Any hope for cracked neckboards?

MrBungle

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Monitor it came from is displaying just a red screen. swapped with a working neckboard and it's fine. so, I figured i'd see if this is repairable so i'd have a backup monitor. yes? no?

143htac.jpg
 
plenty of hope

all you need to do is
first glue the pcb togater

scuff up the pcb on each side of the crack (where the traceses are)

then using old cap legs solder a jumper to each side of the crack where each trace is broken

you can also get away with just using solder to jumper the cracks but old cap legs give you a little more stability
 
wire will work but its asking for broblems later down the road

the problem with using wire is finding wire rated high enough to handle the hv of the neckboard will leave you with pretty thick wire
then its a pia to jumper some of the smaller broken traceses



in the end your better off just building a solder bridge instead of the wire if you dont have any old cap legs lying around (i have a little box i put all my cap leg cuttings in from monitor and pcb repairs just for repairs to cracked pcb's
 
the problem with using wire is finding wire rated high enough to handle the hv of the neckboard will leave you with pretty thick wire

Huh? There's no HV on the neckboard. OK, well, focus voltage is about 1000v, but the rest of the voltages are much lower. And, you don't need thick wire for HV. Thick insulation, yes. But not thick wire. And you're not using insulation here. What do you think cap legs are? Wire.

You can just strip the insulation off of any suitable scrap of wire and use it as a bridge. Personally, I usually use straightened paper clips or cap legs.

-Ian
 
I fixed this so yours should be no problem.
 

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didn't Bob Roberts fix old old neckboards to G07s or something with paperclips?? I found that baffling.

I have a semi crack on a K7000 neckboard, pain in the ass, cause I can't straighten it out. I had to use some huge solder blobs especially where it cracked along the neck socket. sucks. but it's doable, obviously.

I pitch my old cap legs, I actually used wire from a big bulk of diodes I had to fix my blown K7000, so those work too.

does the amount of current matter? like a single cap wire doesn't seem like it's the best option for carrying a lot of current, anyone ever twisted a couple of wires and layered them in solder to fix broken traces before? (my mad scientist idea)
 
does the amount of current matter? like a single cap wire doesn't seem like it's the best option for carrying a lot of current, anyone ever twisted a couple of wires and layered them in solder to fix broken traces before? (my mad scientist idea)

There's very little current draw through a neckboard. Note that the wires that lead to the neckboard aren't very thick, nor are the pins on the tube.

Any scrap of wire works fine - just scrape off the soldermask, and bridge it up. I personally like to use paper clips because they're stronger and seem to hold things together well, but any wire works. You can even use normal stranded wire like from wiring harnesses - just strip a length of it, tin it, and use that to bridge the cracks. Single sided boards with cracks are actually very easy to fix in this manner - I've had to do it many times to salvage TV's, monitor chassis and similar boards that had been damaged. It's not hard, and it's not rocket science. Just kind of tedious. You don't even always have to glue the board together. Using thick/stiff bridge wires and good strong solder joints is usually good enough, especially on something as small as a neckboard.

-Ian
 
I've used the wire on motorcycle gauges. It all works out. Sometimes you can fix the solder at the crack sometimes it breaks again. At least with the wire, if for some reason it flexes, you are still good to go. Different strokes for different pokes.
 
well damn....got them all connected and it's still red. guess i'll just hang on to the chassis and tube.
 
post of pic of your repairs.
If you have a multimeter, check for resistance between the spots you didn't use wire and see if any have open resistance.
 
It's possible your all red problem has nothing to do with the crack....
 
I think I pretty much confirmed that now lol. continuity/resistance is fine so I guess it's on to something else. Whal else could cause this?
 
Shorted Red Drive Transistor would be the first thing to check. Swap it with the green one, then see if it's still red or switches to green....
 
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