Afterburner deluxe cabinet voltage issues

spigs838

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I need some help with my afterburner cockpit. I put a different triac board in and it seems to try and start up but starts to hum aclittle like it is trying to move the motors and then trips the main breaker. I unhooked both motors and started it up and went into test mode. I reconnected the motors and then tried to test the motor. It starts to hum again and makes the screen flicker likes it is drawing a lot of power. If I were to keep the trigger pulled in test I think it would trip something or possibly damage something. It just seems like it is drawing a lot of power. Any ideas. Please help. I want the movement in this working. I am going nuts!!!
 
I need some help with my afterburner cockpit. I put a different triac board in and it seems to try and start up but starts to hum aclittle like it is trying to move the motors and then trips the main breaker. I unhooked both motors and started it up and went into test mode. I reconnected the motors and then tried to test the motor. It starts to hum again and makes the screen flicker likes it is drawing a lot of power. If I were to keep the trigger pulled in test I think it would trip something or possibly damage something. It just seems like it is drawing a lot of power. Any ideas. Please help. I want the movement in this working. I am going nuts!!!

Short answer would be to check the motors to make sure they are not jammed or can freely move. Make certain there is nothing jamming the gears or something. The motor could be bad also. I would test the motors from an external power supply with some circuit breaker. The motor sounds like it is trying to move something it can't and would look at what it is supposed to move and why the motor can't.
 
Afterburner

Does anyone know also what the voltages are suppose to be out of the power supply and where can you adjust this one if needed?
 
As kb0jjn stated I would first physically check the motors.

Then I would check the other rollers used to support the cockpit operation so that you know it moves freely. I had two of them on my game where the rubber had deteriorated and fallen apart after a couple of years.

When I first got my deluxe model I found that every time the motors would operate all of the lights in the room would dim.

Not wanting to accept my friends simple suggestion of me being too fat to play the game I did some additional troubleshooting. I know that I remember replacing Triacs and snubbers used to drive the motors, but since this was ten plus years ago (and the game has been traded away) I can't tell if I replace anything else.
 
I only play a professional electronics technician on television so all info offered here is to be used at your own risk.

The triacs are used for controlling the motors and their direction of operation. The driver board is separate from the game board and is number 9 on page 61 of the manual (this seems to jibe with my memory too). Part of the triac circuit will have snubbers that will look like the black ones found in the photo next to "RC snubbers" section http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snubber

Also according to the manual the motors are 80 VDC but depending on the game's design you may not actually read 80 volts when testing.

Page 15 shows the location of brushes on each motor.

If I may offer a suggestion, it would be to start from the beginning here and do the following before getting into board repair.

1. Obtain a copy of the manual for the game from here http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=6821 Make sure to get the deluxe version too.

2. I would remove tension form the drive wheels for the cockpit. Now try moving the cockpit by hand to see how hard it is to move forward, backward, back and forth. If the cockpit is stuck or hard to move do to worn-out guide rollers this will cause high current flow and a possibly trip the breaker too.

3. Now check the brushes on the motors to make sure that they are not damaged or worn out.

4. Next there should be a little plastic Molex type connector near each motor, disconnect both of them. Now take a digital volt meter set to DC and boot the game again. Check for voltage during the motor warm up test. You should read either a positive or negative reading and then the opposite a few seconds later without moving your meter leads. Repeat the step for the other motor too.

If you're this far you will probably be fixing the driver board. Even if one motor drive circuit works and the other doesn't I would still rebuild both of them. I would also highly recommend you enlist the help of a friend who might have some experience with troubleshooting electronics at this point, both to save dollars and possibly preventing damage to a less than common board.
 
Afterburner motors

Anyone know how to test the 80 VDC MOTORS on this when they are out? Also how to determine if the gear box anD wheel is working properly when you test them. Not sure how to test the motors themselves???

Thanks
 
I just sent a reply to your private message too...

Did you test the output of the driver board at the connecters to see if they are getting voltage?

If you want to test the motors outside of the game I would find a friend who has a bench style, or otherwise, DC power supply to test the motors (and I would guess you don't actually need 80 volts to test). Something definitely more substantial than a little cell phone charger will obviously be required though.

They are low speed DC gear motors so I doubt that they are going to be bad from operation if the brushes look good and are not worn out or show signs of damage.

In my opinion it would also be a little too coincidental that they are both bad as well.

You could try using a meter set to ohms to check them too. Depending of if you can turn the motor's shaft by hand while testing, I believe your ohms value should change from near zero ohms (or a short) to infinite (an open) and then back again repeatedly while turning it. I'm positive these were sealed motors but I don't remember if there was any access to the shaft or if the motor separates from the gear easily. I seem to remember the back one did have gearlube in it though, so this may not be an option.

Beside testing for output from the driver board, did you try having the game operate them while their pressure from driving the cockpit is removed (no load on the motor)?

As far as the cockpit is concerned if you can move it back and forth with your hands and it rolls smoothly I think everything's ok there. I don't remember working on side to side movement for mine but you will most likely have bearings in the front and back of the frame which supports the seat and allows the side to side movement. As with the motors the operation of the machine is low speed and I would find it hard to believe the bearings are bad to the point they can't be moved (other than if the game has been exposed the outside elements and they have seized from corrosion).

At this point you may need someone to assist in troubleshooting and repair of your driver board.

Good luck,
Dave
 
80vdc motors.. hmm..

maybe 2-3 car batteries. Wire them in series i think three in series thats 36 volts that ought to get you enough juice to get your motors moving.
 
If they are dc or permanent magnet, you can usually turn them and they will produce electricity but it might be more simple to use a meter. I use 36 volt motors for my windmill that produces a bright light when there is a large windstorm. It would be more better if you test the original supply for the motors and make certain that is working first then test the motors with that working supply. I would say there is something jamming the motors or gears causing the issue you are having.

Can you move the motor (by hand) easily and freely.
 
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