Aftermarket pinball boards vs Original boards.

it just doesn't have the same old feel and leaks...;)

Navigator, I do not leak, you leak, remember ?
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I'm good with whatever works and is reliable.
I wouldn't turn down a pin with newer boards and I wouldn't add value because it has them.
Working is working. Nobody ever sees them.

As for the car analogies, i'm a restomod type of guy.
I like to keep the look, but have it run and drive better.
With said, I wouldn't tear into a low mileage original, but imo it's no big deal to do an engine swap on something old, worn, non original with high mileage.
 
I've spend the time stripping the parts off of a Bally rectifier board to replace BRs, fuse holders, etc. It's a PITA to desolder and I'd rather just replace with new PCB and parts. The NVRAM Weebly guy on Pinside sells those bare, as do some others. He also sells a redesigned Bally MPU. I know you 'can' repair some of those easily, get the kit, etc..

My experience has been that the Bally MPUs are often so corroded they're not worth messing with. I got a couple of the repro PCBs that are exactly like the original, populating with new parts. While I prefer original everything in video games, I'm really OK with some replacement boards in pins.
 
Pinball question on a arcade restoration board?

An original clean, working and stable PCB is always more desirable compare to a reproduction.

One could argue the fact that the reproduction will be more stable and that maybe so.

The question of ORG vs REPRO ultimately depends on the collector.

As a collector, if I saw an original clean and working PCB, I would be more impressed compared to seeing a reproduction especially when it is known that the PCB board set is plagued with issues. It makes a working PCB set more rare in my book. Now Rare doesn't make worth more, It just means it is rare.
 
I think it all boils down to how much time you want to spend on things. When you commit to modern boards, they are much less serviceable in most cases, but they also often have more robust components that fail less from over-voltage, negative spikes and direct shorts.

Collectors can stick with originals, but I find non-collectors are much more impressed with new boards.
 
Depends. If I'm giving it to my wife and don't want her stuck on the side of the road and broke down, then yes I'll put in a new engine. It's a piece of metal.

Sometimes you just want something dependable.

And let's be honest. The 63 Corvette has new hoses, new spark plugs, new tires, new lights, etc, etc. Come on, it's not original no matter how hard you try.

You cant really say this because only SOME people would give that car to thier wives to drive.
Not everybody (but that would be very kind of you) .

Ive judged many car shows and ill add this,, unless its all matching numbers its not worth as much .
Also keep in mind alot of cars came off the assembly line "Not perfect"
You have to know the car and the inperfections to look for .. if those are missing (the car was repainted too good or trim refinished too good) we marked points off.
 
There's an old man around here who has a mint 60somethin Camero with a LS7 in it, he did it himself and it's all done right/super clean.

Cool, he has half a camero. Ive seen people do those engine swaps to 50's model chevy's
and i have mixed feelings about it . I mean yeah if you want something to hoon in or cant find the original parts id do it but ive seen people just swap everything and try and enter it
into a car show instead.

My piece of doo doo winterbeater skylark somehow manages to get trophies
at car shows still because i left the original motor, trans , stamped quarters and fenders, doors and glass on it. My only regret was repainting it orange but im painting it again when i get better the original paint code.
 

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I prefer the originals if they're actually clean, but I'd rather have a repro than originals that have acid damage, repaired/working or not.
 
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