Andys80s EDOT Adventure
- Thread starter andys80s
- Start date
I just found this shot on the net...it helps but I would like a few more.
It looks to me like the back of the door should be white? Can someone tell me....mine has been painted black.
Back door should be BLACK on the outside. For more pictures of artwork and restoration efforts on an EDOT you might check my site, http://www.madocowain.com/Arcade/arcade.html .. there's an EDOT page link at the bottom.
M.O.
trying to use the blaster this morning I had forgot that it needed new sand so on to another project...
This board had only one pair of working lights that stayed on all the time. There are several places on the net (Thanks Tony! http://girasoli.org/arcade/?p=202 ) that tell you what to do with it. Im going to work on mine now and will let you know how it goes.
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I took some 16 gauge wire and striped the sheathing off and used it to insulate the center leg (because it needs to be wrapped around)
did this x5 and soldered them in (2 of the 5 that were there had cold joints)
finished!
did this x5 and soldered them in (2 of the 5 that were there had cold joints)
finished!
UPDATE!
When I plugged it in and turned it on all the lights worked....but
from the speakers came the loudest hum I have ever heard!!!
I had to know if they were going to flash so I coined it up and killed myself quick...no flash ;( and no sound that I could hear over the hum if there was any at all.
Turned it right off and went and unplugged the board...the resistor burned the s%!& out of me!
HELP!
When I plugged it in and turned it on all the lights worked....but
from the speakers came the loudest hum I have ever heard!!!
I had to know if they were going to flash so I coined it up and killed myself quick...no flash ;( and no sound that I could hear over the hum if there was any at all.
Turned it right off and went and unplugged the board...the resistor burned the s%!& out of me!
HELP!
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http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=145913
Some of this info might be useful. I am running into the same problem.
Some of this info might be useful. I am running into the same problem.
sugarbear
Well-known member
Nice Job Andy!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Man,
Nice project cant wait too see all finished.
Dave
Hey Man,
Nice project cant wait too see all finished.
Dave
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This thread has inspired me to start keeping an eye out more for an EDOT. 
Back to the light sequencer.
So I pulled the socketed chip at U2 and put the board back in the game...AGAIN LIGHTS! They all stay on all the time but the best part is that the sound is back and NO DEAFENING HUMM! So im guessing that I need to replace this chip. ANYONE?
So I pulled the socketed chip at U2 and put the board back in the game...AGAIN LIGHTS! They all stay on all the time but the best part is that the sound is back and NO DEAFENING HUMM! So im guessing that I need to replace this chip. ANYONE?
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I'd try cleaning the chip legs first and re seating it in the socket. Also check the socket for loose or bad solder joints.
Here are todays pics of the disassembly process...
http://s1088.photobucket.com/albums/i327/andysedot/10-02-10/
After getting most of it apart I am happy to report that the cab can be saved! Its really not too bad except for the bottom. With the bottom almost gone around the edges all the places where the wood comes together around the cab have split their glue and the staples have all loosened. All the 90 degree inside reinforcements will have to be replaced, reglued, and screwed in after replacing the bottom.
BTW...I know I take alot of pictures. I have taken alot to help me when the time comes to put it back together. Plus I just take alot when I restore anything!
oh yeah I found a Ballys Aladdins Castle token under the power supply and one of the coin mechs hidden in the bottom!
(yes there are pictures) haha
http://s1088.photobucket.com/albums/i327/andysedot/10-02-10/
After getting most of it apart I am happy to report that the cab can be saved! Its really not too bad except for the bottom. With the bottom almost gone around the edges all the places where the wood comes together around the cab have split their glue and the staples have all loosened. All the 90 degree inside reinforcements will have to be replaced, reglued, and screwed in after replacing the bottom.
BTW...I know I take alot of pictures. I have taken alot to help me when the time comes to put it back together. Plus I just take alot when I restore anything!
oh yeah I found a Ballys Aladdins Castle token under the power supply and one of the coin mechs hidden in the bottom!
(yes there are pictures) haha
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AWESOME! I hope you are making careful measurements of ALL the parts so they can fed into a CAD program and then EVERYONE can build their own EDOT!!
Oh BTW I saw a guy in the Want ads section looking for Aladdins tokens. LOL
Oh BTW I saw a guy in the Want ads section looking for Aladdins tokens. LOL
Not sure how good a candidate mine is. Lots of swelling and parts falling off!
Here are some pics from today.
http://s1088.photobucket.com/albums/i327/andysedot/10-03-10/
can someone tell me if the coin door panel should fall off when you take out the 4 dry wall screws in it?
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Can't help you with the lights, but with the amount of Bondoing required to fix your back door, I would just grab some MDF at Home Depot and cut your own. Will take less time and look much better.
I would opt to cut new mdf wherever needed. Swelling doesn't really affect the dimensions other than width. If someone documented the dimensions..I have a friend that might be persuaded to cut the pieces. He's a master carpenter and does custom cabinetry work.
