?

Why? Does it prevent the new paint from sticking?

No, because in my experience, Goo Gone is slow to work and not very aggressive, which is great for many situations, like removing mylar adhesive from playfield paint. Now, I did use Goo Gone on a recent panel, as I did not want to repaint the panel. It was in nice/original condition and the overlay covered the entire top. If I plan to repaint the piece, I just use a heavy duty stripper, like Stryp Eez, which will strip the adhesive and paint. I then wash the metal to remove any stripper residue, dry it, then use a sander to get the metal clean and shiny. Primer, paint, etc..
 
This for the win! Took it right off. Thanks for all the tips guys! Not sure why i didn't think of it before.

Now I've stripped the paint off the hinges though so I'll need to repaint the thing black before putting the CPO on. Is this likely to gum up the hinges? Is there a trick to painting these style hinges or is it ok to just shoot them from a rattle can?

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For metal panels when you DGAF, this is the best method I've found so far. I sprayed liberal amounts of Goof Off beforehand. The only frustration I encountered was going through drill batteries like a sumbitch. Do it out in the grass.
 
For metal panels when you DGAF, this is the best method I've found so far. I sprayed liberal amounts of Goof Off beforehand. The only frustration I encountered was going through drill batteries like a sumbitch. Do it out in the grass.

you realize u necro'd a thread from 5+ years ago, right?

i guess since we're here, what chemical short of acid will INSTANTLY remove the adhesive, not really caring about the laws or safety?

(i'm just curious! science!)
 
you realize u necro'd a thread from 5+ years ago, right?

i guess since we're here, what chemical short of acid will INSTANTLY remove the adhesive, not really caring about the laws or safety?

(i'm just curious! science!)

Yes. So? I was searching for a solution and found this thread. People complain if you don't search, and complain if you do :rolleyes:

And as a matter of fact, before I tried this method, I was also going to ask about the nastiest, most toxic shit there is since a lot can change in 4 years (probably for the worst because nanny State). I want to risk losing my hands if it means an easier time getting adhesive off. I mean, the drill still takes some work :D
 
Yes. So? I was searching for a solution and found this thread. People complain if you don't search, and complain if you do :rolleyes:

And as a matter of fact, before I tried this method, I was also going to ask about the nastiest, most toxic shit there is since a lot can change in 4 years (probably for the worst because nanny State). I want to risk losing my hands if it means an easier time getting adhesive off. I mean, the drill still takes some work :D

haha heck yeah! so we both want to know! i bet it's some kinda acid-based stuff that melts through wood floors on contact!

and i do the same. i take the time out to search a topic thats relevant to me and post on it. no clue why people get angry over a thread thats 5-10 years old! why waste the forum with a new thread if one already exists thats exactly the same subject!
 
The method I use is easier than the drill. Stand the control panel up in a plastic bin or something you can clean later. Pour Citristrip on the panel: http://www.citristrip.com/

Spread it with a cheap brush. Leave it as thick as you can. Then, and this is the critical part, cover the entire panel in saran wrap. It doesn't have to be tight fitting just mash it into the Citristrip so there is no air getting in.

The saran wrap keeps the Citristrip from drying and that means it keeps working. Come back an hour later, pull of the plastic and the adhesive/paint goo will slide right off the panel (I use a cheap putty knife). Just slide all the mess into the bin. The paint that was under the adhesive will mostly be gone too. You can clean the panel with a little gasoline or alcohol.

It takes about 5 minutes to apply this and there is no toxic fumes or smell to worry about, plus the hardened goo isn't being distributed around your work area by the drill. You can clean the resultant mess out of the bin by using paper towels before it dries.
 
+1 on citristrip. Nastiest chemical that will do the job is MEK if you can find it.
 
http://www.labelmaster.com/shop/adh...acards-ra222?gclid=CMrt0Mnhx8sCFQYIaQodWYUKPQ

They sell this at most big box home improvement stores. Works on both wood or metal panels. Non toxic and you don't need gloves or mask.
Spray and let it sit for 10-15 min. Turns glue to jelly. On metal I use a regular window scraping razor and on wood I use plastic razor blades. Wood ones take far more effort as the glue is usually into tho pores of wood. Metal ones are breeze.
 
Goo Gone or Goof Off. They both need time to activate and you will still need a razor scraper. cooler temps help keep the solvent from evaporating too fast.
 
Goo Gone or Goof Off. They both need time to activate and you will still need a razor scraper. cooler temps help keep the solvent from evaporating too fast.

Goo-Gone actually works wonders on all of the sticky adhesive I've had to take off of CP's.
Make sure it's Goo-Gone and not Goof-Off. :)


Quite literally the third post in this thread.
 
I have used so many glue strippers, 3m adhesive remover works wonders. but believe it or not. a spray can of brake cleaner works wonders too. just keep the area wet with it that your scrapping.
 
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