Afterburner Help

toro1966

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Hey guys - just picked up an AB UR. Can is in pretty good shape and is complete, but it does have some issues. I was hoping I could have one of you gurus help me out. Specifics:
- Warning lights up top do not flash - they just stay on all the time.
- Shaker motor wires are cut. Just have the red and black wire hanging from the motor. I have no idea, however, where to try and connect them back up.
- Have a molex with blue and green wires hanging down inside - no idea what it goes to or if it is important
- Found some kind of switch that looks like it came off of one of the boards. It was sitting in the bottom of the cabinet loose. Might not go to anything at all, but can't imagine why it would be there. Also the board is an AB II boardset in the cage.
- Missing the shaker motor fuse connection - anyone know where to find one?

Pics are below. Thanks in advance for any help! All the best,
Ray
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http://dweeb.net/afterburner/

This should help you with the light issue.

Replace the whole fuse holder assembly with a replacement from an autoparts store. Although, with that fuse disabled, and the wiring cut, there may be an issue with the shaker motor itself.
 
Thanks. I have a NOS shaker motor complete with connector. Ordered a new fuse holder from Bob. I just can't figure out where to plug the motor in...

Could someone take s pic for me? Thanks!
 
Are you sure the power comes from the board? I think the board is what tells the system when/how to shake. My issue is that there are two wires coming off of the shaker motor and they are cut so I don't have any idea where to connect them. Normally I would look for the other side of the cut wire to see if I could find a match, no such luck. I have searched hi and lo and can't find out where this is connected.
I am hoping that someone with one might be able to take a picture of where it's connected or direct me to the right spot.
 
Yes.

I looked at the wiring diagram in the back of the Afterburner manual. That, and, I have an OutRun which has a nearly identical setup for the steering wheel shaker.

Power comes from the transformer, one leg goes thru the fuse you're missing, then it and the other leg go thru the bridge recitifier to turn it to DC. After that it's filtered by a large electrolytic cap. From there, power goes to the solid-state relay PCB. Said PCB, upon recieving a signal from the main game PCB, "connects" the DC power that comes into it to the motor.

Here's the manual. Take a look for yourself: http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arca.../After Burner Owner's Manual (420-5798-0).pdf
 
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Thanks man. I appreciate it. I am still wayy new to reading those things and to be truthful, it still looks like Greek. I'll take another look tomorrow and see if I can't see anything new. Again, I really do appreciate your time.
 
I am still wayy new to reading those things and to be truthful, it still looks like Greek.

OK. I'll tranlate the Greek for you. Start near the top-left corner of the wiring diagram. The thing with the heavy-black lines is the transformer. On the right side of the transformer (the "secondaries"), there are 3 heavy black lines. Loiok at the middle one, that's the secondary that provides power to the motor. Note there are two "blocks" labeling each of the lines that come away from the transformer; one "60L" the other "30L". Those are Sega's wiring codes. "60L" means a large gauge maroon wire with no stripe; "30L" means a large gauge yellow wire with no stripe. Notice that the 30L (yellow) wire goes straight to a diamond shaped thing. The diamon shaped thing is a symbol for a bridge rectifier. The two corners with "~" are the AC input to the bridge, and the "+" and "-" corners are the DC output. Note that the top ~ corner is not connected directly to the "60L" (maroon) wire. Instead the 60L goes way off, through a couple of connectors, then a fuse (this is the one you're missing, it's a 2A by the way), and comes back on a wire coded as "50L" (a large gauge white wire with no stripe). It's also worth noting that the diagram tells us that both connectors between the rectifier and the fuse should be YELLOW connector housings. Getting back to the action... The other two corners of the bridge recitifier (the + & -) have wires coming off of them coded "20L" (blue, large, no stripe) and "70L" (orange, large, no stripe). These go first to a 4700uF capacitor. You should see a can looking thing with 2 connections on top mounted in the bottom of the cab; that's this cap. The two wires connected to it should then go to the motor SSR board. Note that the motor's SSR board is different from the other two SSR boards (for the lamps), in that it is designed to switch DC voltage, whereas the lamp SSR boards are for AC voltage. You can see in the diagram that they are different part numbers, as well: The motor SSR PCB is 839-0048, the lamp SSRs are 839-0051. So, the two wires (blue & orange) go into pins 1 & 5 of the 6-pin connector on the SSR board. There's also a 2-pin connector on that board, it's connected to the game board, and this is where it recieves a signal from the game to shake. And when it does, the SSR board connects the power through to its output pins 2 & 3. The codes on those wires are 20L & 40L; blue & green, no stripes. These wires then went thru a 2-position connector (white in color), and then another 2-position connector (at the control panel, also white), before arriving at the motor itself.

That's the kinda stuff that can be gleaned from a wiring diagram.
 
OK. I'll tranlate the Greek for you. Start near the top-left corner of the wiring diagram. The thing with the heavy-black lines is the transformer. On the right side of the transformer (the "secondaries"), there are 3 heavy black lines. Loiok at the middle one, that's the secondary that provides power to the motor. Note there are two "blocks" labeling each of the lines that come away from the transformer; one "60L" the other "30L". Those are Sega's wiring codes. "60L" means a large gauge maroon wire with no stripe; "30L" means a large gauge yellow wire with no stripe. Notice that the 30L (yellow) wire goes straight to a diamond shaped thing. The diamon shaped thing is a symbol for a bridge rectifier. The two corners with "~" are the AC input to the bridge, and the "+" and "-" corners are the DC output. Note that the top ~ corner is not connected directly to the "60L" (maroon) wire. Instead the 60L goes way off, through a couple of connectors, then a fuse (this is the one you're missing, it's a 2A by the way), and comes back on a wire coded as "50L" (a large gauge white wire with no stripe). It's also worth noting that the diagram tells us that both connectors between the rectifier and the fuse should be YELLOW connector housings. Getting back to the action... The other two corners of the bridge recitifier (the + & -) have wires coming off of them coded "20L" (blue, large, no stripe) and "70L" (orange, large, no stripe). These go first to a 4700uF capacitor. You should see a can looking thing with 2 connections on top mounted in the bottom of the cab; that's this cap. The two wires connected to it should then go to the motor SSR board. Note that the motor's SSR board is different from the other two SSR boards (for the lamps), in that it is designed to switch DC voltage, whereas the lamp SSR boards are for AC voltage. You can see in the diagram that they are different part numbers, as well: The motor SSR PCB is 839-0048, the lamp SSRs are 839-0051. So, the two wires (blue & orange) go into pins 1 & 5 of the 6-pin connector on the SSR board. There's also a 2-pin connector on that board, it's connected to the game board, and this is where it recieves a signal from the game to shake. And when it does, the SSR board connects the power through to its output pins 2 & 3. The codes on those wires are 20L & 40L; blue & green, no stripes. These wires then went thru a 2-position connector (white in color), and then another 2-position connector (at the control panel, also white), before arriving at the motor itself.

That's the kinda stuff that can be gleaned from a wiring diagram.


Awesome! Thanks Darren. I'll plan on hitting the diagrams heavy this weekend and see what i can find out. This should be fun :) Thanks again for all of your time.
 
That explains a lot... is there a guide somewhere that says what codes mean what colors?

Yeah... in a .txt file on my thumb drive :)

Sega Wiring Color/Size Codes
----------------------------
1st digit: main color
2nd digit: stripe color (if no stripe, it may be omitted or may be 0)
3rd digit: wire size (may be 2nd digit if the stripe digit is omitted)

0 = NO STRIPE (as 2nd digit)
1 = RED
2 = BLUE
3 = YELLOW
4 = GREEN
5 = WHITE
6 = MAROON
7 = ORANGE
8 = BLACK
9 = GRAY
A = PINK
B = LT BLUE
C = BROWN
D = PURPLE
E = LT GREEN

S = small gauge wire
L = large gauge wire
J = jumper wire
 
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Darren - having one more issue. I am having a very hard time reading the diagram. Not understanding it...physically reading it - the picture is horrible. I have the two wires blue/green that go to the female molex and then to the male end of the molex at the motor side. Problem is that the motor has two wires (not connected in the molex yet because they were cut) that are black and red. Which one, black or red, goes with each of the blue/green? I don't want to hook it up backwards. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
 
Darren - having one more issue. I am having a very hard time reading the diagram. Not understanding it...physically reading it - the picture is horrible. I have the two wires blue/green that go to the female molex and then to the male end of the molex at the motor side. Problem is that the motor has two wires (not connected in the molex yet because they were cut) that are black and red. Which one, black or red, goes with each of the blue/green? I don't want to hook it up backwards. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

Doesn't matter. With a DC motor, reverse polarity will just make the motor rotate the opposite direction. For a shaker motor, it doesn't really make a difference which direction it rotates.
 
Doesn't matter. With a DC motor, reverse polarity will just make the motor rotate the opposite direction. For a shaker motor, it doesn't really make a difference which direction it rotates.
If you hook it up backward, I think it will leave the handle still and shake rest of the machine. Could be dangerous :D
 
OK - got it hooked up and have a couple of more questions. Hook up took much longer than expected. There was a bad pot for the up and down and I had wired the fire/missile buttons incorrectly. Actually - I re-wired them exactly where they were when I got the game but it was of course wrong. They didn't work then, but now they are working great.


The two questions I have are:
Why won't the motor work in test mode? All other things seem to work fine, and the motor works fine in game mode just as it should. But I should be able to get it moving in test mode. It doesn't...Any thoughts as to why?

On the left hand side of the inside of the CP, there is an "extra" two wire molex. I say extra, because I have no idea where it goes. It has a male end attached to it with a cut blue and green wire - but that really doesn't mean anything as when I got this, the CP had obviously had some "work" done to it. Again, as far as I can tell, the game functions as it should, but I am not used to having "extra" connections. Any chance this extra connection went to the deluxe model and this UR just has the same harness in it?

 
if the shaker wont work in test, could be a dip setting or the bord has some small issue.
Either way, if it works fine during gameplay i would not mess with it.

the second pigtail, who knows??? my ab has a non working shaker and i also have some spare connectors up there by the cp. id unplug the cut piece (but save it) that way hatever it is, it cant short out.

Looks to me like your game (at least the cp) was put togther from at least two different afterburners. That would explain bonus pigtails and missing connectors
 
The two questions I have are:
Why won't the motor work in test mode? All other things seem to work fine, and the motor works fine in game mode just as it should. But I should be able to get it moving in test mode. It doesn't...Any thoughts as to why?

On the left hand side of the inside of the CP, there is an "extra" two wire molex. I say extra, because I have no idea where it goes. It has a male end attached to it with a cut blue and green wire - but that really doesn't mean anything as when I got this, the CP had obviously had some "work" done to it. Again, as far as I can tell, the game functions as it should, but I am not used to having "extra" connections. Any chance this extra connection went to the deluxe model and this UR just has the same harness in it?

I don't know much about AB test mode, but in OutRun (which has a lot of similarities, FWIW), the shaker motor doesn't operate in test mode either. In OR, "motor" refers to the motion motor in the sit-down unit--not to the shaker motor on the CP. It would take an AB owner to say if theirs will operate the shaker motor in test mode...

As far as the extra wires... I'd say trace them back in the un-cut direction to see where they connect... if at all. That should help shed light on what the might have done.
 
ill be damned....

after looking at your pic there.. the unused connector ont he left looked familiar. THIS HAS BEEN WHERE IVE BEEN PLUGGING IN MY NON WORKING SHAKER!!!

so with the cp still in, i felt around the right side and found a hudden pigtail.. SOB.

Plugged the motor into it, and TADA, my shaker works now. Its weak( like worn bushings) but it works!!!! sweet!!!!!!!

I have a minor graphics issue but i can live with it now. I always thought the shaker issue was in the pcbs as i had already tested the power supply and fuses, swapped relay boards, motors, etc...

(**how the hell do i get this cp apart?? It looks like theres 2 nuts under the frt you take off, but the bolts just spin... mabye take off the three nuts inside the machine that bolt the joystick assy to the cab???edit those spin too.. wtf???? **)
 
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