Afterburner Triac Board

spigs838

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I need help on my triac board for my afterburner deluxe. I tested the triacs and came up with only one good one. I have replacement triacs, but I also tested the little square black box snubbers or film capacitors. Only one of them tested good also. I have not been able to find them since they are an old Panasonic product. Anything I find has all the same specs as the Panasonic but the original is 120 ohms and the replacements I can only find in 100 or 150 ohms. Does anyone know if either of these would work for this board?????

Thanks
Mike
 
Afterburner

That's for the upright. The triac board board for me is for the deluxe sit down. A completely different board.

Thanks
 
That's for the upright. The triac board board for me is for the deluxe sit down. A completely different board.

Thanks

Oh..well, hopefully, someone will chime in. You also may be able to do an archive search of rec.games.video.arcade.collecting
 
Insufficient information for me to say anything. Got any pics of the PCB or components in question? Part numbers (original and/or the proposed replacements)? Links to datasheets? Details about how you're testing things?
 
Insufficient information for me to say anything. Got any pics of the PCB or components in question? Part numbers (original and/or the proposed replacements)? Links to datasheets? Details about how you're testing things?

made me think of:

"What do you compute, Space Ace?" "Insufficient data at the moment, Starchild"

kissphantom2.jpg
 
afterburner Triac Board

I do know that the Film capacitor that is on the present board is a Panasonic ECQJ0186XB. I tried to attach the data sheet. It is not really made anymore. You need to get like 1000 of them to get it it seems.

thanks
 

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That's not just a capacitor; it's a resistor and a capacitor together in a single package.

What makes you think the one(s) on your board are bad?

Can you tell how/where it is in the circuit? (i.e. is it just across the input 120VAC?)

Sounds to me like this is just a RF interference supressor (to minimize interference caused by the operation of the triacs). If that's the case, it'll be just wired across the line voltage. And it should work fine without it entirely (albeit perhaps cause some RF interference...) It'd also mean I wouldn't fret much about the exact specs, and just use 100ohm or 150ohm or whatever you can get for cheap.
 
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I have the data sheet on the actual part that is on the board. This is the board and the 3black squares are what I am referring to. I can not find the schematic page for this board with the rest of the schematics.

That's not just a capacitor; it's a resistor and a capacitor together in a single package.

What makes you think the one(s) on your board are bad?

Can you tell how/where it is in the circuit? (i.e. is it just across the input 120VAC?)

Sounds to me like this is just a RF interference supressor (to minimize interference caused by the operation of the triacs). If that's the case, it'll be just wired across the line voltage. And it should work fine without it entirely (albeit perhaps cause some RF interference...) It'd also mean I wouldn't fret much about the exact specs, and just use 100ohm or 150ohm or whatever you can get for cheap.
 

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Afterburner

That is rated at a higher voltage. I have found
The right specs except not sure if the ohm
Can be different than 120

Thanks
 
When replacing a capacitor the value of capacitance has to remain the same while the max operating voltage rating can be of a higher value without creating any problems.

According to the datasheet here http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/7032.pdf part number XE1201 is .1uf and 120 ohms.

The one item in question would be the wattage value of the resistor in your original since I don't see a spec for this on the Panasonic datasheet. The XE1201 has a ½ watt resistor and looks to be pretty much the same physical size to the Panasonic one; where as the 1 watt part number looks considerably larger.

In my opinion it would probably be worth your time to consider replacing all four triac's and the snubbers at the same time if possible. Look for any other fatigued parts in this circuit as well since they are 20 plus years old and used for high current motor control.
 
we talked a bit on a belgium forum ;). i have now the same problems. i consider changing everything on the triacs board next month. triacs changed & 5k ohms changed , did worse damage for my afterburner than before (i had up/down movement in test, now the motor overheating directly and breaker (8A) activates. ... i'm stuck too..
 
afterburner

I feel your pain. I know they say to make sure those triacs are not touching at all on the triac board where you soldered them back on. I know it only takes a little bit for them to touch. I am going to replace those snubbers or capacitors. I was also ab lt to find the 4 small TLf chips but have not tried to replace them yet. I am still having an issue finding those "snubbers" I can not seem to find the same ones that have a rating of 120 ohm. Still looking. I have foundthem but I need to order like 1000 of them because most places have that for a minimum order direct from Japan.

I hooked up my boards and it tripped, as soon as I disconnected my small colored wire from the triac board that connects to the drive board, it booted up and I could play the game. Just no movement obviously. I think it has to really do with the traic board. I have two of them but both need to be rebuilt. I am only worried about fixing the board and hooking it up and I blow something else on it again. But I am not sure if it will until I try. As soon as I find the "snubbers" I will let you know when I repair the board.
 
I am still looking for the film capacitors that I can use on this board. I know some people have sent me some info, but all of them seem to be a single VAC rating of 250 or higher. The one on the board has it printed with 125/250. Not sure if I can go any different on that. Any help would be appreciated. I just need to find these if anyone has any ideas. The part is in a pic in this thread if anyone is wondering and you can see the information on it.

thanks
Mike
 
so after changing all the resistors. i have a direct short-circuit.. 2 triacs died from the last attempt. so weirddddd and desperate that machine makes me feel..

without the triacs board all is going ok. but with it (except tlp511ga that i will change next month, hard to get them !), i cant figure what's wrong. some voltage? some driveboard ? some fate ? ahahah.....
 
I am having the same problem as well. I also need the values for the resistors on the triac board. All of mine are unreadable and I have looked everywhere I know for a schematic or data sheet. Any help with it would be much appreciated.
 
Can you remove one of your resistors and test it? It may be fine. If it's similar to a known available value for instance, you might test it and it's 4.69k so you'd know that's probably a 4.7k resistor and is fine.
 
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