Another Donkey Kong restoration

BeagleBoy

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As I've mentioned elsewhere, I've got a VS Super Mario that I'm turning back into a Donkey Kong.

47176521.jpg
 
So, first question:

I've got a "new" bezel, to replace the installed-backwards DK Jr bezel that's currently in the machine. I'd like to remove the old bezel from the bottom metal trim, so I can put the trim on the replacement.

How do I get the trim off?

trim.jpg


-Jim
 
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Some light heat might help loosen it, I pulled on mine for a while and ended up smacking myself in the face with it when it suddenly popped off....:eek:
 
I've put on fresh t-molding, and installed a DK bezel.

Starting to look like a Donkey Kong again:
img20101125213748small.jpg
 
I've got a used control panel coming from QuarterArcade, a new marquee from Mike's, and a harness coming from Dokert.

Now I just need to find or fab a tray for mounting my PCBs.

-Jim
 
Control panel and marquee have arrived.

The control panel isn't in too bad of shape, but it's got its share of cigarette burns. The instruction card is faded and wrinkled (as usual).

img20101204161630.jpg



I removed the CPO; it definitely needed a cleaning, but not too bad.

img20101204162325.jpg



After some scrubbing, I installed a brand new CPO from QuarterArcade. I left the white backing in place, because I haven't had a chance to get a new instruction card yet. I might just print one out for the time being.

img20101204172243.jpg



And now, the moment I've been waiting for: I have a Donkey Kong!

img20101204173652.jpg


So now I'm just waiting for Dokert's latest batch of wiring harnesses to ship on Monday. I'm like a kid waiting for his birthday.

Oh, and as people who look way to closely at the picture might have noticed, I have yet to rotate the monitor. I'll be doing that as soon as the harness arrives.

-Jim
 
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Control panel and marquee have arrived.

The control panel isn't in too bad of shape, but it's got its share of cigarette burns. The instruction card is faded and wrinkled (as usual).

img20101204161630.jpg



I removed the CPO; it definitely needed a cleaning, but not too bad.

img20101204162325.jpg



After some scrubbing, I installed a brand new CPO from QuarterArcade. I left the white backing in place, because I haven't had a chance to get a new instruction card yet. I might just print one out for the time being.

img20101204172243.jpg



And now, the moment I've been waiting for: I have a Donkey Kong!

img20101204173652.jpg


So now I'm just waiting for Dokert's latest batch of wiring harnesses to ship on Monday. I'm like a kid waiting for his birthday.

Oh, and as people who look way to closely at the picture might have noticed, I have yet to rotate the monitor. I'll be doing that as soon as the harness arrives.

-Jim

Get your instruction card from Todd Tuckey at TNT amusements. He has the most accurate one for the TKG4-UP Donkey Kongs.
 
Hi! I have both DK and DKJr paper instruction cards for $3 each and I have a few of the color instruction stickers that go above the control panel for DKJr left for $8 each. Priority only shipping now...with cardboard is $5. paypal is [email protected] Todd
 
My new harness showed up in the mail today, so this evening I did a brain transplant on my cabinet. I removed the Unisystem cage and harness, put my DK board in, rotated the monitor, and... played my first game of Donkey Kong in its dedicated cabinet! :)

The only thing left for me to find is the sheet-metal PCB holder/tray (or whatever it's called). Right now, the boards are just sitting loose in there.

Okay, I've also got to do some work on the joystick. Very unresponsive right now.

And, at some point I need to actually repair the damage to the cabinet itself, like I was originally going to do before life got in the way. But with its new marquee, cpo, t-molding and bezel, the sucker looks good enough for me to live with it as is for the winter.

-Jim
 
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The only thing left for me to find is the sheet-metal PCB holder/tray (or whatever it's called). Right now, the boards are just sitting loose in there.

Pretty sure the pcb's are held in by two "L" brackets at the top that are attached to the inside wall of the cab, the "shelf" they sit on had a wood slot that they slid into on the bottom side, just looking at the VS kit manual (Just picked up a VS SMB) the instructions have directions to pry up the wood slot to allow room for the metal cage the VS pcb's reside in.
The "L" brackets at the top have thumbscrew wingnuts that screw down through the two eyelets on the pcb frame to hold the pcb's in position.
 
What I'm missing is the metal sheet that goes between the circuit boards (that the boards mount to via plastic standoffs).
 
What I'm missing is the metal sheet that goes between the circuit boards (that the boards mount to via plastic standoffs).

Try posting in the WTB section for the mounting plate.
I found one there about a year ago.
Another option is to buy a non-working board set just for the plate.
 
Nintendo actually calls it a P.C Board Mounting Bracket but I believe most here call it the mounting plate.
 
Just installed the high-score save / D2K board. Love it! I'm nowhere near good enough for D2K yet, but games sure are more meaningful when you can save your score. (And for just an extra $34, it's well worth getting D2K.)

Also, I've got a mounting plate coming from ballytablewiz.

Finally, I spent a bit of time fiddling with the color drive and bias pots. My monitor went from blah to beautiful.

So everything's working great now, with the exception of the graphics problem that I've described here. It doesn't interfere with gameplay, but I'd like to fix it. So if anyone has any suggestions, please post away.

-Jim
 
Silicone?!

My DK joystick needs some help, so I decided to swap it with one from the VS panel that came with the cabinet (the DK was replaced with that model at some point anyway).

And I discover that some idiot used Silicone to lock down the nuts on the VS joysticks. A blob of silicone, right over nut and threads (every single one). And oh boy has it adhered.

$&@!@ #$@#!*& !@*#&!

-Jim
 
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