Another Tube Swap question. K4900 using A48AAB13X02

[massatari]

Getting brave here. I have a K4900 with really bad burn in. I came across a donor C23 RCA A48AAB13X02, took it apart and found a bonded yoke. I grabbed readings from it and then decided to remove it. Maybe 5 minutes with a heat gun. I'm going to assume this is going to be ok to move forward with the swap. Any tips or input would be appreciated before I finish this job, or is this just business as usual at this point?

 

[rod90]

Those bonded yokes suck. Just business at usual.

 

[Alup]

Getting brave here. I have a K4900 with really bad burn in. I came across a donor C23 RCA A48AAB13X02, took it apart and found a bonded yoke. I grabbed readings from it and then decided to remove it. Maybe 5 minutes with a heat gun. I'm going to assume this is going to be ok to move forward with the swap. Any tips or input would be appreciated before I finish this job, or is this just business as usual at this point?

You got that off there pretty easy. I normally have to take tin snips to the yoke and cut the sucker off, then I use Zippo fluid to clean the glue off the neck. But yeah, once its off its business as usual.

 

[massatari]

You got that off there pretty easy. I normally have to take tin snips to the yoke and cut the sucker off, then I use Zippo fluid to clean the glue off the neck. But yeah, once its off its business as usual.

I feel like I got insanely lucky but I was also very careful and scared sh!less that I'd end up in a big mess

 

[massatari]

This is as far as I've got. I swapped tubes but I'm not out of the woods yet. Looks like a nasty purity effect in the bottom and have some convergence to work on. This will be a forever-tweak I think. Needs a bad degausse. This monitor never had degausse issues at all. IDK I'll take another swing at it tomorrow but I have a new tube. I'll update the good tube swap thread when this is done.

 

[security0001]

You got that off there pretty easy. I normally have to take tin snips to the yoke and cut the sucker off, then I use Zippo fluid to clean the glue off the neck. But yeah, once its off its business as usual.

heat gun will help remove them also.

 

[Onyx Jaguar]

This is as far as I've got. I swapped tubes but I'm not out of the woods yet. Looks like a nasty purity effect in the bottom and have some convergence to work on. This will be a forever-tweak I think. Needs a bad degausse. This monitor never had degausse issues at all. IDK I'll take another swing at it tomorrow but I have a new tube. I'll update the good tube swap thread when this is done.

I'm starting to run into more and more of these purity issues with my monitors lately. Anyone else seeing a wave of this?

 

[Alup]

I'm starting to run into more and more of these purity issues with my monitors lately. Anyone else seeing a wave of this?

I have had a few tubes that were super jacked on the purity. If I have to spend more then an hour or so on the rings one of 3 things happen.
1. I get mad and break the damn tube and grab another one off my shelf. (unlikely, but has happened before).
2. I take the tube out and place it to the side and grab another one.
3. I swap the rings.. or just leave them off and just use convergence strips/magnets. (Most Likely)

As for using a Heatgun on the coil... This has never worked for me. I have just ran 120v directly into the coil before and this got the sucker off but I do not condone or recommend anyone for any reason at all do this (Very Dangerous). I have also boiled it off (on a 13" tube) But my #1 go to to get these off is just patients and a pair of tin snips. Does it destroy the coil? YES, but who cares. these are way more useless then they are useful. After I cut them I normally scrap the ferrite as iron and the copper as copper. The plastic/glue crap goes in my recycle bin.

 

[massatari]

For the heatgun I used an old flathead screwdriver(don't use a good one) to work some of the hot glue at the base of the neck. Really just a way to get more separation and test the heat. I got that nice and loose and just worked the yoke up and off carefully. I do feel fortunate that I got an easy one for my first time. The degaussing issue: I *THINK* I am realizing what happened there. My work room is not well lit, so I have a flourescent light bar mounted over my area very low so that I can see the surface better. I am wondering if working on this tube near that bar had an effect. The really magnetized spot would be right where the monitor was touching the light fixture. I turned up the monitor this morning and it is dissipating, and I will work on it a little bit. I also have to get the guns lined up so. Still some tweaking, small improvements, but I think this will be a success.

 

[massatari]

I'm getting better results but not done with it. I just seem to lose all time behind here. Passable, but still tweaking.

 

[Alup]

I'm getting better results but not done with it. I just seem to lose all time behind here. Passable, but still tweaking.

looks great! well done!

 

[massatari]

looks great! well done!

Thanks I'm almost there. I can feel it. I just need a good degausse at this point. Convergence and purity look good. but I screwed with it enough to throw it off and my only degaussing tool is an electric drill. I will say that letting it sit overnight improved it a little bit. So I'm going to give it time and get a real deguassing coil and see if I can bring it over the finish line. I have to say this lines up great, i just need the color corrected now and we are good. So if anyone has any tips I'm listening for sure.

 

[massatari]

Spent a lot of time on this one but the results are good. really bright, converged well and spent a ton of time on purity to get out those gausse spots and fit the sweet spot. Worth the effort to have a burn free monitor