Another Megatouch monitor problem...

the 'ticking' you hear is not likely the flyback, but is due to the chassis trying to come on, but the over voltage circuit is sensing a problem and shutting down the chassis. The power supply is likely running over voltage and you will need to repair it to correct the problem.
 
Power supply checks out, and I'm getting 115 at the connector. I dont think its a flyback issue either, just looks like a little dirt underneath. I did notice a shutdown pot near the flyback with glue on it. I'm wondering if this needs adjustment. Keep in mind I just had the tube rejuvinated last month and it worked great until now.

I'm ready to pull the chassis and poke at it with a multimeter. Anything in particular I should check?
 
Actually, on a K7203, the first thing I'd do (after recapping it and testing the fuses, HOT, VR, etc) would be to isolate the PS section of the monitor with a light bulb to narrow down whether the issue is in the PS or the deflection...
 
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I can't find a free manual, wheres the horizontal transistor at?

Not sure which is the hot and which is the VR, but I did a 20k Ohm test on R007 (reading 10.18) & R625 (reading 0.01). Maybe one of these is the culprit?

Caps look original.
 
Q503 has three legs. Put the black lead on the middle and the red lead on each of the outers. You should get between .400 and .700.

BD002 should have 4 legs, right? Check the schematic and measure them like you're testing diodes...
 
Yep, still a zero reading in the Hot, so I'm guessing it's bad? Is this usually an indication that the flyback is going bad also? BD001 does have 4 legs and gets readings between 535 and 600 with a diode test.
 
Put in a fresh cap kit and a new hot. Still having the same problem. I tested the hot before installation and got the proper readings, and then back to a zero reading on it after I put it in and before I even put the chassis back in the game. I'm stumped. Any other ideas?
 
Power supply checks out, and I'm getting 115 at the connector. I dont think its a flyback issue either, just looks like a little dirt underneath. I did notice a shutdown pot near the flyback with glue on it. I'm wondering if this needs adjustment. Keep in mind I just had the tube rejuvinated last month and it worked great until now.

I'm ready to pull the chassis and poke at it with a multimeter. Anything in particular I should check?

when i said power supply, I don't mean the games power supply, it would be the monitors power supply. You need to isolate the problem to either a Power issue or a Horizontal issue. Unless you hooked up a load to test the B+ power, you won't know what area to try to repair. Do you know how to test a transistor?
 
when i said power supply, I don't mean the games power supply, it would be the monitors power supply. You need to isolate the problem to either a Power issue or a Horizontal issue. Unless you hooked up a load to test the B+ power, you won't know what area to try to repair. Do you know how to test a transistor?

When I test the hot its back at zero, thats while its attached though. I havent gone as far as to remove it and see if its really shorted again, I think my problem is elsewhere in the circuit. Just spent 2 hours on the phone with a fellow member on this and I'm trying to learn how to read a schematic, but more or less just getting frustrated and about to send it off for him to repair.

I also think my cheap ass multimeter is going out. Tried reading a bunch or resistors on another chassis and not one of them is reading properly. And yes, I know how to decode the color bands, although I still dont get why the manufacturer cant just stamp the numbers on 'em instead. Oh well, /rant.
 
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