hatrick
Well-known member
If it's the circuit breaker, they are like $4 from Digikey and about the easiest part to replace that you could imagine. My money is on a bad circuit breaker.
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Please post all monitor technical topics in the Technical - Videogames - Monitors section, not in the General Help section.
an OT repair question
- Thread starter vintagegamer
- Start date
Riptor
Well-known member
I dont have time to read through the thread right now but I would be happy to help you out on this if you still need it. Im heading to work now so I will try to read the thread later this evening.
OP
OP
Thx rip- latest update is breaker has continuity and there are no lifted traces on the underside of the board.
Riptor
Well-known member
You probably have a bridge rectifier in there somewhere to provide the dc power to the board. I would start there.
If you can find the BR, send me it and the pcb so I can check them out.
If you can find the BR, send me it and the pcb so I can check them out.
OP
OP
Many thanks- coinopdirect has sent me some things to check too so I will provide an update on it this weekend. I really appreciate everyone's suggestions with this, considering it's not an arcade game. It's been a huge help.
hatrick
Well-known member
I breifly looked at my Lincoln MIG welder last night and where I thought the circuit breaker was, it actually had a little button that said "Normally Open protection circuit" or something like that.
I'd have to check the schematics, but maybe that switch is supposed to be open, and yours is not?
I may be way off base here, but it's always good to check the easy stuff first.
I'd have to check the schematics, but maybe that switch is supposed to be open, and yours is not?
I may be way off base here, but it's always good to check the easy stuff first.
OP
OP
What model welder do you have? It shows mine (SP125) as having a breaker that will "extend out when tripped". I checked the back and it had continuity, which is why I'm being directed to check the rectifiers etc now.
BTW, does anyone else chuckle when they say "rectifier"? It reminds me of rectum or erection. I know, I'm warped.
hatrick
Well-known member
I think mine is a Pro-MIG 135 or something like that. Probably very similar to yours.
ThurworAlpha
New member
Hey,
Good work checking everything so far. I usually start at one end and go through each part in sequence... follow the wire/trace. The power rectifiers for the output should be checked too. Those are usually separate diodes in like a D0-4 or D0-5 stud mount package. (figured you would like those words together stud-mount-rectifier) These are generally 'screwed' into a metal plate. I believe I saw these listed in the manual, a similar drawing to the one inside the lid.
do you get any power when you turn it on? (ie does the fan run? do you get a light or anything that tells you it is powered on?)
I just noticed in the picture that there is a thermostat switch on the heatsink. This switch should be normally closed. It is the little round black thing attached to the outside of the heatsink, with two wires going to it. This switch is wired in series with the gun trigger.
Kenneth
Good work checking everything so far. I usually start at one end and go through each part in sequence... follow the wire/trace. The power rectifiers for the output should be checked too. Those are usually separate diodes in like a D0-4 or D0-5 stud mount package. (figured you would like those words together stud-mount-rectifier) These are generally 'screwed' into a metal plate. I believe I saw these listed in the manual, a similar drawing to the one inside the lid.
do you get any power when you turn it on? (ie does the fan run? do you get a light or anything that tells you it is powered on?)
I just noticed in the picture that there is a thermostat switch on the heatsink. This switch should be normally closed. It is the little round black thing attached to the outside of the heatsink, with two wires going to it. This switch is wired in series with the gun trigger.
Kenneth
Last edited:
OP
OP
I haven't gotten any further in doing checking, sorry for the delay folks. I promise to provide an update soon.
Can anyone circle on the pics I provided what parts I should be checking next? I have no idea which part is the rectifier in all of this mess. I looked at pics on the web of what a rectifier SHOULD look like, but have not yet located the one in the welder.
Thanks all for your continued input..
Can anyone circle on the pics I provided what parts I should be checking next? I have no idea which part is the rectifier in all of this mess. I looked at pics on the web of what a rectifier SHOULD look like, but have not yet located the one in the welder.
Thanks all for your continued input..
OP
OP
Yep the fan comes on, and when the unit is on, if you pull the trigger on the gun you hear a "click" but the drive roller does not turn and you don't hear it trying to push gas out.
Oryk Zinyo
Well-known member
Bridge rectifiers can look like any of these components:
I don't see anything that jumps out at me, but the pic is not the greatest.
I don't see anything that jumps out at me, but the pic is not the greatest.
Oryk Zinyo
Well-known member
Follow the traces from positions 531 and 31A on the board. The first component they come to should be the bridge.
OP
OP
Thanks. Sorry to be so retarded about not knowing this stuff. I really am trying though!!
Oryk Zinyo
Well-known member
Thanks. Sorry to be so retarded about not knowing this stuff. I really am trying though!!
Mehh, everyone has to start somewhere.
BTW, I am assuming that those positions are the AC in for the circuit board. Also, it is possible that a bridge was "built" out of diodes on the board instead of using a pre-existing part. So the first part you come to may be a diode instead of something in the above pic.
OP
OP
Here's the latest update: I'm just posting the response I sent to coinop who is also helping with the battle here:
"Here's what I found: 124VAC is making its way to the circuit board via 31A and 531. 31A stretches back to the circuit breaker so even though something is damaged on the board the breaker never tripped. Seems odd to me but I'm no expert.
When unplugging the J2 connector and checking wires 213 and 211, everything was just as you said: open circuit when trigger is untouched, closes when trigger is pulled."
It is so great to be a part of troubleshooting this. Even if I don't get it fixed, I'm learning tons here. That's gotta be worth something at my age!
"Here's what I found: 124VAC is making its way to the circuit board via 31A and 531. 31A stretches back to the circuit breaker so even though something is damaged on the board the breaker never tripped. Seems odd to me but I'm no expert.
When unplugging the J2 connector and checking wires 213 and 211, everything was just as you said: open circuit when trigger is untouched, closes when trigger is pulled."
It is so great to be a part of troubleshooting this. Even if I don't get it fixed, I'm learning tons here. That's gotta be worth something at my age!
bjk7382
New member
I would try to find out what "clicks" when the trigger is pulled. This may lead to a bad relay responsible for starting the wire/gas/hi voltage. Can you strike an arc with the wire even when it isn't moving with the trigger pulled?
OP
OP
Nope, no arc and no gas. You hear the click of the drive roller but it doesn't move. It's not bound up or anything like that.
OP
OP
31A goes to the circuit breaker (which never tripped). I believe 531 is a ground wire. It goes down to the power switch and then off to somewhere I can't see. Just wanted top provide that info in case anyone needed it.
OP
OP
OK, another update..
If you look at the most recent pic, the closest trace to 531 and 31A are just above where the wire connectors are. To the left of 531 are 2 diodes (circled), to the right of 31A is one diode (also circled).
I put the multimeter on both and it came up "1" for all 3 diodes, never changed once. I don't know if that means all 3 are fried, or if the ecto goop on the 3 of them is giving me an inaccurate reading..
If you look at the most recent pic, the closest trace to 531 and 31A are just above where the wire connectors are. To the left of 531 are 2 diodes (circled), to the right of 31A is one diode (also circled).
I put the multimeter on both and it came up "1" for all 3 diodes, never changed once. I don't know if that means all 3 are fried, or if the ecto goop on the 3 of them is giving me an inaccurate reading..
