This started as a simple cap kit, and ended up being a very long and sometimes frustrating road to a once again working chassis.
I started with a Popeye that had the classic Sanyo curl, along with generally dull colors.

I had done cap kits, but never on a Sanyo before. I did the cap kit, double-checked my work, and reinstalled. Now I had vertical collapse. Here is where I may be at fault. I may not have re-attached the ground wire properly on the chassis before firing it up (I'll never admit it one way or another, lol). Also, of note, the h hold pot crackles and shuts down the monitor when rotated.
I pulled the chassis and started rechecking my work.
- I found a bad solder joint on a cap, and found that the positive leg of C302 was shorted to the negative leg of C453. Fixed both, no change.
At this point, I used the schematic to start working ny way through everything on the vertical deflection circuit.
- pulled and tested TR402 and TR403. Both tested fine. On Buffet's advice, checked the traces in and around C408. The traces were good. Reinstalled, no change.
- started checking resistors, find that R472, R473, and R478 tested outside of their tolerances, so all were replaced. Reinstalled the chassis, and still had collapse, but the line was much thicker, so progress at last!
- New h hold pot arrived from Buffett. Pulled the old one, it tested okay, threw the new one in just in case. Checked resistors R477 and R239. Both looked fried, and tested outside of their tolerances. R477 was particularly off. It was a 1W 3.3 ohm metal film, and tested at 1.4 ohms. I also looked at TR208, to make sure it hadn't been shorted during all of this. It tested fine. Replaced both resistors, reinstalled the chassis, fired it up, and bam! We are back in business. A few color adjustments later, and...
I should also note that the h hold pot no longer crackles. I tend to believe that current was bleeding through the fried resistors to the pot before, causing the issue, rather than the pot itself being bad.
So, anyone with vertical collapse on one of these Sanyos, these are some things to check. Also, the Nintendo Sanyo monitor manual has an excellent chart to help troubleshoot vertical collapse.
I want to thank Buffett for his help on this. He is an asset to us, and always willing to provide help and guidance, no matter what oddball hour or stupid question you might have!
I started with a Popeye that had the classic Sanyo curl, along with generally dull colors.

I had done cap kits, but never on a Sanyo before. I did the cap kit, double-checked my work, and reinstalled. Now I had vertical collapse. Here is where I may be at fault. I may not have re-attached the ground wire properly on the chassis before firing it up (I'll never admit it one way or another, lol). Also, of note, the h hold pot crackles and shuts down the monitor when rotated.
I pulled the chassis and started rechecking my work.
- I found a bad solder joint on a cap, and found that the positive leg of C302 was shorted to the negative leg of C453. Fixed both, no change.
At this point, I used the schematic to start working ny way through everything on the vertical deflection circuit.
- pulled and tested TR402 and TR403. Both tested fine. On Buffet's advice, checked the traces in and around C408. The traces were good. Reinstalled, no change.
- started checking resistors, find that R472, R473, and R478 tested outside of their tolerances, so all were replaced. Reinstalled the chassis, and still had collapse, but the line was much thicker, so progress at last!
- New h hold pot arrived from Buffett. Pulled the old one, it tested okay, threw the new one in just in case. Checked resistors R477 and R239. Both looked fried, and tested outside of their tolerances. R477 was particularly off. It was a 1W 3.3 ohm metal film, and tested at 1.4 ohms. I also looked at TR208, to make sure it hadn't been shorted during all of this. It tested fine. Replaced both resistors, reinstalled the chassis, fired it up, and bam! We are back in business. A few color adjustments later, and...
I should also note that the h hold pot no longer crackles. I tend to believe that current was bleeding through the fried resistors to the pot before, causing the issue, rather than the pot itself being bad.
So, anyone with vertical collapse on one of these Sanyos, these are some things to check. Also, the Nintendo Sanyo monitor manual has an excellent chart to help troubleshoot vertical collapse.
I want to thank Buffett for his help on this. He is an asset to us, and always willing to provide help and guidance, no matter what oddball hour or stupid question you might have!
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