Amplifone HV Printed board

dezbaz

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Amplifone HV Printed board (Expressions of Interest Now on)

Hi Guys

EXPRESSION OF INTEREST STARTED

I am about to remake the Amplifone HV Board's Printed copper board (Bare PCB - No Parts)

Revision A201012-02 will be made, modified so all add-on parts are incorporated (not included). New Revision is called A201012-02

Here's the info below


I need an idea of numbers please people

No pre-sale, just selling when they are in stock (Hopefully in 2 months time)

Details of what will be included
Each board will be
  • 1.6mm thick (Strong)
  • Black Labeling of parts, on parts side
  • 2 oz thick copper (thicker)
  • Green solder mask
  • Tinned finish
  • Bare board - NO Parts included
  • Full assembly guide - step by step
  • Revision A201012-02 Modified as in this thread
  • Links to any parts available

Please add your name so I can decide how many

Thank you
 
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Do you have the "magic part" MCI for new boards ?

There are 3 revisions of the original board, not sure if you mean that. The beige one's are the latest revision.
 
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Hi, sorry for the user name change (Hotmail problems)

I don't need the mystery can, as I am making only the bare PCB :)

The idea is to buy what's available and re-use all hard to get parts

Thanks for the reply :)

Dez
 
But what's the point in remaking the PCB? I've never heard of anyone complaining that their PCB went bad, so if any components are very limited (like the MCI), you'll have to pull from a perfectly good PCB to install on yours. You might as well just shotgun all the replaceable parts on the original PCB.

Or, if you're going through the trouble of making a new board, why not re-engineer it with modern components... you could probably make it cheaper, better, and smaller, without the need for stuff like the hard to find MCI and expensive BU406D. IIRC, someone made one a few years ago.

DogP
 
But what's the point in remaking the PCB? I've never heard of anyone complaining that their PCB went bad, so if any components are very limited (like the MCI), you'll have to pull from a perfectly good PCB to install on yours. You might as well just shotgun all the replaceable parts on the original PCB.

Or, if you're going through the trouble of making a new board, why not re-engineer it with modern components... you could probably make it cheaper, better, and smaller, without the need for stuff like the hard to find MCI and expensive BU406D. IIRC, someone made one a few years ago.

DogP

+1 on this. Why can't a modern version be developed, thans runs better and cooler....
 
a replacement was made , I have one.

But didn't you mention in a previous post that the repro version you have isn't as good as having an original? Or did you put an original in just to have the game be original?

The original HV board I have now in my Star Wars was the only one I ever found when I needed one. I had plently people with deflection boards, but one person with a HV board.
I talked and emailed alot of people, and found only one person with one to sell. They seem to be getting rarer by the minute.

RetroActive showed me his board where he has modded it with some modern upgrades so it runs cooler. And he agrees that it would be nice to have a modern board that runs cooler and more reliable.
 
I am going to this trouble because mine is burnt badly around the 2 main transistors.

I also tried for a year to get a HV board, so now I need it to last.

Like I say the effort is done with the tracing, and I will be making 2 for myself soon for my 2 machines

Thanks for the replies :)
 
I am going to this trouble because mine is burnt badly around the 2 main transistors.

If you're going to make boards, you might as well improve them -- add in space on the heat sink for TO-220 shunt resistors instead of using cement wire wraps... use 2oz or heavier copper on the board itself, etc...

I still like to add series resistors on the deflection board to move the heat around on the chssis rather than burning it all in the regs and resistors on the HV, but that's just me.
 
But didn't you mention in a previous post that the repro version you have isn't as good as having an original? Or did you put an original in just to have the game be original?

The original HV board I have now in my Star Wars was the only one I ever found when I needed one. I had plently people with deflection boards, but one person with a HV board.
I talked and emailed alot of people, and found only one person with one to sell. They seem to be getting rarer by the minute.

RetroActive showed me his board where he has modded it with some modern upgrades so it runs cooler. And he agrees that it would be nice to have a modern board that runs cooler and more reliable.

I had the original one with the matching SN on it for my game so i rebuilt it and put it back in. It had been sitting on the shelf forever. Now the modern one is my spare.
 
If you're going to make boards, you might as well improve them -- add in space on the heat sink for TO-220 shunt resistors instead of using cement wire wraps... use 2oz or heavier copper on the board itself, etc...

I still like to add series resistors on the deflection board to move the heat around on the chssis rather than burning it all in the regs and resistors on the HV, but that's just me.

OK, good idea, have you got a pic? (Only the HV is on the cards at this point)
 
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Here is my rather clumsy solution:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68094.msg1014797#msg1014797

(Scroll down a bit).

There is a much better solution using the TO-220 resistors though. I've seen someone posted it either here or on BYOAC forum but I can't find it.

OK, I now see what is needed, thank you

to-220-power-resistors-rmg50-1.jpg


What we need is a version of this with a little hole for attaching to the heatsink

Rather than rigging up a clip of some sort

Cheers

It's a good idea so I will follow it up
:)
 
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http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90550.0

It's burried somewhere in this post.

I used Level42's method, and I think that works just fine.


Here's the direct link:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90550.msg1032970#msg1032970

Here's a pic from that thread:
Amplifone-TO220PowerReistor1.jpg


@dezbaz, the one's you pictured aren't true TO-220 housings. TO-220 specs a mounting hole.
You can see the one's used in that thread, they do have a true TO-220 housing.

Here's one from my preferred supplier:
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3205012
 
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Thanks, these pics are great.

So, what do the resistors do? They go across VR1 and VR2 I read

Diagram here (Click to enlarge)
 
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