Another EDOT restore thread

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25 hours of straight driving through two snow storms and Colts game traffic. I came home with this piece of arcade history. My dad (the guy in the photo) came along to help get the hard work involved in moving one of these things done, and man did he ever help on this one. Big thanks to T.J.(chubnostics) for giving me the chance to get back into the arcade world with the sale of this one.

I will get some more photos up here as soon as I get caught up on sleep from this epic adventure.

I have a few things I need to find for it and maybe see if I can talk someone into doing some side art for these things. I will get that list up here later after I get a better going over done on it. Of course I want to get it powered up and operating properly first and foremost.
 

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Looks awesome. Just don't forget to play it when your standing there taking in all its glory. ;)
 
Thanks guys! I was overly excited to pick this thing up. It was well worth the long travel and I plan on getting lots of photos up over time. The cab is in nice shape with no water damage anywhere. The back lower glass is flawless and the upper rear glass shows a little minor peeling in one spot and of course the grid lines are worn.

I also plan on playing the crap out of this thing. All those .50 cent contributions I saved as a kid paid off in the long run. I can't imagine putting all the work into it and not having a little fun. You wouldn't preserve your gf so the next guy could have his way right? It will be well taken care of though.

I have to figure out the electrical gremlin hiding inside first. I'm betting its the power supply from what I was told and have read so far. I also need to find the disc for the floor, a floor light cover, something for the inside mirror looking pieces, a new cpo, new trigger cover, t moldings, side art (hopefully). The thing is really not that bad at all, I'm just super picky about things and this has to be perfect.

A few photos to entertain for now until I can rearrange the garage. I underestimated its actual size.
 

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A few more photos.
 

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Rich at thisoldgame.com will be able to supply you with the CPO and get on his preorder list for the black light cover. I think the floor covering is also on his To-Do list. Artwork will be hard to come by as he only does the upright version...but who knows what the future might hold. He also sells the joystick insert, and go to groovygamegear.com to pick up the blue joystick shell. Looks like you've got a fantastic cab to restore...especially since you don't have any real water damage.
 
I did see his cpo, but it's a little different from the EDOT then the UDOT. I am going to jump on the black light cover deal and hopefully he comes through on the disc. I may try and see if he would be interested in doing an EDOT run if enough are presold. It's worth a shot...
 
I ordered the handle, light cover, trigger cover tonight...I decided to fire it up and see what was going on. Here a few pictures. As far as game play goes just a purple screen going on and a slight humm.

After seeing the monitor with Discs of Tron burnt into the screen, I think I will send that out as well while I am at it.
 

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I'm the last guy to give you advice on electronics, because I know jack squat. It might be more of a board issue and not a monitor issue because you've obviously got power going to the monitor. Do you hear any sound? Does it play blind? If you've got neither, then it might be your board or power supply to the board. Do a search to see if you can find any other similar posts, and if not, start a new post in one of the technical sections to see if you get more responses and thoughts.
 
Edot

I talked to Chubs about repairing this game close to a year ago. From his description. I would guess the 90412 Medium power supply has failed. Check your voltages coming out of that for starters.
 
I know there are a lot of "haters" out there of the switching power supplies, but I replaced mine with one of arcadeshop.com's with one of their heavier duty ones and their adapter's and have had no hum or any issues whatsoever. It's a fast way to make sure you have zero power supply issues whatsoever, and then you can start troubleshooting other things.
 
Fast

I know there are a lot of "haters" out there of the switching power supplies, but I replaced mine with one of arcadeshop.com's with one of their heavier duty ones and their adapter's and have had no hum or any issues whatsoever. It's a fast way to make sure you have zero power supply issues whatsoever, and then you can start troubleshooting other things.

I agree it is the fastest way. But, the origional power supplies last 30 years in most cases. After a rebuild they will last 30 more. Show me a switcher that will do that. Also, I am a stickler for origionality. So I am biased.
 
I am definitely for originality whenever possible.

I did a little voltage checking and it does seem the boards aren't getting a full 12 and 5 volts. As chubs said before its just under both by about a half a volt. I am going to check some wiring for any resistance or poor connections. I don't know how exact they have to be when it comes to these. I have worked on many 12v automotive systems in my time and they are always exact so I would assume the same situation being a similiar circuit printed board.

I'm going to do a little research on here and see if someone has some old posts somewhere with any reference in it. Any idea who does rebuilds on these? Or where I might be able to find the parts required to do the rebuild if needed?

Thanks again guys.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=120143&highlight=DOT+POWER+SUPPLY

I found this which looks really good so I'm going to give that a run through tonight.
 

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If you don't have too much corrosion on the p/s board, Bob R sells a nice kit to rebuild it. Not MCR, but I used his kit on a Gorf and similar p/s boards and I would highly recommend that over a switcher. Plan on repinning/replacing any power related connector or header pins on the p/s board while you're at it.
 
PS

The kit for that one from Bob is pretty complete. I have never had one not work correctly after a rebuild with Bob's kit. The 5v is veeerrry important on these. It has to be 4.98-5.12 at the chip legs for the game to work correctly. The 5v at the PS will usually be a little higher than that due to voltage loss through the wiring, connectors, etc. If you need someone to rebuild yours, PM me.
 
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