Advice Given: Getting playfields Restored and Clearcoated

metahugh

Active member
Joined
Jun 10, 2004
Messages
6,127
Reaction score
20
Location
Michigan
Advice Given: Getting playfields Restored and Clearcoated

As with everything in pinball there comes a lesson. Sometimes the lessons are easy and sometimes they are hard. I had my Twilight Zone playfield restored and I wasn't totally happy with how it came out. I was actually unhappy enough to consider waiting to put my game back together until a reproduction playfield comes out. Of course waiting for a product that is not confirmed is a hard thing to do not to mention risky.

I've had my TZ for 10 months now so I definitely want to get it back together. I have spoken to a few of my friends trying to solicit opinions on what I should do with my TZ and the initial thought was to just install the playfield. Although this was something to consider I just couldn't pull the trigger. I have been very lucky that I have met and befriended quite a few super nice people in pinball, one of which specializes in restoring games, Chris Hutchins of High End Pins. I mentioned my TZ dilemma to Chris. He took pity on me (and my TZ playfield) and took on the task of refinishing my playfield. Here is where the lessons come in:

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album157?page=1

Initially I was happy with the clearcoat on my playfield but once you go through the album above you get to see a few issues that you can find with restored playfields. This is the first playfield that I have sent out for restoration and definitely not the last but at least I can come from this experience with much more knowledge than I had before. I am sharing this with everyone because asking the right questions in the beginning will save you a lot of heartache and hopefully my experience will help others. I have learned that there are a few questions that you have to ask before choosing a playfield restorer:

1. How do you perform touchups? Hand Painted or Sprayed?
2. How many coats of clearcoat do you apply?
3. How do you prep the playfield prior to laying down clearcoat?

I don't have all of the correct answers but here are my opinions:

Question #1. How do you perform touchups? Hand Painted or Sprayed?

This question is important because depending on the area being touched up painting by hand can be undesirable. There were a few spots on my playfield that were touched up by hand that didn't come out looking very good like the dark blue area underneath the left spiral.

Question #2. How many coats of clearcoat do you apply?

Having way too thick of a clearcoat will cause all sorts of installation and playability problems. The clearcoat on my playfield was so thick that the spots where the ramp landings are were almost completely filled. You have to have those ramp cutouts for the ramps to "flow" properly. I am not sure what the ideal number of coats are but ultimately the clearcoat should not be super thick.

Question #3. How do you prep the playfield prior to laying down clearcoat?

My playfield did not have the guide holes sanded down and ultimately a lot of dirt was caught and clearcoated over. It doesn't take much effort to sand these areas down.

I hope this information helps someone. I do not regret the process because in the end I learned a lot. Anyone else that has had experience with getting playfields restored please contribute what you have learned to this post with a comment.
 
Live and learn, I guess.

I'm ultra paranoid about spending the money to have a high end restoration done, but I'd love to do it to my TZ and my IJ some day. With the new playfields coming out for Bride of Pinbot, I'm also thinking that I want that cleared, but that I'll handle the rest of the restore process myself. Really I'm confident in doing it all except for the playfield clearcoating, which obviously would have the biggest impact on how the game plays.
 
Wow - seriously just wow. I'm so not a schooled person when it comes to pins but having each picture actually point out the flaw is awesome. That clear coat was a mile thick! Congrats - your work is truly amazing.
 
Wow - seriously just wow. I'm so not a schooled person when it comes to pins but having each picture actually point out the flaw is awesome. That clear coat was a mile thick! Congrats - your work is truly amazing.

And BTW I didn't do the work myself, it takes a lot of experience and knowledge to do this type of work. Chris is the best in the industry period, I am super lucky that he helped me out.

I like to do everything but the playfield restoration on these high end games.
 
Wow! Chris's work is AMAZING! I couldn't even imagine being that much of a stickler to detail. I got pretty lazy during my pin restoration. I didn't sand down the shooter lane, or clean out the holes.

Of course, my game wasn't a TZ either. :D
 
As with everything in pinball there comes a lesson. Sometimes the lessons are easy and sometimes they are hard. I had my Twilight Zone playfield restored and I wasn't totally happy with how it came out. I was actually unhappy enough to consider waiting to put my game back together until a reproduction playfield comes out. Of course waiting for a product that is not confirmed is a hard thing to do not to mention risky.

I've had my TZ for 10 months now so I definitely want to get it back together. I have spoken to a few of my friends trying to solicit opinions on what I should do with my TZ and the initial thought was to just install the playfield. Although this was something to consider I just couldn't pull the trigger. I have been very lucky that I have met and befriended quite a few super nice people in pinball, one of which specializes in restoring games, Chris Hutchins of High End Pins. I mentioned my TZ dilemma to Chris. He took pity on me (and my TZ playfield) and took on the task of refinishing my playfield. Here is where the lessons come in:

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album157?page=1

Initially I was happy with the clearcoat on my playfield but once you go through the album above you get to see a few issues that you can find with restored playfields. This is the first playfield that I have sent out for restoration and definitely not the last but at least I can come from this experience with much more knowledge than I had before. I am sharing this with everyone because asking the right questions in the beginning will save you a lot of heartache and hopefully my experience will help others. I have learned that there are a few questions that you have to ask before choosing a playfield restorer:

1. How do you perform touchups? Hand Painted or Sprayed?
2. How many coats of clearcoat do you apply?
3. How do you prep the playfield prior to laying down clearcoat?

I don't have all of the correct answers but here are my opinions:

Question #1. How do you perform touchups? Hand Painted or Sprayed?

This question is important because depending on the area being touched up painting by hand can be undesirable. There were a few spots on my playfield that were touched up by hand that didn't come out looking very good like the dark blue area underneath the left spiral.

Question #2. How many coats of clearcoat do you apply?

Having way too thick of a clearcoat will cause all sorts of installation and playability problems. The clearcoat on my playfield was so thick that the spots where the ramp landings are were almost completely filled. You have to have those ramp cutouts for the ramps to "flow" properly. I am not sure what the ideal number of coats are but ultimately the clearcoat should not be super thick.

Question #3. How do you prep the playfield prior to laying down clearcoat?

My playfield did not have the guide holes sanded down and ultimately a lot of dirt was caught and clearcoated over. It doesn't take much effort to sand these areas down.

I hope this information helps someone. I do not regret the process because in the end I learned a lot. Anyone else that has had experience with getting playfields restored please contribute what you have learned to this post with a comment.

A couple of questions....

Who did the original restore?

What did it cost to have the restore done, and what work was needed for the original restore other than the clear?

If you are not comfortable posting in public, a PM would be cool.

I am not looking to bash this person, there are just a lot of different PF restorers popping up out there and it would be good for people to know the details of what they are getting...

Looking at the work, you can rule out PFR and Bill Davis (probably)... But that leaves a few others out there like NEO, Karl in Arizona, HSA Pinball, and a couple of more I can't think of off the top of my head. I have my guess as to whose work this is based on the pics, but would like a little more info if you wouldn't mind...

Chris' work is second to none, but obviously he doesn't really do PFs anymore for people...

Looks great!
 
Who did the original restore?

I can tell you via PM. The only reason I do not post who it is in this thread is because I don't want this to bash the original restorer like you. The weird thing is I have seen other work by the original restorer and they didn't have the issues mine had. My mini playfield had the exact same issues.

What did it cost to have the restore done, and what work was needed for the original restore other than the clear?

Initially I paid $500 including shipping both ways to get both my main and mini refinished. I paid more than that for Chris to finish mine but it is worth every penny.

Chris' work is second to none, but obviously he doesn't really do PFs anymore for people...

Looks great!

THAT is why I feel so lucky :)
 
I don't have a pin, I suck at pins, I don't plan to own a pin- BUT MAN!!! That dude is a freakin' miracle worker!!! It was interesting to view all of those photos. Excellent work!!! Just amazing!
 
You forgot lesson #4. Your playfield will get beat up and dimpled to hell once it's installed and you actually play the game. So if you want perfection for this game, you should sell it before you play it.

Wade
 
You forgot lesson #4. Your playfield will get beat up and dimpled to hell once it's installed and you actually play the game. So if you want perfection for this game, you should sell it before you play it.

Wade

Ho hum Wade... I guess you just don't get it :)
 
I think everyone's experience is different. I have a friend with a few clearcoated games with hundreds of plays and they are not "dimpled to hell".

Shardian, did you get a playfield clearcoated? Maybe you could share some pictures of the dimples? That would be good to have in this thread. Stripping down a playfield and getting it redone is not for everyone. For me it was a no brainer, my playfield looked like this before:

http://www.metahugh.com/arcade/pinball/TZ/restoration/pf_before/image2.html

That was worth fixing. Yes every playfield is going to dimple, that is a fact. But Wade makes it sound like that after you play the game once the playfield will be super nasty. That is simply not the case.
 
I clearcoated it myself from the can - not an automotive clear. It did look horrible after one play, and I was PISSED. After 100 plays though, it looks perfectly fine.
 
I clearcoated it myself from the can - not an automotive clear. It did look horrible after one play, and I was PISSED. After 100 plays though, it looks perfectly fine.

Automotive clear is definitely the hardest clear you can install. I know it is going to dimple, that's fine. That's why it is important to find out how many layers of clear a restorer lays down. If it is too thick it will get more dimples and could crack. I will be sure to post a follow up after I have put a good 500-1000 games on my TZ.
 
clearcoating is easy just the prep takes forever. i use an DUPONT product and i love it. i have to wear a mask and glasses so i dont get the isocyanate gas in my lungs or on my eyes.
the tough part is SANDING the playfield before applying the clear. it kida goes against your better judgement but when the clear reacts with the surface, the scratches go away and it looks AMAZING. the problem is the black sharpie pen(and some/few other touch-up colors) color reacts with the clear and you can get wisps in the clear, but its not too bad if you do get them. just be happy cause theres nothing you can do anyway.

whatever is left over i spray onto my van just to see how long a batch lasts and if i got the mixture right/off.

i took a ball and dropped it from a foot onto the hardened surface and no dimple !

i like installing corks, toothpicks and custom covers for the lane switches,etc. so you dont get the clear down into the holes buggering up whatevers down there.

i'm a fan of GOTTLIEB system 1 pins and have clearcoated about a half a dozen playfields so far. heres an example of a SINBAD i did last summer. if you look close you can see where the black sharpie reacted with the clear...

i bought one of those paint can clearcoats for a backglass i wanted to preserve and it smelled the same. just be careful as some of those paint can clears arent clear and some are, so test on something before you ruin something. also, i took the paint can clear and sprayed a blop on a piece of cardboard and took a small paintbrush and fixed some errors/wearmarks and it came out invisible.
 

Attachments

  • sinbad 004.jpg
    sinbad 004.jpg
    93.8 KB · Views: 28
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom